Has anyone tried the Beal Tool Company threading kits for threading cue parts?
http://www.bealltool.com/products/threading/threader.php
Dave
http://www.bealltool.com/products/threading/threader.php
Dave
Beal Threading Kits
- Thread starter Dave38
- Start date
Rather coarse threads for assembling cue parts; the finer the thread (within reason) the more clamping leverage a threaded component will have.
TW
TW
Those work great!!!!
For chair legs.
For chair legs.
I once used them to build an Arm Chair Log Thrower.
I asked this question, knowing that there will be either a smart a$$ response, or just a shunning of the tool. I actually have a set of 2 sizes and have been playing with it for a couple days. I am amazed at how simple it works, and the quality of the threads it makes. I have spent $100 on stupid compression threaders that some of you sell, that work like Sh!%, and this only cost $65 more.
I asked an honest question, and received some very good pm's and I thank those people for that.
For the rest of the posters.....
Most of the posts were childish to say the least!
So if one needed to thread a 29" core dowel, how would one, or NASA, do it? When they don't have the funding for $$$$ equipment?
It's easy for someone that is considered a 'big dog' in cue building to scoff at tools like this, but what do you offer as an alternative?????? In the same price range would be nice.
As to building chair legs, well if it can hold a fat a$$ (like some on here have...) on the chair, then I guess using the same methods will build a cue that will hold up very well for a long time.
A bit of info also, the threads per inch is only dictated by the delrin insert that is pre threaded. The depth of thread is adjusted by the router bit height. If you build your own insert and thread it with a, say, 5/8x11, then would it be 'acceptable' for cuebuilding? I'm a bottom dweller and even I figured that out. Maybe some of you 'BIG DOGS' should actually look at the tool before commenting with your jokes......not everyone has a shitton of money to buy milling machines for every process, etc.
It's nice to see a bunch of people so full of themselves to be regarded as 'knowledgeable' people.
Thanks for your NOT helpful input.
Dave
I asked an honest question, and received some very good pm's and I thank those people for that.
For the rest of the posters.....
Most of the posts were childish to say the least!
So if one needed to thread a 29" core dowel, how would one, or NASA, do it? When they don't have the funding for $$$$ equipment?
It's easy for someone that is considered a 'big dog' in cue building to scoff at tools like this, but what do you offer as an alternative?????? In the same price range would be nice.
As to building chair legs, well if it can hold a fat a$$ (like some on here have...) on the chair, then I guess using the same methods will build a cue that will hold up very well for a long time.
A bit of info also, the threads per inch is only dictated by the delrin insert that is pre threaded. The depth of thread is adjusted by the router bit height. If you build your own insert and thread it with a, say, 5/8x11, then would it be 'acceptable' for cuebuilding? I'm a bottom dweller and even I figured that out. Maybe some of you 'BIG DOGS' should actually look at the tool before commenting with your jokes......not everyone has a shitton of money to buy milling machines for every process, etc.
It's nice to see a bunch of people so full of themselves to be regarded as 'knowledgeable' people.
Thanks for your NOT helpful input.
Dave
Sorry bout that Dave.
I actually tried those.
As Thomas Wayne noted, their threads are too coarse.
I also did not like that they needed way too long of a thread relief.
The 3/4 was technically doable for buttplates but the threads are way too coarse and would involve too much glue.
Wood threading for cues needs SPEED to have a good result.
Also, the minor and major rules in woods for cues almost always need to be modified.
http://www.newmantools.com/tapdrill.htm
Take 5/8 18 for example. .578 hole ?
Live threading is actually cheap if you have a metal lathe. A lot cheaper than buying taps and dies or those for every threads.
I've seen grinders, hose clamped to a tool holder work very well.
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i guess im on the other side of the spectrum and like coarse threads, the 1/2 8 really wouldnt be a bad size to use at the A joint or for making your own wood joint pins.
id try the 3/4 for the buttplate as joey mentioned could come in handy,
i agree for a cheap tool thats really simplistic it would be a fun one to have around.
i dont know about you guys but i make more than pool cuess in my shop for fun (if i ever have time)
id try the 3/4 for the buttplate as joey mentioned could come in handy,
i agree for a cheap tool thats really simplistic it would be a fun one to have around.
i dont know about you guys but i make more than pool cuess in my shop for fun (if i ever have time)
threading
I used a similiar threader on a couple of cues years ago,after completing them,I shot some balls around.they had weird clicks when I hit the balls.after some research and thinking about this new method,I came to the conclusion that as this method screws together,you push the threads dry of glue and it goes to the bottom of the hole.this action will create quite a compression,I never tried that method again,maybe a different glue would had different results.
