Bar stick or not?

jed1894

jed1894

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
1st question:

Well, after about 3 years of buying numerous cues (customs and factory), and wasted about 4K, I've come to realize that I can play just as good (probably a little better) with a $19 bar cue. So, now I'm going to waste some more money on different bar cues. Since I own my own pool room, I don't actually need a 2 piece cue, so a bar cue seems logical to me. Now, do you guys have any good recommendations for bar cues under $75-100?

2nd question:

Why would a bar cue (aka: one piece) feel better, or firmer, than the pro-tapered 2 piece cues? Is the better or different feel just in my head, or is there something to a good firm feeling bar cue? Or, is it that my personal preference may be a firmer cue and I just haven't found the right 2 piece, bar cue feeling cue? The closest I've seen to that was an old Canadian made Dufferin I once had. Are there more out there? Any discussion or am I just boring you guys?

JED
 
Cuemakers try to get their 2-piece to feel like a 1-piece. I believe a good house cue hits better thnan most 2-piece. Your choice of the Canadain Dufferin is right on IMO. It's mostly the tip after that. Johnnyt
 
What about a bar cue with a good Talisman or Moori tip? That should get me started!
 
one piece is as good as any

Go down to somewhere that stocks a bunch so that you can pick out the grain you want and buy a one piece. You may or may not find that you want to change the tip and ferule.

I played the best pool I ever played with a twelve dollar stick with a ten dollar tip. Prices have went up slightly since then though, on everything but the tip! If the one piece has decent shaft wood that doesn't warp the only disadvantage is that they are a pain to tote around, not an issue for you.

Hu


jed1894 said:
1st question:

Well, after about 3 years of buying numerous cues (customs and factory), and wasted about 4K, I've come to realize that I can play just as good (probably a little better) with a $19 bar cue. So, now I'm going to waste some more money on different bar cues. Since I own my own pool room, I don't actually need a 2 piece cue, so a bar cue seems logical to me. Now, do you guys have any good recommendations for bar cues under $75-100?

2nd question:

Why would a bar cue (aka: one piece) feel better, or firmer, than the pro-tapered 2 piece cues? Is the better or different feel just in my head, or is there something to a good firm feeling bar cue? Or, is it that my personal preference may be a firmer cue and I just haven't found the right 2 piece, bar cue feeling cue? The closest I've seen to that was an old Canadian made Dufferin I once had. Are there more out there? Any discussion or am I just boring you guys?

JED
Click to expand...
 
That one looks kind of beat up to me. Plus it's 21 OZ. does look to have a slip on tip.Also there are no shipping charges posted. I'd pass on that one. Johnnyt
 
go Dufferien they are the most solid built valley cues have an air bubble or void in them thats why they bong a little more for under three hundred try a Little Al Remero from Hardtimes in Belflour ca.
 
The problem with Dufferins are that they are made by someone else now--not Canadians. The last one I had was 12.75 tip radius (Canadian made) but the shaft was like a bar cue. The wgt bolt system was not changable. That brings up the reason I don't have it anymore. I tried to replace the wgt bolt system with my own (drilling out the hole). Needless to say, I'm not pool mechanic.

Also, I was surprised to see that Lucasi bar cues are actually 2 piece cues glued together. I guess that keeps them from warping. I've looked around and see that Action, Lucasi, Player, Excalaber are out there. Anymore?

JEd
 
Flex said:
About a month ago, Joey Gold took a couple of shots with a Valley house cue, and told me that if he were to retaper the cue and shaft, that there is no cue at any price, say $10,000 or $20,000 that would play better.

Joey Gold told me the metal pin in a cue kills the feel; that a G-10 pin is the way to go. That being said, if I were to take a good sneaky pete cue with a wood to wood joint and have the 5/16 X 18 pin taken out and replaced with a G-10 pin, would the cue play any better?

Lots of questions, I know, but I'm interested in all the answers!

Flex
Click to expand...
This was posted a while back and it aroused my interest....

I wonder if there is a cuemaker out there who could put a SW or a Cog taper (Or a taper from any of the upper echelon makers you preferred) on a good house cue if you took it to them?

I bet if you had that done and replaced the tip & ferrule with what you preferred the hit would be pretty hard to beat...

Please post your opinions (especially cuemakers) on this subject as I would really like to hear them..

Thanks,
-Andy
 
I said it once, I will say it again, $40 players cue:)

They should sponsor me:D . I'm always promoting their cue on this board.
 
hilla_hilla said:
I said it once, I will say it again, $40 players cue:)

They should sponsor me:D . I'm always promoting their cue on this board.
Click to expand...

