hows the humidity level there? I play out of Hawaii and its super humid. Some banks from the banks that do not go but do won't work ever in hawaii.
Originally Posted by Patrick Johnson
Putting follow on the CB for a slow bank shot won't do anything. In fact, you should probably ignore the suggestion that follow or draw on the CB has any effect on banks at all.
cuebacca:
I think that if the object ball is close to the rail it can have an effect. Wouldn't you agree?
Patrick Johnson said:I agree with your reasoning - that an OB close to the rail might not pick up "rolling follow" on its way to the rail so the transferred follow may make a difference - but I think any effect must be so small as to be negligible and/or smothered in other effects, like rail friction deleting it.
Mika Immonen teaches the use of follow and draw to change the angle of rebound on shots that are any distance from the rail - I can't imagine that works and only mention it to point out that even top level bankers who teach banking may have some unsupported ideas.pj
chgo
Patrick Johnson said:I agree with your reasoning - that an OB close to the rail might not pick up "rolling follow" on its way to the rail so the transferred follow may make a difference - but I think any effect must be so small as to be negligible and/or smothered in other effects, like rail friction deleting it.
Mika Immonen teaches the use of follow and draw to change the angle of rebound on shots that are any distance from the rail - I can't imagine that works and only mention it to point out that even top level bankers who teach banking may have some unsupported ideas.
pj
chgo
poolstar31 said:Are you serious? Any good banker knows that it changes the angles.
Clark_the_Shark said:Yeah... but the SLOW speed with a 1/2 tip follow didn't work either. But I think SCCues is right... I'l just have to adjust to the table. I just thought these first few were standard and should be automatic on any table.
You're absolutely right, you must cut any bank more, that's on or very close to the rail.Cuebacca said:Thanks, Pat. I'm not sure about any distance, but I do think I have experienced it actually making a difference on banks where object balls are close to the cushion. I haven't done any proper testing of this theory, so I will simply agree to disagree.
Mika Immonen teaches the use of follow and draw to change the angle of rebound on shots that are any distance from the rail - I can't imagine that works and only mention it to point out that even top level bankers who teach banking may have some unsupported ideas.
pj
chgo
Poolstar31:
Are you serious? Any good banker knows that it changes the angles.
JoeyA:
If you hit the object ball quicker you will shorten the angle. If you hit the object ball slower you will widen the angle.
Patrick Johnson said:Have you seen Bob Jewett's (and Dr. Dave's) video where he shows that a harder hit ball banks slightly longer (if it starts close to the rail)? It sinks into the cushion more and travels a little farther down the rail before rebounding.
The difference is only a couple of inches maximum, but it's enough to show that we often don't know why stuff happens, which can make it hard to predict things. Here's a drawing I did to illustrate Bob's shot:
View attachment 87918
The same thing also happens with balls farther away from the rail that are banked harder, but in that case the elimination of forward roll on the OB (by hitting harder) shortens the bank more than sinking into the rail lengthens it.
pj
chgo
FYI, I have a good summary of all bank and kick effects, with many video links, here:JoeyA said:You mean this one: http://billiards.colostate.edu/high_speed_videos/new/HSVB-41.htm
The video shows that the frozen OB when hit harder slides down the cushion a bit before rebounding from it.
When you say "in that case the elimination of forward roll on the OB (by hitting harder) shortens the bank more than sinking into the rail lengthens it", are you referring to the forward roll after it hits the rail or before? If you are referring to the elimination of the forward roll on the OB (on shots that are away from the rail) before it hits the rail, then I think I am missing something (because the frozen OB in the video doesn't have any forward roll on it).
The frozen OB in the video appears to have no forward roll on it until it leaves the rail.
I think Dr. Dave has another video that shows what happens to the OB when it hits the rail at different speeds and will check that out as well.
I wonder how many arguments I can get into at the pool hall with this information?![]()
Thanks,
JoeyA (my head hurts)
Have you seen Bob Jewett's (and Dr. Dave's) video where he shows that a harder hit ball banks slightly longer (if it starts close to the rail)?
You mean this one: http://billiards.colostate.edu/high_...ew/HSVB-41.htm
It sinks into the cushion more and travels a little farther down the rail before rebounding.
The video shows that the frozen OB when hit harder slides down the cushion a bit before rebounding from it.
The same thing also happens with balls farther away from the rail that are banked harder, but in that case the elimination of forward roll on the OB (by hitting harder) shortens the bank more than sinking into the rail lengthens it.
When you say "in that case the elimination of forward roll on the OB (by hitting harder) shortens the bank more than sinking into the rail lengthens it", are you referring to the forward roll after it hits the rail or before? If you are referring to the elimination of the forward roll on the OB (on shots that are away from the rail) before it hits the rail, then I think I am missing something (because the frozen OB in the video doesn't have any forward roll on it).
I wonder how many arguments I can get into at the pool hall with this information?
i must confess i didn't read through this entire thread, but one (one of many mind you) of the HUGE problems with freddy's system is that it assumes, no matter how obtuse or acute the bank angle, that draw will lengthen an object ball out the same amount...... yet if you think about it, when you have a very sharp (acute) angle, draw (and thus follow on the object ball) can't do TOO much. whereas if you have a very wide angle (obtuse) on a bank, the draw is able to really take effect simply because of the angle the ob comes off the rail relative to the direction of the follow.
Clark_the_Shark said:So I've been playing pool for over 10 years on the big tables and am fairly good. But my banking has left to be desired... So I purchased the Banking with the Beard book and I have to say... I was very impressed. I studied the first 1/4 of the book so far and really tried to engrain the concepts into my head.
Well... I went to my local hall and thought I'd try out the first couple of shots detailed in the first couple of pages... the ones that were natural 2:1 banks lined up from the side pocket to the cross corner pocket. I tried basically all 5 of them and they just didn't work. Especially the 2-Tips draw with FIRM speed one. The bank came up short every time. I know that I am hitting that ball FULL-IN-THE-FACE directly into the aiming line on new cloth Gold Crown III's. Granted the rails are old... but is that my only problem? I mean, I'm no slouch, and I know if I'm hitting a ball full or not, I run racks fairly consitently. What's the deal?