a question of joint type please help

Y

ymiryang

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
hello all,

I recently bought a cue with 5/16x18 joint, as you all know this is a steel joint with brass insert. the cue is great and plays solid. however, i found a little problem that with using this cue, the follow spin shot is ok but draw back shot is not so sharp, i asked a guy, he said this might be because the joint type, he suggested me to try wood to wood joint.

so my question is will wood to wood joint shoot back spin better than a steel insert joint? if cue action is right, I have not played for a while so I think I might need to improve my cue action and be careful of the way I play.

I am also thinking to buy a wood to wood joint type cue sometime, but can anybody give any comments of great custom cues with maybe 3/8-10 or 3/8-11 joint, I want a solid hit cue but can put good spin on cue ball, and maybe 4-6 points design, not too expensive, below $2000usd, and taking orders of making cue as some great cue makers already retired, and maybe can be delivered within one year or less.

Please give me any ideas, thanks a lot!!
 
I've ALWAYS favored big pins with a wood to wood joint. I think they feel better which I suppose could give you more confidence in your draw shots. However, most of the time it ends up being a stroke/cueing problem, tip or tip radius rather than the joint itself. Your best option for a pin if you're considering 3/8x10 or 3/8x11 would be a Uni-loc Radial since it fills the threads in the shaft completely.

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
 
ymiryang said:
hello all,

I recently bought a cue with 5/16x18 joint, as you all know this is a steel joint with brass insert. the cue is great and plays solid. however, i found a little problem that with using this cue, the follow spin shot is ok but draw back shot is not so sharp, i asked a guy, he said this might be because the joint type, he suggested me to try wood to wood joint.

so my question is will wood to wood joint shoot back spin better than a steel insert joint? if cue action is right, I have not played for a while so I think I might need to improve my cue action and be careful of the way I play.

I am also thinking to buy a wood to wood joint type cue sometime, but can anybody give any comments of great custom cues with maybe 3/8-10 or 3/8-11 joint, I want a solid hit cue but can put good spin on cue ball, and maybe 4-6 points design, not too expensive, below $2000usd, and taking orders of making cue as some great cue makers already retired, and maybe can be delivered within one year or less.

Please give me any ideas, thanks a lot!!
Click to expand...

Seriously, you think a connection pin has ANY affect on whether you can draw a ball ???
The cue could be held together with a nail and it wouldn't make any difference.
Draw is determined by the 'snap' of your wrist.
If you ain't gettin any, you ain't got none.
 
ymiryang said:
hello all,

I recently bought a cue with 5/16x18 joint, as you all know this is a steel joint with brass insert. the cue is great and plays solid. however, i found a little problem that with using this cue, the follow spin shot is ok but draw back shot is not so sharp, i asked a guy, he said this might be because the joint type, he suggested me to try wood to wood joint.

so my question is will wood to wood joint shoot back spin better than a steel insert joint? if cue action is right, I have not played for a while so I think I might need to improve my cue action and be careful of the way I play.

I am also thinking to buy a wood to wood joint type cue sometime, but can anybody give any comments of great custom cues with maybe 3/8-10 or 3/8-11 joint, I want a solid hit cue but can put good spin on cue ball, and maybe 4-6 points design, not too expensive, below $2000usd, and taking orders of making cue as some great cue makers already retired, and maybe can be delivered within one year or less.

Please give me any ideas, thanks a lot!!
Click to expand...

He is misguided.

Draw is achieved by a combination of:

1 contacting low on the Cue Ball

2 follow thru.

In general, the more "smoothly" you follow thru, the lower you can hit on the CB
without mis-cueing.

Dale
 
Joint type

ymiryang said:
hello all,

I recently bought a cue with 5/16x18 joint, as you all know this is a steel joint with brass insert. the cue is great and plays solid. however, i found a little problem that with using this cue, the follow spin shot is ok but draw back shot is not so sharp, i asked a guy, he said this might be because the joint type, he suggested me to try wood to wood joint.

so my question is will wood to wood joint shoot back spin better than a steel insert joint? if cue action is right, I have not played for a while so I think I might need to improve my cue action and be careful of the way I play.

