Ask The Cuemaker Topic
- Thread starter blud
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b-jammin
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blud said:
Blud thanks for the quick reply! I figured it might be something like that with the shafts since they are alot flimsier that the butt section. Usually I just use the 3 wing to turn the wood round and then switch to the 6 wing when I get down to finish size. I also use the 6 wing when I make up my billets for rings, I use one specific blade for each different job. Everything you have said makes sense to me and I will try it and let you know if I have any problems. Thanks again Blud, B-jammin
Great, you gonna make me jealous of Blud's table saw taperer.cuewhiz189 said:
Jeesh, cutting down 1 inch rods to around .920 by .600 cones take a ton of time on lathe with a router. F~!@&r is so freakin' noisy too. Screams like a giant cat on heat.
If I had the cash, I'd get me that simple table saw taperer or the Perske motor.
motors
Hi Joseph,
At one time I did use perske motors. I used them when I had a 4-head CNC, parts and pocket machine and I also used it for turn cuttinmg butts and shafts. They have to much run out for me.
Mike Sigel has one of my 4-head machines, but it's got one electric motor driving 4-spindal heads and will cut shafts, butts, parts and pockets.
He also has one of my 4-headed saw/lathes, that Juston was refering too eariler.
For inlays of parts and pockets i use much smaller and much quiter motors, that rap up to 50,000 RPM's. The perskes are ok, but not near as close on tolorances as my new ones. The new motors avarage about .0000038 millions of an inch run out. Yea, 38 million of an inch. At that speed [50k] they work very well.
SAW?LATHE!
I now have been selling for about 4 years a new saw/lathe I developed,in either mechanical, or CNC, that will cut shafts, butts, and handles. $8,500.00, not bad for a real nice machine. It weighs in at a little over 700 lbs. Very steady, place a nickle on edge and during the entire 7 minute cut, the nickle is still standing. Very smooth finish cuts from start to finish. Call for info.. 830-232-5991
blud
Joseph Cues said:
Hi Joseph,
At one time I did use perske motors. I used them when I had a 4-head CNC, parts and pocket machine and I also used it for turn cuttinmg butts and shafts. They have to much run out for me.
Mike Sigel has one of my 4-head machines, but it's got one electric motor driving 4-spindal heads and will cut shafts, butts, parts and pockets.
He also has one of my 4-headed saw/lathes, that Juston was refering too eariler.
For inlays of parts and pockets i use much smaller and much quiter motors, that rap up to 50,000 RPM's. The perskes are ok, but not near as close on tolorances as my new ones. The new motors avarage about .0000038 millions of an inch run out. Yea, 38 million of an inch. At that speed [50k] they work very well.
SAW?LATHE!
I now have been selling for about 4 years a new saw/lathe I developed,in either mechanical, or CNC, that will cut shafts, butts, and handles. $8,500.00, not bad for a real nice machine. It weighs in at a little over 700 lbs. Very steady, place a nickle on edge and during the entire 7 minute cut, the nickle is still standing. Very smooth finish cuts from start to finish. Call for info.. 830-232-5991
blud
Would any of the cue makers on this board mind telling the different ways that the butt of a cue can be constructed? Im talking about how the pieces are assembled. Full splice, half splice, screws, dowels, etc...
What are the steps usually taken? If adhesives are used, which do you prefer (not brand name, just type)?
Just the other day I had a cue maker tell me of a cue he was asked to look at that had broken. He said that the cue (from a WELL known builder) was joined together with a biscuit at the forearm. Im sure no one would think that this is a proper method.
What are the steps usually taken? If adhesives are used, which do you prefer (not brand name, just type)?
Just the other day I had a cue maker tell me of a cue he was asked to look at that had broken. He said that the cue (from a WELL known builder) was joined together with a biscuit at the forearm. Im sure no one would think that this is a proper method.
and yes i can even be witness to those new motors that blud uses as to how queit and fast they are .....i told you guys he has some of the coolest stuff on the planet.....id like to pry that big melon(lol) of his opena dn be able to do that kind of shit......upsets me that his own son wont take advantage of it....but donald is a pretty smart fella in his own right.....could be a deadly combination but understanding all .....sometime things are best as they are ......juston
hope all is well and hope you knock em dead at the hopkins show....cant wait to see those drawings you showed me in a working model......from paper to machine.......you should right a book on it.....would give hightowers book a headache.......would also be a big seller....j
hope all is well and hope you knock em dead at the hopkins show....cant wait to see those drawings you showed me in a working model......from paper to machine.......you should right a book on it.....would give hightowers book a headache.......would also be a big seller....j
machine
Hi Juston, my new machine will have very close tolorances [spelling], In my way of thinking, you need mass to have re-peatability.My machines are heavy. Working with wood you need to be dead on when it's machined. Wood is constantly moving. So that being the case, we need to machine as close as possible.
