Am I the only one that cannot warm up to low deflection shafts?

I have shot both LD and Regular shafts. I came back to the game of pool after a 20+ yr absence. Since coming back to the game 3 yrs ago, I did the switch to an LD shaft. I didn't do it for deflection per say; I did it b/c LD's are thinner diameter, and more rigid. (supposedly). I had to forget adjusting on long runs for deflection with the LD's. That has made life a lot easier.

I have tried many LD shafts, and reconciled on these two,(mind you this is just my opinion). OB (OB2), & Predator (Z2)

I also have an "aged" shaft from a cue-maker with a conical taper.

I like to shoot them "long & thin" so to un-scientifically test these shafts,I shot several hundred "long & thin" shots long table (8ft).

Here is what I found:

Standard non LD shaft -- 1 1/2 to 2 " deflection

Conical "aged" shaft -- 3/4 to 1 1/4 " deflection

OB-2 (laminated) -- 3/4 to 1 " deflection

Z-2 -- almost 0 to 1/2" deflection


I did have a cuemaker turn the Z-2 to a superpro taper, not so sure that would make much of a difference.

I shoot them all (depending on the game), but in rotation games I have a preference for the Z-2.

Both my shafts are 13 mm. My standard shafts are all under 13 mm. I've never taken measurements nor do I care to. My experience is with simply how they play.
 
Yea

I have tried a slew of them just about everything predator has offered, OB's and recently bought a cue that came with a jacoby hybrid. Of all the LD shaft I have owned or hit. the OB classic pro and the jacoby seem to play pretty well for my style of shooting. I have also have multiples of the same model LD shafts and just like standard maple shaft, they all had different qualities to each one. Then again, I like standard maple shafts also but I have been playing for some time. Mike Lambros LD shaft is real nice, firm hit, no aiming adjustment period needed, it's right there and now! Your mileage may vary....
 
.they deflect, but not a consistent amount....and sometimes not at all.

Any scientists out there? And I've tried very lengthy, diligent efforts to no spectacular, noticeable, great results with the laminates. Certainly have value once adjustments are considered BIG HOWEVER !!!!!!

Tone


You are not alone, many players have the same experience you're having. It's very important to be able to "move" the cue ball off the straight line and it's difficult with the LD shafts....I can play with them, but slight "off angle" shots I'll sometimes drive straight into the rail with TOI.....they deflect, but not a consistent amount....and sometimes not at all.

'The TOI is the Teacher'
 
Ld?

I thought I would chime in.
I am in the process of switching from Maple to LD 3rd week.
By chance I received a Lucasi with a flexpoint shaft I say .looks nice
Let's take it out for a spin.
I am 58 and have played with Adams, Palmer, MCdermott. And once when
I was in the right place at the right time shot with a Orig. Gus Z.,
Ok back to the LD
I have spoken to a number of pros who recommend I make the switch but they also said
I would need to be patient and give it some time especially since I play or practice 14.1 most of the time.
There is no doubt there is a difference. I have noticed once I can compensate
For the deflection that ( LD ) is the way for me.
I have noticed very nice action with the cue ball and I am getting use to the hit.
Recently I was fortunate to pick up a Arnot SP with a T3 shaft --
so I think I will Stick with it.
There is something said for both and as mentioned before its all about feel, comfort level
And I believe your confidence when you are at the Table.
Mcp.
 
You are not alone, many players have the same experience you're having. It's very important to be able to "move" the cue ball off the straight line and it's difficult with the LD shafts....I can play with them, but slight "off angle" shots I'll sometimes drive straight into the rail with TOI.....they deflect, but not a consistent amount....and sometimes not at all.

'The TOI is the Teacher'

Not sure if you are throwing a bait here for us azbers to keep you coming!! Your statement above did not go well with what i know, it could be me!!

It's very important to be able to "move" the cue ball off the straight line and it's difficult with the LD shafts....I can play with them, but slight "off angle" shots I'll sometimes drive straight into the rail with TOI.....they deflect, but not a consistent amount....and sometimes not at all

If LD shaft get CB in straight line then that is great! i do not need TOI to correct for direction change, i could aim straight in! i can easily shorten my bridge and get deflection as much as i wanted if needed! I disagree about the consistency part, it could be in the stroke!:rolleyes:
 
I never tried one, my thought is that if you understand how deflection works you can use it to your advantage, why would I want to reduce it?


