Testing different bolts with the same forearm handle construction could answer several questions. How do you add wood threads into that test? Who wants to do it and share the info?
A friendly discussion about A-joints
- Thread starter ratcues
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Testing different bolts with the same forearm handle construction could answer several questions. How do you add wood threads into that test? Who wants to do it and share the info?
I can answer this way,
I did 2 cues, same size tenon
#1 3/8X10, stainless, weight 1 oz.
#2 1/2X13 aluminum, weight .7 oz.
Both screws, 3 inches long.
same joint screw in both,
#2 played more firm.
Had me scratching my head a bit.
Take your normal -A- joint construction and add a phenolic sleeve to the equation, not the buzz ring but a phenolic sleeve on the Inner tenon. There is a change in vibration transferred.
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Yes, with some reservation. A stainless steel pin that's 4" long, 2" into each direction, won't allow hardly any flex in that 4" section, whereas a brass or aluminum pin would. How much affect it could have I couldn't say without guessing. Even a 3" pin would alleviate a lot of that tension. The reservation comes in with me thinking it would be too minor to notice.
Do you you believe the length of a pin, given the same thread and material, would change the hit?[/QUOTE]
Ryan I do not think that the length of the pin will change much if anything. To my understanding when the tip hits the cue ball the vibration we call hit begins, it then moves at the speed of sound to the butt cap and then back to the cue tip, this movement is what we perceive as a cues hit. If at anytime this vibration is interrupted the vibration will be interrupted, the pitch of the vibration and the sound will be changed from bell like to a cracked or broken sound. This is why in most cases if something is loose on a cue it will sound like the difference in tone is coming from the cues tip or ferrule.
In my opinion so long as all parts of the cue are securely joined (Nothing is loose) the tone of the cues hit will not be changed by a long or short metal doweled screw at the A-joint.
JIMO
As much feel is lost by adding a linen wrap.....or more by adding leather.
I think you'll find the same differences as when you change the joint pin out from g10 ss brass and ti. A very slight change in balance and not enough to make a difference for 99.9% of the shooters.
I agree 110%
Michael, I have been using a Phenolic Sleeve at the A-joint for 3 years now, I personally love the differance in hit this modification makes, I doubt that I will ever stop using this method of construction.
Heavy metal objects mounted in a calculated position are commonly call vibration dampers.
On a cue stick the concept of a vibration dampener was developed using technology derived from Bows and shot guns, called the Limsaver. When installed on a cue stick the normal vibration from tip to butt and then back again is dissipated at the cues butt and little vibration is returned to the cues tip. By doing this a cue with major vibration issues can be made to feel more stable /solid, while not interfering very much with the cues over all tone.
Can you share your knowledge of bows and vibration? Searching for info like this takes forever.
It boils down to where's the best place to put the metal/weight. Until the players start liking 16oz cues were stuck adding something somewhere.
I've build many natural weighted 18-19 oz cues. Some over 19.... It depends on what types of wood you're using.
You're certainly not going to achieve it using all maple.
Here some information that may be helpful.
http://www.limbsaver.com/
http://www.limbsaver.com/2010/video_center/
http://www.limbsaverproducts.com/
Take care
i have to totally disagree with this statement right.i am not saying it is your statement Ryan.i realize lots of people say and think this way.i used to be one of them.now i believe the opposite to be true.
i quit making full splice sneakies mainly b/c the quailty of available blanks was just too poor.i realize there are a few new ones out there now that i need to try,but i also quit making them b/c the hit on average was a little softer than i was looking for.i am not sure what kind of glue they use for the sneakies or if that has anything to do with it at all,but it was the only thing i could figure out.maybe they use hide glue and that was what was softening up the hit on some.
i like the crisp hit of cues with a proper a-joint better than the average full splice hit.i know i will be called crazy by many,but this is honestly the way i feel about it.until someone starts full splicing with 206,which should firm up the hit.
me too.it should be no problem.
I don't know. Hit being subjective the answer could be all over the board. I would suspect that the resonance would be somewhat different because of the larger chunk of metal and this might not sound as "friendly" to the player or vice versa.
As to the real performance of the cue I would think that the difference would be very little.
This is one of those things that you don't know until you try it and I have never tried it.
Thanks.
The billiard bumpers are interesting. Next time somebody has one on their cue I'll have to try it. It wouldn't take much to build this idea into the butt of a cue similar to the baseball bats.
Yes Sir:
And you already know, the more pieces to the puzzle, the more chance of a failure, Got to use your -A- Game.
Yes Sir:
And you already know, the more pieces to the puzzle, the more chance of a failure, Got to use your -A- Game.
Well I am not even close to having an A-Game, but it works for me and I am happy with it, and while I do understand the down side to date I have had no problems. But thanks for mentioning it earlier I am glad to see some one of your ability has given it some thought at one time or another.
I hope all is well Michael, take care.
Thank you, I have tried your method and it works well, You'll be happy to know some very good Cue makers of the past did exactly what you do. I have tried lots of things mentioned on the forum over time. Just to give me a better understanding of different techniques. There are a few like your method that have given me very positive thoughts. There are lots that make me say, Why the heck did I ever try this. But the knowledge is good to know anyway. To me, it's not just about making cues, it's the entire package, Especially learning different repair techniques. Versatility helps to complete the circle.
Always forward Craig.
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