I am considering writting a book about the construction of cues, and also one on my life. I have had the best life with my wife one could ever ask for.Married for 44 years, been there and done a bunch.
Being in this busisness, broke one day and pumped up the next, on the road and off again,it's been a real ride.
Coming from a pretty well off family, to leaving home at an early age to now, it's been differant. never ask or got help from the family. I got it my way. work and work and..............
Maybe, if I could collect from some, I could slow down a mite.
If I could just collect from some of those who owe me in this business, that would be great. But some just have the power, a big name and take advantage of others, and think nothing of it. It's ashame that you bust your ass for some folks, and can't get paid. These can make or break you with words..Wouldn't you hate to live like that, knowing your taking advantage of others.
When the lathe is ready, I'll post pictures and info.
thanks
blud
cuewhiz189 said:
Hi Juston, my new machine will have very close tolorances [spelling], In my way of thinking, you need mass to have re-peatability.My machines are heavy. Working with wood you need to be dead on when it's machined. Wood is constantly moving. So that being the case, we need to machine as close as possible.
I am considering writting a book about the construction of cues, and also one on my life. I have had the best life with my wife one could ever ask for.Married for 44 years, been there and done a bunch.
Being in this busisness, broke one day and pumped up the next, on the road and off again,it's been a real ride.
Coming from a pretty well off family, to leaving home at an early age to now, it's been differant. never ask or got help from the family. I got it my way. work and work and..............
Maybe, if I could collect from some, I could slow down a mite.
If I could just collect from some of those who owe me in this business, that would be great. But some just have the power, a big name and take advantage of others, and think nothing of it. It's ashame that you bust your ass for some folks, and can't get paid. These can make or break you with words..Wouldn't you hate to live like that, knowing your taking advantage of others.
When the lathe is ready, I'll post pictures and info.
thanks
blud
Hey, Blud & others. Someone mentioned shaft growth rings in some thread (can remember which). Is there any conclusions to be made about the shaft growth rings ? So is a shaft more stabile if it has more growth rings or is it a question of pure esthetics ? I have a Bear cue with two shafts, one shaft has 5 growth rings (through half a circle, 180 degrees) and the other has 12. Would you say that there is a difference of quality between these 2 shafts ?
blud said:
I don't normaly post on this forum but this thread brought me out of the wood work.
Leonard is 100% right about the slot cutter. My personal favorite is the one sold by Grizzly Industrial part #C1097. On my butt tapering lathe I use it in a Porter Cable router. The lathe runs 200 rpm and the feed rate is .004 ipr. This is what works the best on my machine. You will probably want to experement with yours.
For shafts I use a saw machine with a 10" 80 tooth blade that I have had custom ground.
Blud, everyone says the finer the grain of maple, the better the shaft. The thing that I don't understand is, I look at alot of expensive cues these days, ranging from $1000-$3000, and there is all this fancy work done on the base of the cue, then I go and look at the shaft, and it has all of these rings in it. Basically on some of these cues there is barely any grain at all. Why would a cuemaker put so much work into a cue, but make a matching shaft for it that is a piece of crap? What do you think about that? Are they just trying to get a knowledgeable player to purchase a better quality shaft?
shaft deflection
Cuemakers,
Thanks so much for your input. As a player I only care about performance (a nice looking cue is just more likely to get stolen, and its hard to get enough credits from the wife to buy one). What are your views on deflection (ie. Predator vs. Meucci)?? Do you routinely perform deflection testing on your shafts/cues??
Cuemakers,
Thanks so much for your input. As a player I only care about performance (a nice looking cue is just more likely to get stolen, and its hard to get enough credits from the wife to buy one). What are your views on deflection (ie. Predator vs. Meucci)?? Do you routinely perform deflection testing on your shafts/cues??
mjantti said:
Good mornin,
The 5 growth rings is closer to the sap wood. [the outside of the tree]. Normally the more growth rings, the straighter the shaft. It's tighter and a little stiffer with more rings.
I wish I could buy maple dowels with 15 plus rings. It's almost impossible to find today.
Producers of today, sell most veneer logs to the furniture industry, we, [cuemakers and consumers] get the left overs. That's because we can not afford to buy huge lots of wood.
blud
shafts
I try my best to sell good shafts. Deflection, is a big topic.
