Any point to restoring a Brunswick Master Stroke?

jphaxx

Registered
Hey AZBers. I have an old Brunswick Master Stroke Cue. It's marked "20" I assume for the weight. My buddy had this thing since he was 18 so I assume its atleast 30 years old. Its got 4 points, leather wrap (i think) and a big decal that says "Brunswick Master Stroke". It's old, warped and has a lot of dings. My question: Is there any point to restoring this old guy? Or should I just lay it to rest.

Thanks!!!

PS: Once I have a camera, I'll take some pics and update the thread
 
I love seeing old cues near the brink of death brought back to life. I'd have it restored. Could make for a fine player.
 
Cuebuddy

Hey AZBers. I have an old Brunswick Master Stroke Cue. It's marked "20" I assume for the weight. My buddy had this thing since he was 18 so I assume its atleast 30 years old. Its got 4 points, leather wrap (i think) and a big decal that says "Brunswick Master Stroke". It's old, warped and has a lot of dings. My question: Is there any point to restoring this old guy? Or should I just lay it to rest.

Thanks!!!

PS: Once I have a camera, I'll take some pics and update the thread



If he doesn't see the thread you might PM Cuebuddy. I think he would know if it is worth restoring or saving as is.

Hu
 
I'm using a Brunswick and like it just fine. If this is something you enjoy doing I don't see a downside.
 
Hey AZBers. I have an old Brunswick Master Stroke Cue. It's marked "20" I assume for the weight. My buddy had this thing since he was 18 so I assume its atleast 30 years old. Its got 4 points, leather wrap (i think) and a big decal that says "Brunswick Master Stroke". It's old, warped and has a lot of dings. My question: Is there any point to restoring this old guy? Or should I just lay it to rest.

Thanks!!!

PS: Once I have a camera, I'll take some pics and update the thread

As long as it's not one of the ones with "painted on points" (don't laugh, I have some of the old Brunswicks with painted on points) and at least the prong area is reasonably straight, then it should be conversion worthy.
 
If he doesn't see the thread you might PM Cuebuddy. I think he would know if it is worth restoring or saving as is.

Hu

I just got back home, thanks for covering for me while I was gone Hu;).

The problem that I have with the restoration of a old label cue is saving the label. You can get reproduction labels but they are slightly different. Imho the label is what makes these old cues so cool.

Another problem is the leather wrap. These vintage wraps were crude at best, they were thick and lumpy and once again kind of cool.

One more problem is you said it was not straight so that alone turns this into a bigger job. To restore this cue would be to take away its history and spirit. These old cues make great looking wall hangers and not so great players, so i would vote for keeping it original.
 
As long as it's not one of the ones with "painted on points" (don't laugh, I have some of the old Brunswicks with painted on points) and at least the prong area is reasonably straight, then it should be conversion worthy.

The Brunswick Challenger was BBC'S entry level cue and it indeed had fake points painted on a one piece maple cue.
 
The Brunswick Challenger was BBC'S entry level cue and it indeed had fake points painted on a one piece maple cue.

Hey all, thanks for all the great replies.

Cuebuddy, should I ever want to play with this thing as-is, should I just replace the shaft somehow? I should have been more specific on the warping. The shaft is the warped part of the cue. The butt looks straight.
 
Hey all, thanks for all the great replies.

Cuebuddy, should I ever want to play with this thing as-is, should I just replace the shaft somehow? I should have been more specific on the warping. The shaft is the warped part of the cue. The butt looks straight.

If the butt is fairly straight then by all means have a new shaft made and play it. Many of these cues had a bad roll to them but the wrap caused them to roll bad more times then the cue being warped. You could always take it to a competent cue builder and see what he thinks and what it would cost for it to be restored. The good thing is these old cues were fat and usually are no problem to be turned down to remove the scratches and dings. I pull mine out of the rack and play it more then any of my other vintage cues. Many of the war time cues sported a non metallic joint, sort of a grayish beige colored material (Bakelite???). Looking forward to some pics soon.
 
The problem that I have with the restoration of a old label cue is saving the label. You can get reproduction labels but they are slightly different. Imho the label is what makes these old cues so cool.

What's the label, do you have a pic of it?

And what's different/wrong with the reproductions?

I've had to reproduce old labels and logos before and it's something I'd like to try, assuming we're talking about the same thing.
 
Are these old Master Stroke cues worth much, a friend just picked one up in a pawn shop and was wondering how valuable it was. The decal/sticker is in very good shape, 2 piece, black leather wrap and ivory ferrule. It came with a black round leather case with red felt on the inside, looks as old as the cue. Thanks for your help. Tom
 
I'm curious about these cues myself,as I see them come up on ebay sometimes. They don't seem to ask for as much as Titlists, but I'd be curious if a conversion or restoration is worth the cash.
 
Restore it, so it can be saved. prolly only worth a hundo or two in the condition it is in.

Whats the point of finding a 57 Corvette in a garage that is rusted, dented with torn leather seats... fix that puppy up...

For a around 4 hundo, with a new shaft, it will look lilke new, and replace the decal, and you are good to go for another 50 years.. plus if you even wanna sell it, it will be an easy sell, and will get the money you put into back....

You thus perserved a piece of history....
 
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