2006 AZ Straight Pool Challenge

PoolSharkAllen said:
Willie,
What's this 3 phase, 6 week program that you're in? Are there any tips on practicing that you can share with us? :)

Shark-man,
Well, I will post this info; but ONLY because you asked. I am not promoting any "miracle cure" regimens; but I can tell you what I've been doing. The program was set up for me (loosely) by Mark Wilson (4 visits over about 2 years). Each area is designed to improve a perceived area of my weakness, may not be suitable for everyone. In addition, there are a LOT of guidelines for each of these drills that I am not posting, that are specific so that the drill will reinforce the stroke principles that he teaches.

The initial work was on developing a consistent stroke - ultra-precise, ultra-repeatable, pressure resistant. This took me about a year working on little else other than the "Power Stroke" drills (I have detailed them several other places here on the forum). At the end of that time, he thought that my best stroke was good enough (if I could just repeat it every time).

Once I developed an understanding of the mechanics necessary for an ultra-precise stroke; I found that I still would miss makeable balls on occasion; and still could not run more than 30 or 40 in straight pool without missing. It was then necessary for Mark to set up a program to help develop the necessary "mental toughness" and focus necessary to keep a consistent stroke going long enough to run a significant number of balls. In addition he added a number of drills to start me working on some of the finer points of pool like breaking/caroms/kicking/defense (which I had totally neglected in my single-minded drive to develop a decent stroke). This is the 3 phase program I mentioned. Here it is:

Phase 1 – The main thing is to deliver your absolute best stroke mechanics on EVERY shot in the drill. There is little point to this workout if you do not already have a “perfect stroke” that you are trying to groove – the objective is to deliver this stroke perfectly for longer and longer periods of time. Do these 5 exercises every day for 14 days ( I am actually doubling this to 28 days, with the approval of the instructor). This phase takes close to 2 hours to complete if you are diligent in your setup and analysis.

#1 - 10 power breaks; 1 point for each ball made, 1 point each time the cue ball rests in the middle zone of the table (one diamond on either side of the side pockets.

#2 – 10 lags. Shoot from foot spot to center of head rail, back to foot rail; 1 point for each time the cue ball passes directly over the foot spot (dead center). This is the Steve Davis drill (he likes it).

#3 – Break 10 full racks. Take ball in hand each time and try to run the entire rack without missing. Your score is the number of balls you make each time (max = 150 for the 10 racks) before missing. You can’t run balls in straight pool without the mental and physical consistency necessary to run balls in this drill.

#4 – 10 rail shots. Place cue ball on the foot spot. Freeze an object ball to the rail, one diamond past the side pocket, shoot 5 cutting to your right, then 5 from the other side, cutting to your left; 1 point for each ball made (if you delivered a perfect stroke – be honest).

#5 – 10 position shots. Put an 8 ½ x 11 piece of paper in the center of the table (long axis towards the side pockets). Object ball on the foot spot, cue ball near the paper (on a line between the side pockets) so you have about a 45 degree cut on the object ball. Pocket the object ball, and bring the cue ball 2 rails back onto the paper – USING NO SIDE ENGLISH, striking the cueball on the vertical axis (ie. using forward stun to achieve the position). Shoot 5 on each side, one point for landing the cue ball on the paper (you must also pocket the object ball successfully, but no extra points for that).

Phase 2 – This phase is done daily for 3 weeks.

#1 – 10 lags. This time with 3 rails of speed, start at foot spot, shoot to head rail to foot rail back to freeze on head rail. One point for every one that passes back directly over the foot spot.

#2 – 30 straight shots. Shoot cue ball directly into a far corner pocket. Set up a “gauntlet” of 2 balls about a diamond and a half away from the target pocket; the space between the 2 gauntlet balls is 2 3/4 inches (room for the cue ball plus an extra ½ inch). Shoot 10 with center ball, 10 with extreme draw, and 10 with extreme follow. One point for each shot made without touching a “gauntlet ball”.

