6 jaw chuck?

I was just at Trents shop yesterday and I never saw any Schmelke blanks. I did see some AWESOME forearms with some killer veneers in em though. And dont even get me started with that sexy ass burl cue! lol! Aint nothing in that shop but custom stuff. Sorry I didnt have time to stop by and meet you Joe, we had to hit the road man. Ill swing by next time!

Joe
 
snipershot said:
I was just at Trents shop yesterday and I never saw any Schmelke blanks. I did see some AWESOME forearms with some killer veneers in em though. And dont even get me started with that sexy ass burl cue! lol! Aint nothing in that shop but custom stuff. Sorry I didnt have time to stop by and meet you Joe, we had to hit the road man. Ill swing by next time!

Joe
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Give me another source that will sell me ebony/maple sneaky blanks for less that 100.00 and i will give em a try. Let the points be near perfect(or nothing that isn't easily fixed) too....
 
pescadoman said:
Give me another source that will sell me ebony/maple sneaky blanks for less that 100.00 and i will give em a try. Let the points be near perfect(or nothing that isn't easily fixed) too....
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Randy,

Give Prather a call, I think saw a few pre-made prongs as low as $67.00.
 
Cue said:
Im looking for a 8" 6 jaw chuck for my Clausing, without breaking the bank ;) I know Bison and Buck are nice, but I cant afford to buy one of those right now.
Anyone have any suggestions? I see a import one on Ebay for around $140 but not sure if they are any decent.
Anyone have anything for sale, PM me?
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Which Clausing do you have ?
I have a Clausing too.
Would love another one.

Check the video .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OSL11ikbxnw
That is spinning on 6-jaw Bison Chuck and NO rear chuck.
Just inside spindle collet I chiseled and hand filed.
I think it's spinning OK.
And, no, that is not a Schmelke blank.
Just seasoned wood I slapped together.
 
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Schmelke Blanks

Hi,

Sorry to get off the six jaw topic but I wanted to defend Schmelke.

IMO Schmelke makes a quality blank for a great price. They are great to do biz with and in the past if I got one that was flawed a little they always replaced it with out question.

In the last 2 years or so I have noticed their quality has gone way up as the squared bottom of the splice is very accurate on all of the blanks now. Some years ago I used to get some where the prong end bottom was sloppy now and then.

I have build 30 to 40 Schmelke blank SPs for customers who did not want to spend a lot of money for a cue and liked my shaft taper.

Here is a Schmelke blank that I just sold for over $ 700.00. I put silver rings on it, ebony butt sleeve and 2 shafts with micarta ferrules.

I guess my point is as a business man my cost point on this cue was very low and my profit for time spent was high.

When I am odering blanks from them, I know I am making money. I love Schmelke!!

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Another little story in which is the reason I will continue to do business with Schmelke.

I bought some on sale nylon thread so I could practice wraps on cheap cues.
I also ordered a spool of linen from them.

I got a spool of black nylon instead of the linen. When I brought this to their attention, one of the Schmelke boys sent me a roll of linen. I had paid for it
anyway. I offered to send money for the spool of nylon and he wouldn't hear anything of it. Kind of made me feel bad but one act of kindness assures them of continued business in the future.

I also purchased several final sand shafts from them to use when I was starting to turn my dowels down. Pretty good quality for the money.
 
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I don't see the sense why Schmelke sneaky blanks was condemned then a short splice by Prather was recommended,

If you have unseasoned woods, you better buy Schmelke sneaky blanks for now.
 
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Guerra Cues said:

On the construction methods I have a bit of everybody's methods... A bit of Bob Dzuricky, a bit of Eric Crisp, a bit of my own ideas, a bit of Southwest, a bit of Searing, a bit of Leon Sly, a bit of Dennis Dieckman, a bit of Pete Omen, etc, etc...
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Tony, respectfully, I get myself into enough negative threads all by myself. Please don't be dropping my name into more of them just for the purpose of giving your argument some type of credibility. I'm guessing the other guys' names you mentioned probably feel the same way. I don't know about the others but I answered a few questions when you asked, the same way I would have answered anybody. I would have refrained if I had known you would become the AZ know-it-all, quoting partial truths of things I told you as if it was your own matter of fact knowledge. I don't mean to call you out or be offensive, but man you gotta stop with the name dropping & openly sharing info others give you. That's not cool by any means. I told you after the wood fiasco that you screwed a good guy over & burned a lot of bridges if you didn't make it right. Well, you didn't make it right. And now, further more, you're openly sharing things from other builders who gave you their hard learned knowledge in private. Worse yet, you aren't even repeating it correctly or entirely, so you are putting out a bunch of half truth bits of knowledge & technique as if it's matter of fact. Newbs like yourself read it & think you know your shit, and they go to their shop to try what you suggest & waste a ton of money & time on your hollow advice. Stop.

I have one last bit of advice for you. Stand on your own merit. Let your cues prove your worth over time & longevity. Nothing you can say about yourself or your equipment can prove a thing. No names can be dropped to prove anything or give you credibility. All you can do as of now is baffle people with bullshit. And as soon as that bullshit begins to stink, and it always does, it'll be three steps backwards for you after that one step forward. We all EARNED our names with our own creativity and good cues that play well & endure the vigors of action & time. There is no other way. Getting a name in cue making takes time. It won't happen over night & you can't bullshit your way into it or piggy back off of anybody else. So my advice is to hush up, build cues, and dive in to the deep end without your floaties. Then you'll know if you can swim or not.
 
<<<<<looks around for name to drop...

<<<<<looks around some more....

<<<<<looks underneath bed....

<<<<<looks behind bookcase

<<<<<looks in mirror:(
 
There's a lesson learned here.
Great words by Eric.
I might add my dos centavos later tonight if I can write civil enough.
 
and dive in to the deep end without your floaties.
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Good post as usual Eric. You can get your point across nicely without being rude.

I have no idea why I was thinking about different floaties in the pool but it made me think of a saying that I just made up.

"When you poop in your own pool, no one will swim with you".

Does that make sense?
 
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qbilder said:
So my advice is to hush up, build cues, and dive in to the deep end without your floaties. Then you'll know if you can swim or not.
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So I guess what Eric is saying is:"You got to pay your dues if you want to sing the blues".
 
6 jaw chucks

How can a hi $ branded chuck be justified for cue work? I am using 3 Logans and a Morrison all well tooled with collets faceplates,3 and 4 jaw chucks. Collets for speed production, 3jaw with zig zag for general stuff, 4jaw for precision (0.0002 TIR) on the front and 3 jaw cue component chucks on the back side. Provides all the varity of accuracy to work with all the materials generally used in cue smithing. Aquired all my lathes used but well tooled for around 1K each but they each have a different size/type chuck mount so lots of tooling storage needed. Good part is no doubt which chuck fits each lathe(LOL). FYI Machine shop auctions are gold mines for good branded tooling often pennies on the dollar. You can test drive on the spot before you bid. Have a wonderfull day. Ken Ken
 
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