Anything stick out as a good map? ( it's hard to make these things interesting and yet very doable) 
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Anyone see a map here
- Thread starter 3andstop
- Start date
shoot the 3 in the side, roll forward into the 14-15. 14 should roll forward into a breakshot. play the 15 or the 2. the 15 preferably because the 2 will bring you onto the right side of the 13 as the keyball !!!
-Steve
i wish i knew how to do diagraming changes and lines on the layouts to make this Map show easier !!!
anyone have advice on the how to ?
-Steve
i wish i knew how to do diagraming changes and lines on the layouts to make this Map show easier !!!
anyone have advice on the how to ?
I agree Steve, what you propose seems the easiest path. What do you think about the same plan but playing 3 in the side then the 2 to the 13 to 14 leaving the 15 as a behind the stack break shot?
Anything stick out as a good map? ( it's hard to make these things interesting and yet very doable)
I Like behind the rack breakshots, but i am not fond of one like this. you have to get too good on it, i feel as though that you have to have a steeper angle. and with that in mind the rack of balls is going to impeed your brigde hand and you will not be able to put a good stroke on that type of break. i think in more times the object ball will be missed trying to get the most out of the rack on the break (The Old Bobbler) !!!
Patterns
If you can get by the 14-15 balls without breaking them up when playing the 3 in the side. Then you can play the 14 in the lower corner bumping the 15 for a behind the rack break shot. Then the 13 in the upper corner and the 2 ball as the key.
The main thing is to take care of the cluster as soon as possible when there are a few balls on the table. That is why Steve's pattern is best. Specially when you are trying to set up a break shot. Remember, every time you take a ball off the table, your odds go down setting up a shot to break out problem areas.
Not the best pattern but it is there.
If you can get by the 14-15 balls without breaking them up when playing the 3 in the side. Then you can play the 14 in the lower corner bumping the 15 for a behind the rack break shot. Then the 13 in the upper corner and the 2 ball as the key.
The main thing is to take care of the cluster as soon as possible when there are a few balls on the table. That is why Steve's pattern is best. Specially when you are trying to set up a break shot. Remember, every time you take a ball off the table, your odds go down setting up a shot to break out problem areas.
Not the best pattern but it is there.
if you look at the tangent line between the 14-15 it is natural that the 14 will come out for a breakshot as long as you hit the backside of the 14 which is natural to do so from the angle off the 3 ball. seems pretty straight forward for me, but then is it just my creative side trying to hustle me out of easy layout !!!
-Steve
-Steve
13 into the corner with easy draw trying for position on the 14.Play the 14 and roll into the 3 .Play the15,one rail off the 2 and you should have good
position for the 3 as your break ball. Come up short off the angle to bump the 3,and you can still play the 14 and try to draw back into the 3 when you shoot the 15.
Draw too far and you can play the 2.
As I see the table I do not believe starting with the 3 would create a better
break ball then is already there in the 2 or 13.That is why I would try this
other pattern.
position for the 3 as your break ball. Come up short off the angle to bump the 3,and you can still play the 14 and try to draw back into the 3 when you shoot the 15.
Draw too far and you can play the 2.
As I see the table I do not believe starting with the 3 would create a better
break ball then is already there in the 2 or 13.That is why I would try this
other pattern.
Steve,
I'm not sure exactly which side of the 13 you are proposing to get on; but it brings up a VERY important straight pool principle.
If the 13 in the side is your key ball for a side of the rack break shot (assuming the 14 rolled into position for a right side of the pack break shot); then for your key ball shot you want the cue ball to be ABOVE the 13 in the diagram above (and by ABOVE, I mean you want to shoot the 13 in the lower side pocket in the diagram above).
Many players mistakenly think that the 13 should be shot into the upper side pocket so they can roll naturally forward into position. Unfortunately if you find yourself even slightly out of position on the 13 (anything other than dead straight) you will find it quite difficult to recover. If there is a "stop shot", key ball-to-key ball sitting there to assure you get perfectly on the 13 then it is okay.
Take a cue ball and now place it on the upper half of the table as if you are shooting the 13 in the lower side pocket. You will see that you have reasonable options from almost any angle (straight in, slightly up table or down table). LOTS of options, it is the old school way to use the 13 as a key ball.
The pro I play regularly with (very old school) would just make fun of me if I ever tried to play position for the 13 key ball in the upper side pocket (the reason I know this is I was just yelled at 3 days ago for that exact "mistake")
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very valid points, but i like to enter the ball on the line of the shot and i feel it lays more natural to do it on the way that i described...now if i can only figure out cue-table so i can diagram my thoughts !!!
-Steve