#3 – 10 “Stun off the rail” shots. Set cueball at the 2nd diamond of a long rail, set the cue ball ¼ to ½ inch off the rail. You will be shooting a straight in shot at the corner pocket on the same end of the table, object ball about halfway between the cue ball and the corner pocket. Now elevate the cue and deliver a stop shot one point for every success (no draw or follow, cue ball must stop and object ball must drop).

#4 – 150 bank shots. Scatter all 15 balls (away from the pockets). Now bank all 15 in (ball in hand for EVERY shot). Do 10 racks, just keep track of your “high run” (most made in a row without missing) for each 10 rack session.

#5 – Eye motion/setup exercise – Cue ball on head spot, object ball at the far end, near a corner pocket (at the intersection of the first diamonds away from that corner pocket). Go through your pre-shot routine, get down to the ball, then examine the cueball & object ball to see if you are lined up properly. NO PRACTICE SWINGS. If you do not feel alignment is correct, then stand up and start over. Keep repeating until you succeed in getting down in perfect alignment. Once that is achieved, then move your eyes back and forth from cue ball to object ball confirming alignment (again, NO PRACTICE SWINGS). With eyes on cue ball start your backswing as you simultaneously move your eyes to focus on the object ball. Main goals are to make the eye movement routine part of your swing routine, and to standardize the rhythm of these. Also to improve your ability to "step into the shot" and set up properly and EXACTLY without a lot of adjustment once you are down (in this drill there is NO adjustment or practice swings when down, you've got to get it right as you move into the stance).

Phase 3 – Daily for 1 week

#1 – Billiard exercise. Place 2 object balls close together, cue ball in hand. Make cue ball contact both balls. If a ball goes into a pocket, spot it. Play 10 minutes, keep track of your high run. Study Daly’s billiard book before starting; to learn the subtleties of driving, gathering, and nursing.

#2 – Rotation. Full rack. Power break. Ball in hand. Play a set of 10 racks. A rack is over when you fail to pocket a ball. Record the number of balls pocketed each rack.

#3 – Object ball position drill. Put cue ball in center of table, object ball frozen on the short rail just to one side of center. Place a piece of paper (8 ½ x 11) along the long rail at the 2nd diamond. Take 10 shots at driving the object ball to come to rest on the piece of paper. One point for each success (object ball resting on paper). Now do 10 more, this time sideways; cue ball and object ball lined up at about the 2nd diamond on the long rail with the target at the center of the short rail. Give yourself a slight angle.

#4 – Kick caroms. Place 2 object balls close together. Now take cue ball in hand, kick to a rail, and hit both object balls after the cue ball hits a rail. Accept balls where they lie and try again. Cue ball must always touch a rail first, then must hit both object balls to be a success. When you miss, re-set the 2 object balls close together and try again. Play for 10 minutes, note your high run (3 is very, very, very good).

#5 – Nomination drill. Full rack. Power break. Now you may pocket any ball, but you MUST declare your next ball before shooting each shot (and you MUST subsequently shoot at the one you declared no matter how hideously you missed shape). Do 10 racks. Your rack ends when you fail to make a ball.

P.S. - I have several "straight pool drills" that I do daily during 14.1 league season that are specific to the game and only take about 15 minutes to complete.
 
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Willie,
Although I can usually polish off a rack of balls, I'm finding that I too have difficulty with the ultra-high precision pattern play required for finishing out the rack and setting up the cue ball and break shot for the next rack.

Another weakness that I've noticed is that on my secondary break shots, the cue ball sometimes gets entangled with other balls so that I don't have a good follow-up shot. Are there any drills or comments on improving my percentages on secondary break shots? Perhaps this is a matter of recognizing when to go for it or not go for it? Or maybe I need to hit the cue ball harder so that the CB spreads the balls more?