I second that recommendation. My Players cue was about $70 though.

Be sure to mention me if that sponsorship ever goes through :D
 
house cue

jed1894 said:
1st question:

Well, after about 3 years of buying numerous cues (customs and factory), and wasted about 4K, I've come to realize that I can play just as good (probably a little better) with a $19 bar cue. So, now I'm going to waste some more money on different bar cues. Since I own my own pool room, I don't actually need a 2 piece cue, so a bar cue seems logical to me. Now, do you guys have any good recommendations for bar cues under $75-100?

2nd question:

Why would a bar cue (aka: one piece) feel better, or firmer, than the pro-tapered 2 piece cues? Is the better or different feel just in my head, or is there something to a good firm feeling bar cue? Or, is it that my personal preference may be a firmer cue and I just haven't found the right 2 piece, bar cue feeling cue? The closest I've seen to that was an old Canadian made Dufferin I once had. Are there more out there? Any discussion or am I just boring you guys?

JED
Click to expand...
O.K. you ask for it, i am of age-- and when i started playing 1950, all we played with were house cues.got several customs cues now- but remember the day that i made lots of$$$$ with house cues!!
 
I agree. I can do the same thing to the CB with my $30 walmart cue as I can with my better cues. Also, as said above, two piece cues are trying to mimick the feel of a one piece cue. I have often wondered why pros do not use one piece cues (except that they are much more difficult to travel with).
 
I once heard. Why take a perfectly good piece of wood and cut it in half.:D
 
jed1894 said:
Why would a bar cue (aka: one piece) feel better, or firmer, than the pro-tapered 2 piece cues?
JED
Click to expand...


My best guess would be that it is because there is noting in the cue to dampen the transfer of feedback down the length of the cue. Also, just about as stiff as one could hope for.

Lisa
 
As it happens . . .

As it happens, I did just what Flex was talking about on my playing cue. Took a 5/16" steel pin out and replaced it with a 3/8" G-10. I also replaced the stainless collar with Ivorene four. I liked the result a great deal. Joints are an area I will continue to play with since I have a few ideas I am curious to try but I don't think I'll be using conventional metal pins anymore.

I could easily retaper a house cue on my equipment. How it would play would depend entirely on the quality of the shaft wood. Actually most play and hit just fine if you just strip the varnish off of the bridge area with no other changes.

Hu






1-pocket-player said:
This was posted a while back and it aroused my interest....

I wonder if there is a cuemaker out there who could put a SW or a Cog taper (Or a taper from any of the upper echelon makers you preferred) on a good house cue if you took it to them?

I bet if you had that done and replaced the tip & ferrule with what you preferred the hit would be pretty hard to beat...

Please post your opinions (especially cuemakers) on this subject as I would really like to hear them..

Thanks,
-Andy
Click to expand...
 
But..... would not re-tapering a house/bar cue take the whole effect away? My bar cues are fat (non-tapered)--maybe that's what I am noticing? I believe that extra wood on non-tapered house cues make it hit a little softer. No?

Also, where's every one buying the "Valley house cue?" I fiqure I order one or two and give em a try.

JED
 
Cancel that last.....found them at pooldawg and they even come with Elk Masters (my favorite tip). Cool.
 
"softer"

jed1894 said:
But..... would not re-tapering a house/bar cue take the whole effect away? My bar cues are fat (non-tapered)--maybe that's what I am noticing? I believe that extra wood on non-tapered house cues make it hit a little softer. No?

Also, where's every one buying the "Valley house cue?" I fiqure I order one or two and give em a try.

JED
Click to expand...

It really depends on what you mean by softer and the quality of the house cue shaft wood. The thicker shaft transfers more energy to the cue ball, actually hits harder than a thinner shaft. However it also has a duller deader sound and feel to it which some people equate to a softer hit. Changing the ferule from a typical house cue ferule to a hard ferule can often give someone all of the ping they want. However if you like ElkMasters I am going to make a guess that you would be quite happy with a house cue with a factory ferule and very slight retaper.

One thing I found recently with house cues is that the factory glue under the ferules had failed on a bunch of them. They seemed tight but slight pressure took them off. I found blue chalk between the shaft and ferule on about a third of the house cues I redid for a local hall. Not a big deal but be aware that you may have to fix that once. This happened with several brands of house cue and I have forgotten which ones it was now. Sorry about that.

Hu
 
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