Every cuemakers has his own Ideas.
I have from time to time customers who order two shafts for a custom ordered cue. They want the cue to weight, [say] 19.3oz's. But they also want one shaft to be 13mm, and the other 12.75mm, so I weigh each shaft and wind up with the 12.75 weighing in a little more than the 13mm. But the cue with either shaft, weighs out the same.
I don't go for deflection test. I know how my cues are going to play. There are a lot of factors contributing to deflection. The size of the shafts, taper, weight, and of course the joint configeration. All of these things in my opinion, play a big part in the way a cue plays..........
I have a stress test I preform on a cue with two shafts. It's fairly simple. I place the shafts[ one at a time] in a jig and I place a given amount of weight [the same each time I check shafts] on the end of the shaft. I rotate the shafts to all four sides, [90 degress] and take an average of the flex or bend. I then do the second one the same. This tells me if both shafts are close to the same stiffness and both flex about the same. If so, they are sold to you as a set of closley matched shafts.
I know of not other cuemakers who does this.
Works for me.
blud
Williebetmore said:
I try my best to sell good shafts. Deflection, is a big topic.
Every cuemakers has his own Ideas.
I have from time to time customers who order two shafts for a custom ordered cue. They want the cue to weight, [say] 19.3oz's. But they also want one shaft to be 13mm, and the other 12.75mm, so I weigh each shaft and wind up with the 12.75 weighing in a little more than the 13mm. But the cue with either shaft, weighs out the same.
I don't go for deflection test. I know how my cues are going to play. There are a lot of factors contributing to deflection. The size of the shafts, taper, weight, and of course the joint configeration. All of these things in my opinion, play a big part in the way a cue plays..........
I have a stress test I preform on a cue with two shafts. It's fairly simple. I place the shafts[ one at a time] in a jig and I place a given amount of weight [the same each time I check shafts] on the end of the shaft. I rotate the shafts to all four sides, [90 degress] and take an average of the flex or bend. I then do the second one the same. This tells me if both shafts are close to the same stiffness and both flex about the same. If so, they are sold to you as a set of closley matched shafts.
I know of not other cuemakers who does this.
Works for me.
blud
shafts again
Maple make good shafts. We all have trouble buying great wood.
I also build "ASH" shafts. Think about it. The snooker players around the world play with 7, and 8mm and up snooker shafts. It's got a good responce, memory, stiffness, and stays straight. It's not very pretty or as nice looking as some maple shafts, and it has a dark open looking grain. SO WHAT. It just plays better.My opinion, it works for me.
blud
LastTwo said:
Maple make good shafts. We all have trouble buying great wood.
I also build "ASH" shafts. Think about it. The snooker players around the world play with 7, and 8mm and up snooker shafts. It's got a good responce, memory, stiffness, and stays straight. It's not very pretty or as nice looking as some maple shafts, and it has a dark open looking grain. SO WHAT. It just plays better.My opinion, it works for me.
blud
Ash Shafts
Blud,
What Would You Charge For 2 13mm 30" Ash Shafts, The Trim Collars Are Simple Rings With Veneers. If You Need Pick I Can Send Them. Also Can You Do Custom Tapers, Or Match The Taper On My Current Shaft? Thanks For Your Time.
Blud,
What Would You Charge For 2 13mm 30" Ash Shafts, The Trim Collars Are Simple Rings With Veneers. If You Need Pick I Can Send Them. Also Can You Do Custom Tapers, Or Match The Taper On My Current Shaft? Thanks For Your Time.
shafts
I can and will build you ash shafts. should run around $125.00 each if the rings are not to much of a job. Please do send pictures. It would be nice to have one of your shafts so i could match your taper to a tee..I can do any taper, sir..
blud
FAST_N_LOOSE said:
I can and will build you ash shafts. should run around $125.00 each if the rings are not to much of a job. Please do send pictures. It would be nice to have one of your shafts so i could match your taper to a tee..I can do any taper, sir..
blud
butts
I just received a PM, about using ash for butts as well as shafts. I see nothing wrong with that either.
The snooker cues have ash handles. I just think I'll build one and test the market. if it plays as I think, we might have a new cue concept
Let me hear your thoughts, folks.
rock-on
blud
I just received a PM, about using ash for butts as well as shafts. I see nothing wrong with that either.
The snooker cues have ash handles. I just think I'll build one and test the market. if it plays as I think, we might have a new cue concept
Let me hear your thoughts, folks.
rock-on
blud