I do appreciate your taking the time to document the drills you're working on. I'm looking forward to trying them out tomorrow when I practice again. :)

Allen
 
One of the the things I learned from John Schmidt's DVD about the break was, leave a fairly big angle on your last (break) ball, hit it with top spin and whack that ball in confidently. You need to make it an easy game, secondary breaks should be about breaking up clusters of two and three balls mainly, not five and six balls requiring power shots. Anyway, I can't go telling all of his secrets, you'll need to buy it yourself for that.

gr. Dave
 
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Williebetmore said:
P.S. - I have several "straight pool drills" that I do daily during 14.1 league season that are specific to the game and only take about 15 minutes to complete.


Care to share?
 
skins said:
126 and out (to 150) in a tournament in chi-town 1991. was asked to setup balls on a different table after the event was over (as close as i could remember them) continued the run and ran another 53.

Nice. It's always very rewarding to run out the set, no matter what the break was.

Solartje: If you feel a psychological barrier with break ball, set up those ordinary break shots (with enough angle) and shoot them in without the rack from both sides with concentration on being relaxed and accurate. Don't try to force the cueball, many times just a regular stun-speed is required to break the rack open. Then after you have shot like 10-20 shots from both sides, put the 14.1 rack there and keep shooting exactly the way you shot without the rack. Without the intimidation factor of the visible rack, you should became the master of that shot and start getting some good things into your mechanics. If the angle is correct, you don't need to worry about hitting the rack. Just make sure you make the break ball.

Double-Dave has a very good point. Leaving enough angle is a major aspect in successful straight pool, I cannot remember the number of times when I've missed the break ball because I needed to force the pack open with too little angle.
 
Double-Dave said:
One of the the things I learned from John Schmidt's DVD about the break was, leave a fairly big angle on your last (break) ball, hit it with top spin and whack that ball in confidently. You need to make it an easy game, secondary breaks should be about breaking up clusters of two and three balls mainly, not five and six balls requiring power shots. Anyway, I can't go telling all of his secrets, you'll need to buy it yourself for that.

gr. Dave
Would other advanced 14.1 players agree with Double-Dave that secondary break shots should not be used to break open 5+ balls? :eek:

What does everyone think of Schmidt's DVD from a educational/training perspective? How much is the DVD and where can I buy it? THX.
 
PoolSharkAllen said:
Would other advanced 14.1 players agree with Double-Dave that secondary break shots should not be used to break open 5+ balls? :eek:

What does everyone think of Schmidt's DVD from a educational/training perspective? How much is the DVD and where can I buy it? THX.

Just to be safe, only the first part of my post are from John's dvd, the 5-6 ball clusters part was my personal interpretation. Don't want to pretend I have John's insight. Platinum billiards sells the dvd for 29,95 I believe.
 
williebetmore: i cant thank u enough for posting what u did. i think this post will be the most usefull post ive ever read here on the forums. living in a country where there is just no option to get a good poolcourse, u just have to have to natural skills and ALOT of time to find things out by your selve and watch dvd's for hours. this forum helps ALOT, but your post just beats it all. i almost feel like this forum is my personal coath. i have loads of instructional video's, but a good training workout specific for 14-1 is as hard to find as a good looking, smart and cool gf.

i cant for the moment, really train :s my nearest poolhall (well its the 'famous' karaokebarr) just closed and will be changed into a nightclub :mad:. other poolhalls are either filled with mafia , too dangourous, or im not alowed to train for hours. the owner usually kicks me out after a hour. now ive got to take public transport.. blahaha im babling. (it frustrates me, but ive got alot of time ahead of me) :D what im saying is that this is my first year only, and i just cant afford to really be training. BUT that doesnt stop me from starting to make my own training shedule for later. and your post couldnt have helped me more on finding a good training. feel free to pm me or post here more posts. each letter is worth its weight in gold.

mjanti, ill just try what u said. i remember some months ago when i was playing some 14-1 the speed was the reason why i missed most breakshots. i always undercutted them. im not afraid of giving myself a big angle. i dont got the angle-fear that alot of people talke about. i just need to learn to ajust my aim in function of the speed. and it might sound stupid, but when i was training the breakshot after 10 times i was just SO bored of always having to replace the rack. not having the rack will resolve this (i know i know, sounds stupid and easy, but just never tought of it. for me it was just part of the boring part of training. u deal with it, or u dont train. nothing comes easily)

what i DID change last training, after checking out some instructional video's is to see where the cb would hit the rack. would it hit the rack full in the face of a ob, or in between etc. that already has decreased my scratches by ALOT. i think its AS important as having a good breakshot.

