Banking for newbies

klockdoc

ughhhhhhhhhh
Silver Member
Here is a quick system that I encourage newer players to use for banking. I thought this up a while back goofing around on the table. Thought would pass it on for those of you interested. Sometimes, they just cannot see the angle.

It is something that I show the newbies that frequent the pool room where I hang out. Now it isn't by no means an answer to all your dreams, but, it helps the new ones see where the angle is going into the bank.

It works if the ball is anywhere except over the center of the table. I have another system I came up with to cover that. Hopefully it will help those in need of a little extra training.

Also help those new one pocket players.

I use center ball medium stroke. Doesn't matter where the object ball is, as long as the bank doesn't go over half the table. The second WEI shows another shot with explanation using his system

If there are anymore questions, please ask.

CueTable Help


CueTable Help

 
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I think I get it?

You say take half the distance "from" [such-and-such] but you don't say what the "to" [such-and-such] is. I assume the "to" point is the pocket you're banking into? So halfway between where the butt points and the pocket?
 
CreeDo said:
I think I get it?

You say take half the distance "from" [such-and-such] but you don't say what the "to" [such-and-such] is. I assume the "to" point is the pocket you're banking into? So halfway between where the butt points and the pocket?

No, sorry for the confusion. I guess when I know what I am talking about, it doesn't come off as clear as what I think it does.

First, Diamond # 2 where you are standing is a reference point. You are aiming into the 1st diamond with the object ball because 1 diamond is 1/2 of the 2 diamonds. Follow? equal angle in-equal angle out. (it could be any two points as long the point away from you is 1/2 of the point where you are standing)

Now, once you have that measurement, you take half of the distance between the butt of the cue (which is extended from the object ball) and the second diamond. This is the point on the opposite rail that you need top hit in order to make the bank. (See the orange line in the second diagram).

You add that 1/2 distance to the 1 diamond that you already have established.

See the aiming point, it is at 1 3/8, one half of the 2 3/4 from the pocket where the butt of stick is extended across.

Hope this explains it a little more. If you have any other questions, please ask. :D
 
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Pretty nifty.

Under the assumption of "angle out = angle in", it should work even if the object ball is on the lower half of the table in your Wei diagram (across the long string), as long as the aim point on the first cushion is in the upper half.

I'm sure you're aware that the rebound angle is generally not equal to the incoming angle, but your system is a valid when it is, or to get a first approximation to the true aim point on the first cushion.

Jim
 
banks

klockdoc said:
No, sorry for the confusion. I guess when I know what I am talking about, it doesn't come off as clear as what I think it does. no it does not.

First, Diamond # 2 where you are standing is a reference point. You are aiming into the 1st diamond with the object ball because 1 diamond is 1/2 of the 2 diamonds. Follow? equal angle in-equal angle out. (it could be any two points as long the point away from you is 1/2 of the point where you are standing)

Now, once you have that measurement, you take half of the distance between the butt of the cue (which is extended from the object ball) and the second diamond. This is the point on the opposite rail that you need top hit in order to make the bank. (See the orange line in the second diagram).

You add that 1/2 distance to the 1 diamond that you already have established.

See the aiming point, it is at 1 3/8, one half of the 2 3/4 from the pocket where the butt of stick is extended across.

Hope this explains it a little more. If you have any other questions, please ask. :D

there is already a banking system that does not contend with an aiming point, or b butt sticks, or anything else you mentioned.
 
Misleading

You guys really need to buy and read my books on bank pool, Banking With The Beard and the GosPool. Klockdoc's angle solutions are incorrect.
the Beard
 
freddy the beard said:
You guys really need to buy and read my books on bank pool, Banking With The Beard and the GosPool. Klockdoc's angle solutions are incorrect.
the Beard

Agreed... Freddy, what do you think about guys that can pretty much knock them in by feel?
 
I just run a Parallel shift from the opposite pocket.

I put my tip in the opposite pocket where I'm wanting to bank the object ball into. I than take half the distance between the opposite pocket and the object ball, than parallel shift that line to the cue ball. It usually works for noobies in my pool league, as they can see where it generally needs to be hit.
 
Feel is not bad

Blackjack said:
Agreed... Freddy, what do you think about guys that can pretty much knock them in by feel?

Playing by feel is not bad, but someone who plays by feel will lose to that rare player who incorporates feel with bank pool science.

the Beard
 
freddy the beard said:
Playing by feel is not bad, but someone who plays by feel will lose to that rare player who incorporates feel with bank pool science.

the Beard

Great answer from the master! I asked because I loved watching Mark Tadd play banks - I loved the way he would fire away from the hip. I guess a combination of both science and feel would indeed be deadly!!!
 
