almost finished...OOPS

This is the difference between -.517 and .517 on my cnc lathe. The E-stop becomes a very small target when this happens.

P1012647.jpg

Been there.
Instead of G0 Y1, I wrote G0 Y0.
Luckily Home Depot took back the burnt router.
Soft limit that was set to Y.400 wasn't on.:rolleyes:
 
I believe it. The first cue I ever built by myself in Joels shop had a pink ivory joint.


He had one piece left that was the most beautiful dark red you ever seen. I had just finished turning down the shaft and the butt was ready to turn also.

I slowly start turning the butt joint down and had been alone for sometime. Joel opens the door to the shop and scares the crap out of me and I bumped the lathe and the Pink Ivory on the Joint EXPLODED!

It didn't damage the tennon but I didn't have anymore of the same piece left....really pissed me off when that happened, was going to face it off till the grain matched up. Then it got stolen a few years later:angry:

Some bad luck with that first cue, I'll tell ya.
Grey GHost
 
oooopss

My friend, and the man that was teaching me to build, and repair cues glued his lips together. He was a smoker, and he got a little cyno on his finger. He must have touched his lip when he reached for his cig. Oh man he was pissed! But it was damn funny!

I was putting on a wrap, and towards the end, the linen had a huge fray in it. I had never seen this before or since. One of the threads had been cut somehow. So, I start unwinding it into a big birdnest in the floor at my feet. I reach up to grab my utility knife, and damned if I don't accidently cut my lathe on. The linen, still attached to the cue an inch or so before the forearm, causes that birdsnest at my feet to fly upwards rather fast. I instinctively reach for it. My intangled hand is jerked into the spinning cue. Before I could cut off my lathe. The linen cut into my middle finger. I was very lucky! Scared the hell out of me! I learned a big lesson. :smile:
 
the man that was teaching me to build, and repair cues glued his lips together. He was a smoker, and he got a little cyno on his finger. He must have touched his lip when he reached for his cig.

Good thing he didn't have to go to the bathroom!
 
Distractions Are my worst nightmare. That's why I don't have a radio or tv in my shop. I also yelled at my wife when she came into the shop to talk to me. I do t have her anymore so. No worries there. Lolol

You'd go nuts working with me. I have my MP3 plugged into my ears, people constantly walking around the shop, pages, phone calls, Downey shooting rubber bands at me.....
 
I am confused on why you need a longer taper bar. The ruler says you have a 36" set.
 
I am confused on why you need a longer taper bar. The ruler says you have a 36" set.

The taper bars go that far, but my bed goes about 4-6" further. On this butt, I still have a 2" long tenon hanging off the end, so everything was pushed out a little further towards the tailstock end. I have an extension on the bed that holds the tip of the shaft straight. I figure if I have a longer taper bar for the butt tapers, this won't happen again.

After seeing the other pics and hearing the stories, and getting the mental image of Blue Hog being shirtless, I guess overall my oops wasn't too bad after all.:D
DAve
 
The taper bars go that far, but my bed goes about 4-6" further. On this butt, I still have a 2" long tenon hanging off the end, so everything was pushed out a little further towards the tailstock end. I have an extension on the bed that holds the tip of the shaft straight. I figure if I have a longer taper bar for the butt tapers, this won't happen again.

After seeing the other pics and hearing the stories, and getting the mental image of Blue Hog being shirtless, I guess overall my oops wasn't too bad after all.:D
DAve

Dave...Why don't you take the time rig a dead man switch at the end of the cut. Mine runs down and hits the switch and momentum travels less than 1/8" after power is cut. McMaster Carr has what you need. It's looks like a push button switch. Get them rated for the amps you're using. On mine, one switch turns the lathe and the router off together. If you have a 220 lathe and a 120 router, you just have to stack rig two switches. One for each voltage. I use a normally closed switch so when the carriage bumps it open, the power is cut off. Just make sure the switch has a little bit of travel left in it when the power is cut. It's mounted on a magnet that I can stick anywhere along the bed of the lathe so it has infinite length capabilities for any size of material I'm cutting. I just have to remember to move it if I change the length of material. I always go short to long if I'm doing multiples of different lengths so if I do forget to move, it is going to stop short.

Good luck.........
 
Was just taking the 2nd to last pass fitting a completed shaft to a just completed cocobolo sneaky, my girlfriend came in and said something, I turned my head for a second, then looked back just as the bearing rolled off the end of the taper bar, and jammed the cutter into the shaft. I was using the power feed. Lesson #1 learned, I'll be locking the door when I'm in the shop from now on. Lession #2, I need a longer taper bar....
Dave

View attachment 125779

Dave,

I like your way of using the stock steady rest and it was actually in my
head to test it out on my machine before I saw yours.