Why am I the Colonel? Because I always get the chicken
 
I never tried one, my thought is that if you understand how deflection works you can use it to your advantage, why would I want to reduce it?


Why am I the Colonel? Because I always get the chicken


I do not know your skill level or if you play money matches or in pro tournaments; where one miss and you are out; then you will try everything under the sun to make sure you play more consistent; one of those tools out there is LD shafts. Bottom line what makes you play better; if HD then be it, if not i'd try LD..
 
You are not alone, many players have the same experience you're having. It's very important to be able to "move" the cue ball off the straight line and it's difficult with the LD shafts....I can play with them, but slight "off angle" shots I'll sometimes drive straight into the rail with TOI.....they deflect, but not a consistent amount....and sometimes not at all.
'The TOI is the Teacher'

I've noticed the non-deflection at times and I think it's due to the tip. I have an LD shaft with a medium/soft tip and it isn't as consistent as my other LD shaft with a hard tip. The harder the tip, the more predictable the cue ball deflection for me.

Slow rolling or jacking up with the softer tip completely changes the game, too. I may change over to my standard shaft tonight and see what I can notice about deflection.

Best,
Mike
 
Lucasi Hybrid & Predator

I thought I would chime in.
I am in the process of switching from Maple to LD 3rd week.
By chance I received a Lucasi with a flexpoint shaft I say .looks nice
Let's take it out for a spin.
I am 58 and have played with Adams, Palmer, MCdermott. And once when
I was in the right place at the right time shot with a Orig. Gus Z.,
Ok back to the LD
I have spoken to a number of pros who recommend I make the switch but they also said
I would need to be patient and give it some time especially since I play or practice 14.1 most of the time.
There is no doubt there is a difference. I have noticed once I can compensate
For the deflection that ( LD ) is the way for me.
I have noticed very nice action with the cue ball and I am getting use to the hit.
Recently I was fortunate to pick up a Arnot SP with a T3 shaft --
so I think I will Stick with it.
There is something said for both and as mentioned before its all about feel, comfort level
And I believe your confidence when you are at the Table.
Mcp.

I think as you said you should stick with it a bit longer. Last month I picked up a mint condition Predator SP w/ 314-2 Shaft on eBay, took time getting used to the shaft but now cant see how I didnt get some type of LD shaft much earlier. Also recently picked up the new Lucasi Hybrid with the Flexpoint Shaft after using a friends, the Pro Taper gets very narrow but a solid hit and its a solid shaft if you can deal with that much taper. Looking now at a LD Shaft with a different Pin to use with my other cues.

Both 314-2 and Lucasi Flexpoint have Uni Loc pins so I can interchange, but point being once you get used to LD shafts - I cant imagine going back..less adjustments in my experience.

Also 2 solid everyday players for under $600..no brainer :thumbup:
 
I bought two LDS's, an OB-1 and a Cuetec R-360. I really don't see or feel much difference in them on a BB, but I do shoot better with my Viking with the maple V shaft. JT
 
I've noticed the non-deflection at times and I think it's due to the tip. I have an LD shaft with a medium/soft tip and it isn't as consistent as my other LD shaft with a hard tip. The harder the tip, the more predictable the cue ball deflection for me.

Slow rolling or jacking up with the softer tip completely changes the game, too. I may change over to my standard shaft tonight and see what I can notice about deflection.

Best,
Mike

You have to be certain that the shaft during the back and forward swing does not change path, if the intention to have it parallel to line of aim (max squirt), it could go a little side way and end up applying a little pivot which will cancel some squirt, and give you the feel it did not deflect much; the opposite is true too. Also bridge distance is vital.
 
Tough for some players............

I have a few low deflection cues and have been using them for several months. but just cannot get the control and consistency from them I do my old Mcdermott standard deflection shafts. Am I the only one that has this problem.:(

The brain sometimes still wants to allow for the huge deflection.

I think to make the switch first you need to know how much difference there is and what shots you can do the same and which ones you can't.

The shape has to be played different also.

But once a player has this figured out the switch is well worth the trouble in the end.

Having someone that knows the exact difference between the 2 show you is huge when making the switch.

Just trying to figure it out after using a conventional shaft for years will drive you crazy.
 
The brain sometimes still wants to allow for the huge deflection.

I think to make the switch first you need to know how much difference there is and what shots you can do the same and which ones you can't.

The shape has to be played different also.

But once a player has this figured out the switch is well worth the trouble in the end.