anyway i know if u can run 14's easily each rack (50+%) u can run a 1000 in theory. only difference, make the damn breakshot!! and focus!!.

ive been giving it a bit of tought. Do u think its good to devide a rack in 3 parts? part1; making the breakshot and not scratching, part2: second breakshot, part3 finding or seting up (bumping) a break and keyball ball into position.

i must admit 14-1 is by FAR my favorit game. if ANYONE wants to give me some training advice (no matter if i can train right now or not) you are very welcome.)

AGAIN, thx alot williebetmore!!. if i ever run a 50+ after your 3phase training, ill devote it too you!!.
 
dmgwalsh said:
Care to share?

DMG,
I'll re-post this (TheOne will complain about the echo...I would apologize ahead of time, but I WOULD be fibbing). Here it is:

Well, since you asked here it is. All shots on a 9 foot GCIV. The first 90 balls are for general stroke training, and are done with strict attention to delivering a perfect stroke each and every shot; you can eliminate or greatly reduce them for straight pool season. The rest of the drills you can do daily, and in an abbreviated version make a GREAT WARMUP for 10 minutes or so before a straight pool match.

I shoot 15 long straight in shots, bridging comfortably off the head rail, object balls lined up just past the side pocket.

The same 15 straight in shots bridging on the table, cue ball somewhere on the head string, object balls on the line of the first diamond past the side pocket, with center ball, so that cue ball goes forward after contact just enough to replace the object ball.

The same 15 shots with maximum follow (so cue ball follows to the foot rail, and back to near the head rail) - you are allowed a very SLIGHT angle.

The same 15 shots with maximum draw (draw back at least the the head rail).

The same 15 shots slow rolling so that cue ball rolls less than 1 foot (1 diamond) after contact.

The same 15 shots slow rolling with draw/drag so the cue ball rolls less than 6 inches after contact.

Object ball 6 1/2 feet from the corner pocket, near the rail, ball in hand, set up a mild to moderate cut, then shoot 15 (5 with inside English, 5 with outside English, 5 with center ball). Then shoot 15 more from the other side of the table. I will use either a forceful stroke or a soft stroke for all shots (varying day to day) since the aiming and results are different for each.

15 shots off the rail. Line object balls in a line down the center of the table lengthwise. Take cue ball in hand and shoot each one straight in with the cue ball on the rail. One day soft stroke, next day maximum controllable force.

45 straight pool break shots (no rack). Fifteen from the left, 15 from the rear, fifteen from the right. The shots from the left and right are divided into 5 cut shots using follow (cue closer to rail than object ball), 45 degree angle shots using slight draw (cue equidistant from the rail with the object ball), and follow shots (high object ball, cue ball closer to center table than object ball). Because I'm so poor at side pocket shots I have added 15 side pocket break shots a day.

During straight pool season I add 30 "escape the safety" shots. Object balls along the foot string, cue ball in hand along the foot rail, shoot all object balls with a slight to moderate angle to the far corner pockets. I cut 15 to the inside, and 15 to the outside. Bridge off the rail and put yourself close enough to the rail to be a little uncomfortable (on the rail if you are a masochist, but realistically I usually play safe if frozen, unless I really think I can make the shot).

During straight pool season I also do a jack up drill. Using one of those circle racks, the object balls are in a circle in the center of the table. Put cue ball in the center and make all 15 object balls without cue ball touching a cushion. Do it until you make 15 without missing. It's pretty easy so I will move the cue ball a little each shot so I have to jack up over another ball to shoot each time (sort of a "masochist's ball in hand" version)

I have a bunch of other rotation and straight pool drills I do when I'm done with the above practice regimen, but those are the ones I do every day I'm home (as you can tell I'm as serious as a heart attack about improving). I'll bet you are sorry you asked.
 