I am also thinking to buy a wood to wood joint type cue sometime, but can anybody give any comments of great custom cues with maybe 3/8-10 or 3/8-11 joint, I want a solid hit cue but can put good spin on cue ball, and maybe 4-6 points design, not too expensive, below $2000usd, and taking orders of making cue as some great cue makers already retired, and maybe can be delivered within one year or less.

Please give me any ideas, thanks a lot!!
Click to expand...

Personally I think its you, not to be offensive but shooting draw is done the same way regardless of the cue.......
IF you can get top spin or follow then you can get draw.
 
Joint type is about the last thing that would effect spin, as long as the connection is tight. Now your stroke would certainly make a difference. Taper of shaft, type of tip, ferrule type, shaft dia, type of cue ball, and cloth would all play a part to a degree, but joint type would be about the last thing.
 
What he says

cubswin said:
Joint type is about the last thing that would effect spin, as long as the connection is tight. Now your stroke would certainly make a difference. Taper of shaft, type of tip, ferrule type, shaft dia, type of cue ball, and cloth would all play a part to a degree, but joint type would be about the last thing.
Click to expand...

Tip and stroke all things being equal.
Nick :)
 
mortuarymike-nv said:
Personally I think its you, not to be offensive but shooting draw is done the same way regardless of the cue.......
IF you can get top spin or follow then you can get draw.
Click to expand...

I agree... maybe some practice or instruction can get you going (or coming) .
 
cubswin said:
Joint type is about the last thing that would effect spin, as long as the connection is tight. Now your stroke would certainly make a difference. Taper of shaft, type of tip, ferrule type, shaft dia, type of cue ball, and cloth would all play a part to a degree, but joint type would be about the last thing.
Click to expand...

I'd go with the bumper and the color of the wrap after the joint.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I know cue action is the main thing to do good draw shot, I can draw cue ball back but feeling is just very solid. So just wondering if different joints make different feelings and efforts.
 
ymiryang said:
Thanks for all the replies. I know cue action is the main thing to do good draw shot, I can draw cue ball back but feeling is just very solid. So just wondering if different joints make different feelings and efforts.
Click to expand...

I can't draw with heavy stainless steel joint collars either.
 
Personally, the main thing I've found that affects my shots is the taper. I find that a very long taper makes it easier to draw, and follows are more consistent. Just the opposite for a more conical taper. I know what's happening, though.

With a very long taper, the cue basically goes where I aim it. With a conical taper, it tends to rise up as you stroke forward, just because it's mainly resting on your hand and the taper makes the tip rise up if you have a dead straight stroke. Theoretically, it shouldn't matter since the tip should go wherever it is at address, but I think in practice I see it lower on the back stroke a bit, and unconsciously correct for it on the forward stroke. So draws are sometimes weak and follows are sometimes overly strong unless I'm really concentrating on making a dead straight stroke.

I'm sure I'd quickly get used to a conical taper if that's what I mainly played, but anyhow that screws me up when I try out someone's wizbang new cue. I've always thought that this is why old Meuccis have a reputation for being able to spin the cue ball so well...the tip goes right where you aim it, from the beginning of the stroke all the way to contact.

Anyhow, that's just my opinion.
 
I can do draw shots but not feel smooth and only can do at most 3/4 size of a table length.
 
ymiryang said:
The shaft has a 16" taper tip 13.1mm maybe it's still not long enough.
Click to expand...

I wasn't trying to imply this has anything to do with your case. I was only saying that for myself, this is what seems to affect it the most, and it's an actual physical thing that happens, causing me to react in an inappropriate way and screw up my shot.
 
Back to your original question, 3/8-10 is the only threading I would consider in your situation. Yes, there are some variances, but today's common non-acme 3/8-10 is used on entirely too many cues.

Whenever I get a shaft to try out, it's almost always a 3/8-10. I can fit it on over a dozen cues. Compare that to the Mezz, Schulers, Lambros, Curtec, Schon...

I have several 5/16-14 cues... None really are interchangeable with the other.

Freddie <~~~ been there, don't that
 
Your bridge length and bridge can also affect the amount of draw. Play around with that before you do anything drastic.
 
The best joint for draw action is made of rolled up paper. Nothing else draws like that! Forget all the other materials.
 
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