Any tips to remove this Brunswick bumper?

eddieindetroit

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Some of these old Brunswick cues have some pretty nice wood. I’m not finding it easy to remove one of these bumpers, they’re pretty hard with age. I wouldn’t mind saving the original bumpers and reusing them if I could.
Any tips?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_8142.jpeg
    IMG_8142.jpeg
    108.4 KB · Views: 64
Some of these old Brunswick cues have some pretty nice wood. I’m not finding it easy to remove one of these bumpers, they’re pretty hard with age. I wouldn’t mind saving the original bumpers and reusing them if I could.
Any tips?
Boy i'd be afraid to. That rubber has probably hardened to the point where any attempt to remove would crumble it. Might ask on the Cuemaker section.
 
I have removed them on several occasions and they always break. They are fitted to a knob that was turned into the end of the butt. Next time I pull one I was going to try and heat the bumper with a hair drier to see if that helps.
 
I have removed them on several occasions and they always break. They are fitted to a knob that was turned into the end of the butt. Next time I pull one I was going to try and heat the bumper with a hair drier to see if that helps.
You might try one of those pads they put in the microwave for a heating pad. you could wrap the whole cap at once and start using more and more time and pressure to try to separate the glue. Don't forget to use a thick glove,
 
Heat and automatic transmission fluid, it has elastomers in it. I have softened up antique bumpers on aluminum foil in a transmission fluid bath over a light bulb. Came out like new.

But bumper on the cue? I don't know. They will crumble getting them off.

Those "Snap-On" bumpers? You can still find them I think. It's the brown KU ones that get pricey. I have a stash of them. I used some with an Engles case to trade for a nice first catalog Palmer about six years ago. If you want good KU bumpers, you need to bring a nice cue, I don't sell, I trade. And I don't let go easy.
 
Last edited:
You might try one of those pads they put in the microwave for a heating pad. you could wrap the whole cap at once and start using more and more time and pressure to try to separate the glue. Don't forget to use a thick glove,
None of the ones I removed had glue. When the rubber was new it was just snapped over the wooden knob and a flange that was built into the bumper held the knob.

I took pics of the broken bumper and the cue knob when it happened. I thought the pic might be of value to someone here, someday.
If I can find the pic I will try and resize it and post it here.
 
None of the ones I removed had glue. When the rubber was new it was just snapped over the wooden knob and a flange that was built into the bumper held the knob.

If it is just pressure fit, I might work at it in increments, warm it up , let it cool , warmer , cool warmer cool , do that for a while and it may soften it enough to not break it, If after a few tries , the outside isn't a bit more pliable, it probably won't work.
I would not do the all or nothing approach if it never worked before.
 
None of the ones I removed had glue. When the rubber was new it was just snapped over the wooden knob and a flange that was built into the bumper held the knob…
That seems to be the situation here. The original bumpers do rotate around the “knob.” At least the ones I’ve had my hands on so far. I can’t seem to force one of them off yet though. It would obviously just be quicker to use an HSS parting tool I know but the bumpers have lasted 60 odd years already.
Most of these sticks are pretty wood and at least 1.40 inches.
 
The problem removing these old Brunswick bumpers is that the rubber closest to the knob holding it onto the cue will just break apart when applying even a an extremely thin yet strong ply bar tool to lever off the bumper from the cue. It is just about impossible to soften the internal rubber closest to the holding knob since the rubber beyond the core area is so thick. Dry heat from any source won't get to the core of that rubber bumper nor will it soften it. Try one cue standing -- bumper down for several days in a one inch deep or so foil pan filled with a penetrating oil, see if that will help soften the rubber bumper core that sits around the holding knob enough to pry it off in one piece.

The other alternative would be, with a proper sawing machine, to cut the cue about an eight of an inch above the rubber; then , using a belt sander, sand off the 1/8 inch wood attached to the bumper until you just have the rubber bumper attached to the knob. That bumper can now be reattached to a cue, using a carefully drilled pilot hole and then hole through the bumper and knob and screw onto a new cue.

These are the two choices that I see. One choice requires a fine wood sawing power tool and a belt sander. Good Luck!
 
Th
The problem removing these old Brunswick bumpers is that the rubber closest to the knob holding it onto the cue will just break apart when applying even a an extremely thin yet strong ply bar tool to lever off the bumper from the cue. It is just about impossible to soften the internal rubber closest to the holding knob since the rubber beyond the core area is so thick. Dry heat from any source won't get to the core of that rubber bumper nor will it soften it. Try one cue standing -- bumper down for several days in a one inch deep or so foil pan filled with a penetrating oil, see if that will help soften the rubber bumper core that sits around the holding knob enough to pry it off in one piece.

The other alternative would be, with a proper sawing machine, to cut the cue about an eight of an inch above the rubber; then , using a belt sander, sand off the 1/8 inch wood attached to the bumper until you just have the rubber bumper attached to the knob. That bumper can now be reattached to a cue, using a carefully drilled pilot hole and then hole through the bumper and knob and screw onto a new cue.

These are the two choices that I see. One choice requires a fine wood sawing power tool and a belt sander. Good Luck!

Third option.

 
I have removed them on several occasions and they always break. They are fitted to a knob that was turned into the end of the butt. Next time I pull one I was going to try and heat the bumper with a hair drier to see if that helps.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20250311_144026.jpg
    IMG_20250311_144026.jpg
    115 KB · Views: 26
  • IMG_20250311_144222.jpg
    IMG_20250311_144222.jpg
    132.4 KB · Views: 26
  • IMG_20250311_143931.jpg
    IMG_20250311_143931.jpg
    102.1 KB · Views: 26
I believe I understand the query. but for the sake of clarity for the less informed, it should be noted that one of the pictured cues is a Willie Hoppe Professional. I do not know if they are considered "bumperless", but I do not believe they have a classic "rubber", or pliable, bumper. On my WHP, which has a Hoppe Ring, the black object located on the butt end of the WHP is a hard "plastic" disc which functions to protect the Hoppe Ring.

Although we see it less these days, the classic acknowledgement of a fine shot in pool ("applause", if you will) is to tap the butt end of your cue on the floor. This resulted in an audible "tap, tap, tap", so long as the player's cues did not have rubber bumpers -- watch the older players in a room and this behavior can still be observed today, even though the audible aspect of their applause is gone owing to the proliferation of rubber bumpers. In other words, tapping, with or without bumpers, provides an unobtrusive manner in which demonstrate appreciation of a well made shot. Without them, the applause can be both seen and heard, but with them, you gotta be watching.
 
Last edited:
Apparently, snapping fingers is found in some circles, but I've never seen it in a pool hall. Further, tapping can evidently be observed in some scenes from "The Hustler".

 
Last edited:
Back
Top