Gerry Watson is also an amazing bank expert. Got to see him hit some warm up banks at the Canadians. I also have a tape of him rapid fire banking. Impressive to say the least. I would guess he uses some natural feel based on just looking at him shoot the shots, and the speed in which he does it.
 
klockdoc said:
Explain please?:confused:

He explains it all very well in his book. Buy it.

Dave, just a satisfied customer who's banking percentage is climbing because of Freddys methods
 
DaveK said:
He explains it all very well in his book. Buy it.

Dave, just a satisfied customer who's banking percentage is climbing because of Freddys methods

Change your name? Freddie:confused:
 
DaveK said:
He explains it all very well in his book. Buy it.

Dave, just a satisfied customer who's banking percentage is climbing because of Freddys methods

I just wanted to hear his take on this. You know, there are a lot of diamond systems and banking systems out there. Everyone thinks his book or system is better than everyone else's. I find that new players to the game do not want to take the time to read advanced systems when they don't even understand the simple system. Ever try to explain the diamond system to someone just starting out? Too many numbers, addition, subtraction, etc. They just want it in simple terms or they just "feel" the shot. I thought this put it in "simple" terms.

Maybe when a player is seeded and advanced, as I suppose you are, I would suggest that they purchase a book giving them more of an advanced approach to the game.

I am new to the WEI system and did not find out that it has the ability to create a "grid" on the table to properly place shot angles. I had already placed this diagram in my post before I realized this. I thought I placed the lines accurately before posting, but, now I see that the lines were off.

I specifically stated in the explanation though, that the butt of the stick comes over the 2 3/4 diamond mark, taking half of that is an aim point of 1 3/8 over from the pocket. If "The Beard" thinks this calculation is incorrect, maybe I don't want to buy his book!
 
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klockdoc said:
I just wanted to hear his take on this. You know, there are a lot of diamond systems and banking systems out there. Everyone thinks his book or system is better than everyone else's. I find that new players to the game do not want to take the time to read advanced systems when they don't even understand the simple system. Ever try to explain the diamond system to someone just starting out? Too many numbers, addition, subtraction, etc. They just want it in simple terms or they just "feel" the shot. I thought this put it in "simple" terms.

Maybe when a player is seeded and advanced, as I suppose you are, I would suggest that they purchase a book giving them more of an advanced approach to the game.

I am new to the WEI system and did not find out that it has the ability to create a "grid" on the table to properly place shot angles. I had already placed this diagram in my post before I realized this. I thought I placed the lines accurately before posting, but, now I see that the lines were off.

I specifically stated in the explanation though, that the butt of the stick comes over the 2 3/4 diamond mark, taking half of that is an aim point of 1 3/8 over from the pocket. If "The Beard" thinks this calculation is incorrect, maybe I don't want to buy his book!


Klockdoc

FWIW, I don't think my books are any better than anybody else's - and I don't teach systems. Freddy's book is highly regarded as the best book on the subject. It does not disqualify your system, but Freddy's opinion hold a lot of weight worldwide and it holds a lot of weight with me.

I asked the question about feel because when it comes to banks, I am a feel player. I suffer from CRS, so I can't memorize systems or remember my own phone number half the time. I'm not sure if your system works, but I will print your posts and diagrams and try it out on Saturday and get back with you. In the meantime, best of luck to you.
 
klockdoc said:
Change your name? Freddie:confused:

No, I'm still Dave, and will continue to suggest that folks buy Freddys book whenever someone asks him to post his information here for free ... but you need to read his introduction to understand why. I'm sorry you are confused, but again, the book will help.

Dave, fan of Freddy and not afraid to say so :p
 
I like bank/kick systems that don't take so much measuring. Here's a simple visualization system for one-rail banks/kicks (to the bottom left corner pocket in this case) that helps me a lot and is quick to do in your head.

You simply match half-diamond spans on the far rail with whole-diamond spans on the near rail and visualize the "bank/kick lane" that they define (the colored areas in the diagram). Then, for any ball that's within one of the bank/kick lanes, estimate the path that splits the difference between the lane's two sides - for example, the 8 ball and 9-ball in the diagram.

As usual, these "geometrically true" angles must be adjusted for reality - on slow cloth balls tend to go short without running sidespin; on fast cloth they tend to go long.

pj
chgo

CueTable Help

 
You simply match half-diamond spans on the far rail with whole-diamond spans on the near rail and visualize the "bank/kick lane" that they define (the colored areas in the diagram). Then, for any ball that's within one of the bank/kick lanes, estimate the path that splits the difference between the lane's two sides - for example, the 8 ball and 9-ball in the diagram.

CLARIFICATION: By "splits the difference" I don't mean to aim at the point on the far rail that's midway between the two sides of the lane. I mean to aim at the point that is the same fraction from the sides on the far rail and on the near rail (e.g., the 8-ball path is about 1/4 the distance from the right side on both the far and near rails).

pj
chgo
 
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