Having someone that knows the exact difference between the 2 show you is huge when making the switch.

Just trying to figure it out after using a conventional shaft for years will drive you crazy.

Mr. Albrecht, am I still good on that offer you proposed to me? I'll be at the pool hall today around 1pm-5pm, would I be able to call and find out about eye dominance?
 
they deflect, but not a consistent amount....and sometimes not at all.
If you are getting different amounts of squirt when shooting with the exact same tip offset, it's possible that the shaft deflects differently depending on the way it is twisted. Unless the shaft is poorly designed or made, it's more likely that the tip offset on the cue ball was different between shots.
 
If you are getting different amounts of squirt when shooting with the exact same tip offset, it's possible that the shaft deflects differently depending on the way it is twisted. Unless the shaft is poorly designed or made, it's more likely that the tip offset on the cue ball was different between shots.

Matt,
CJ knows,... he's just going fishing with that line he posted . ;)
I think you are right with what you said in your quote. I was very mindful of stroke and accuracy (as well as speed) when I did my little unofficial test.

Concerning my un-scientific test I did (and posted earlier), It was happenstance as I posed the question to myself near the beginning of a practice session. I did this last summer, it took a little over 6 hrs , and I was exhausted and glad it was over. My inquiring mind wanted to know.
I set "a goal" of 400 "good" shots with each of the 3 shafts. I soap-stoned a mark on the rail at the long end of the table and shot for consistency,both in even stroke and speed. Honestly, I threw out 3 in 10 shots on average, (esp. towards the end!).
The result was what I posted.

Pushout : In my quoting your quote, I was not referring to shaft diameter, but quoted you because you had mentioned having a cuemaker make an LD shaft for someone if they did not like laminated LD shaft construction. MY apologies : I should have put that part of your quote in bold . I agree w/you concerning what you said about ferrule length/constuction, etc.
 
I'll confess to not being a low deflection shaft fan. I'll also confess to being like some golfers who buy gadgets to improve their game...so I tried a low deflection shaft.

I need more table time in order to improve...not more shafts.
 
Low deflection...wood

OB Cues shaft wood is cut from select logs, hand picked by them for milling. Their wood selection is NOT to "take cheaper / less quality pieces" to laminate their low deflection shafts. FYI

I've tried 6 by different mfgrs. All top rated / expensive and touted excessively and have the same problem. A long time highly skilled cueist am I 3 cushion, pocket, snooker plus.. The tight grain / high quality / density solid hard woods for me all the way. Preferably OLD wood, however a rarity shows up once in a while. Although I've never read this before anywhere about laminated: my experience in wood working and knowledge of some excellent wood workers, has always indicated that the primary usage of wood strips / laminations was to take cheaper / less quality pieces and by glueing / applying pressure / forming and machining it becomes possible to create strong items with cheap {maybe throw away pieces} pieces of wood. Although there is the ferule, tip, joint, taper etc. involved - cannot it be that somehow the inconsistency of the numerous segments come into play ? How could it actually hit the same at every point on the compass ? Just thinking !!!

Any scientists out there? And I've tried very lengthy, diligent efforts to no spectacular, noticable, great results with the laminates. Certainly have value once adjustments are considered BIG HOWEVER !!!!!!

Tone
 
Low Deflection Shafts?

I have tried a few. The best thing I did to improve my game was to just stick with the regular maple shafts and "PRACTICE".

Aiming systems, low deflection shafts, tips and endless other "CUREALL'S" are not the only answer.

A lesson or 2 with a qualified instructor will do more for your game than most of the cureall's.

Don
 
Pushout : In my quoting your quote, I was not referring to shaft diameter, but quoted you because you had mentioned having a cuemaker make an LD shaft for someone if they did not like laminated LD shaft construction. MY apologies : I should have put that part of your quote in bold . I agree w/you concerning what you said about ferrule length/constuction, etc.

No problem:wink: I hope it didn't sound derogatory, it wasn't meant to be. I just haven't been that "scientific" about the whole thing. As I said, I base my feelings on the performance of the shafts for me. Until I got my Varney I had no idea what the clamor was about. These are the only ones I've played with that felt any where near what I expected. Also, the shafts just came that way, I didn't order them or expect them.
 
I used predator shafts since 1997. Then in 2008 I had the chance to hit with a Mottey with his standard shaft and the hit blew me away. After that I switched to standard shafts. The hit seems more pure and predictable.
 
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