Do you have to retighten fixation of the ball bearing due to vibration or any
other reasons?

Sorry for migrating off from the topic. I keep my wife in another house :wink:

Kent
 
learned my lesson on a printing press...

cleaning a large cylinder laying on my back someone yells to me and scares me. i hold the inch button down alttle longer than i wanted to.i had to have somone else reverse the press to get my hand free.luckily just the tip of my middle finger.
 
cleaning a large cylinder laying on my back someone yells to me and scares me. i hold the inch button down alttle longer than i wanted to.i had to have somone else reverse the press to get my hand free.luckily just the tip of my middle finger.

My younger brother was cleaning ink rollers on a 5-color offset and the rag got caught and pulled him into the rollers. It took them over 45 minutes to get him out and they had to crank the machine backwards to do it. He lost both arms at the shoulders. That was 40 years ago.

Dick
 
I always use my shirt to remove little stains or glue spots because I'm too lazy to get a towel from the roll. That roll is at least five feet away from my lathe...Pffff...


man you are lazy.i use my shirt all the time,but my paper towels are at least 8 feet away.
 
Dave,

I like your way of using the stock steady rest and it was actually in my
head to test it out on my machine before I saw yours.

Do you have to retighten fixation of the ball bearing due to vibration or any
other reasons?

Sorry for migrating off from the topic. I keep my wife in another house :wink:

Kent

I ground some flat spots on the bearing casing were each post contacts it. That stops most movement, but sometimes the bearing will pop out when a cue gets stuck in a collet and I have to push hard to release it.
Overall, it works pretty good considering. It does take longer to setup a cue to run true as there is a little play on the base of the steady rest.
Dave
 
Dave...Why don't you take the time rig a dead man switch at the end of the cut. Mine runs down and hits the switch and momentum travels less than 1/8" after power is cut. McMaster Carr has what you need. It's looks like a push button switch. Get them rated for the amps you're using. On mine, one switch turns the lathe and the router off together. If you have a 220 lathe and a 120 router, you just have to stack rig two switches. One for each voltage. I use a normally closed switch so when the carriage bumps it open, the power is cut off. Just make sure the switch has a little bit of travel left in it when the power is cut. It's mounted on a magnet that I can stick anywhere along the bed of the lathe so it has infinite length capabilities for any size of material I'm cutting. I just have to remember to move it if I change the length of material. I always go short to long if I'm doing multiples of different lengths so if I do forget to move, it is going to stop short.

Good luck.........

I have one at the headstock end, but didn't think I needed one on the tail end....I guess I was mistaken:smile: My lathe is belt driven and old, it actually goes about a 1/2" before stopping, so I had to make the switch mount a little flexible and use a three position switch so it clicks it twice and takes up some slack. I'll get a pic later to show. Thanks for the advice.
Dave
 
man you are lazy.i use my shirt all the time,but my paper towels are at least 8 feet away.

I just ruined a nice flannel shirt yesterday while doing a tip. I leaned to the left on my Micro-zlux lathe, and my shirt tail got caught in the gears on the side. Luckily that lathe has a overload sensor and it jammed up and shutdown. I had to turn the chuck in reverse to remove myself from the gears. The worst part is my daughter just gave me that shirt about a week ago, and it's ripped and stained after one trip to the shop:frown:
 
I have one at the headstock end, but didn't think I needed one on the tail end....I guess I was mistaken:smile: My lathe is belt driven and old, it actually goes about a 1/2" before stopping, so I had to make the switch mount a little flexible and use a three position switch so it clicks it twice and takes up some slack. I'll get a pic later to show. Thanks for the advice.
Dave
dave, look on the bright side,
flannel makes great buffing cloths

i have a micro switch rigged to a magnetic dial indicator holder
it kills the lathe and router at the same time
i can move it to either it end
but, here's what happens
when FORGETTING to move it during HUAS ( head up ass syndrome)
OUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :eek::eek:
and the noise it makes!!!!

003-6.jpg

002-10.jpg
 
Not to mention the fireworks display it creates!! Every live center / dead center I own has some of those battle scars. What sucks is when you do that with a brandnew router blade, $10 or more gone in one shot.
 
have you tried these bits,are they any good,cheapest ive ever seen,do they charge a fortune for shipping
yes sir i have
as good as anything else i've paid 10x for
they have a maximum of $7 shipping
they dont cut stainless steel dead centers or live centers very well though :wink:
 
Last edited:
Back
Top