Solartje said:
i dont :p will u mary me and train me? :p

Sollie,
Sorry, I'm just a hack. These regimens were developed though with the help of some of the best instructors on the planet. I take no credit for them.

Actually dedicating the time and effort to do them, is however something that you can take credit for; there is nothing a good instructor likes as much as a good student. Good luck
 
i know u cant get all the credit of them, but if u had never posted them, someone like me, who has no acces AT all to an instructor would never have them.

u put alot of effort in writing it down for us all, and most wont do it for free. so even if u didnt 'invent' them, u made them open for players like me. u surely should get some credit for it.

ok, enough butt kissing for today :rolleyes:

greats from silly solly :cool:
 

CueTable Help



This is a nice drill for 14.1 and its not as easy as it looks. You start with ball in hand OUTSIDE of the balls and use only one side of the table.

As far as drills and such, I believe they are necessary and vital to your growth as a player. However, they should not be your only means to practice, nor should they be excesive. This is a quote by Bruce Lee about Martial Arts, but I believe that it applies beautifull to pool as well:

A martial artist who drills exclusively to a set pattern of combat is losing his freedom. He is actually becoming a slave to a choice pattern and feels that the pattern is the real thing. It leads to stagnation because the way of combat is never based on personal choice and fancies, but constantly changes from moment to moment, and the disappointed combatant will soon find out that his "choice routine" lacks pliability. There must be a "being" instead of a "doing" in training. One must be free. Instead of complexity of form, there should be simplicity of expression.
 
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dmgwalsh said:
use only one side of the table.

What do you mean by this?

CueTable Help



Use only pockets A,B,C, and D - which means both side pockets and the corner pockets where the balls are.
 
Blackjack said:
This is a nice drill for 14.1 and its not as easy as it looks.

Blackjack,
What do you mean by this????? It looks IMPOSSIBLE!!!:)

I'm going to assume your strategy is to get inside the circle off of the 11 or 14 (without disturbing a ball). That looks TRICKY.

I'm heading to the basement now to give her a try.
 
Williebetmore said:
Blackjack,
What do you mean by this????? It looks IMPOSSIBLE!!!:)

I'm going to assume your strategy is to get inside the circle off of the 11 or 14 (without disturbing a ball). That looks TRICKY.

I'm heading to the basement now to give her a try.

Remember, you have ball in hand OUTSIDE the balls, not inside the balls. Its not that hard. You just need to break out that 3 ball cluster in the direction of the bottom rail - after you eliminate the 3 balls in the back of the stack... I better shut up before I give away all of the secrets to this... lol
 
I am really old

Gambling > (106) Houston 1975 > (102) Seattle 1971 - on a 10 footer!
Practice > on MY table (262) in 1972 w/ big pockets > Pool room in Santa Ana, Cal 1970 (161) 1st time I broke 100!
 
Blackjack said:
Remember, you have ball in hand OUTSIDE the balls, not inside the balls. Its not that hard. You just need to break out that 3 ball cluster in the direction of the bottom rail - after you eliminate the 3 balls in the back of the stack... I better shut up before I give away all of the secrets to this... lol

Blackjack,
Oops. I thought you meant ball in hand in the kitchen. That made things quite a bit tougher. I started with the cue ball in the kitchen and followed on the 11 in the corner, letting the cue ball float inside the circle. It took me 6 or 7 tries before I could get them all. A VERY entertaining drill.
 
Blackjack said:

CueTable Help



Use only pockets A,B,C, and D - which means both side pockets and the corner pockets where the balls are.

David - just a comment on this drill. I think if people are just shooting all the balls in then it isn't as helpful a drill as it could be. Of course the drill will help improve cue ball control, but not much else. It seems like so much more can be gained from this if there is an added requirement: that you plan your last shot to be the classic 14.1 break shot. I think some would be surprised how much harder the drill is with this requirement. I haven't tried it myself, but will next time.

Also, in your set up, do the 6 and 3 pass by each other into the corner pockets or are they blocked?

Thanks!
dan
 
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