I used a similiar threader on a couple of cues years ago,after completing them,I shot some balls around.they had weird clicks when I hit the balls.after some research and thinking about this new method,I came to the conclusion that as this method screws together,you push the threads dry of glue and it goes to the bottom of the hole.this action will create quite a compression,I never tried that method again,maybe a different glue would had different results.
When I did my apprenticeship, one of the exercises was to hand file a shaft,then thread it using a file and calculating the helix angle of the thread, file along that angle. I was really surprised at how accurate you really can make a thread that way and just by looking at the width of what was filed, gauging the thread depth.
In m case it was an M6 x 1 thread. The filing guide was set at 3deg from horizontal.The follower was also set at 3 deg. It actually needed to be set closer to 3 deg and 2 min, but hand filing would not know the difference. The nut we made was tapped and had to go over the threaded portion, it was 9 mm long.It worked.
I still have the spanner and it works quite well.The thread looks a bit odd ,but you should see the looks of doubt when you tell them it was hand filed.
Like everything, there is secrets but it is unrealistic to expect that set up to be as accurate as a machine tool with live threading.
Another device I have seen for making threads in wood is quite simple. The dowel has a centre hole,the threaded rod has a point on it and a pin in it to be a driver.There is a piece of angle used as a vee block that supports the dowel and threaded rod.In a block is a 2 nuts that are seperated. The thread rod is turned down below the thread root diameter for the start of the threading so as not to hit the threaded rod at the beginning.As you turn it, it makes the thread the same as what the rod and nut you are using.The 1st nut can be used as a sort of compression die and make a nice looking sealed thread.The ones I saw were 10mm.
Just more food for thought.
In m case it was an M6 x 1 thread. The filing guide was set at 3deg from horizontal.The follower was also set at 3 deg. It actually needed to be set closer to 3 deg and 2 min, but hand filing would not know the difference. The nut we made was tapped and had to go over the threaded portion, it was 9 mm long.It worked.
I still have the spanner and it works quite well.The thread looks a bit odd ,but you should see the looks of doubt when you tell them it was hand filed.
Like everything, there is secrets but it is unrealistic to expect that set up to be as accurate as a machine tool with live threading.
Another device I have seen for making threads in wood is quite simple. The dowel has a centre hole,the threaded rod has a point on it and a pin in it to be a driver.There is a piece of angle used as a vee block that supports the dowel and threaded rod.In a block is a 2 nuts that are seperated. The thread rod is turned down below the thread root diameter for the start of the threading so as not to hit the threaded rod at the beginning.As you turn it, it makes the thread the same as what the rod and nut you are using.The 1st nut can be used as a sort of compression die and make a nice looking sealed thread.The ones I saw were 10mm.
Just more food for thought.
There is at least one other cue maker that uses this tool to make joint pins. Hmmmm, I wonder who that might be. 1/2 x 8.
Treed, that's a hell of an observation.
Did you use a thick epoxy ?
Try a thinner epoxy and score both threads with a thin file .
The Beal Tool company has been around for ages. Until I finally figured out how to do it right using laminate trimmers to cut my all wood thread joints they were the only game in town. I still have the tap and die that I bought from them years ago and their are some secrets to using it. Call me and I will tell you them. Even know these secrets my success rate was only about 80% with one in five turning into doo-doo.
Before I found Beal's stuff I had tried several othes taps and dies and all were totally worthless. Basically The Beal Company catered to the wood product industry in Michigan. If you have a push broom in your shop and the handle threads into the broom probably a Beal tool cut those thread.
I went high tech about 20 years ago but as I say if you come to my shop I can show you my Beal Tap and Die set from 35 years ago [cost me $500 back them which was an arm and a leg] cause i know exactly what drawer it is in gathering dust.
I now cut 10 TPI for my all wood joint but occasionally I get an old one back when I was using the 1/2" x 8 Beal for rehab. The threads are still as good as the day they were made.
But as Joey In Cali said, good for chair legs but not much else.
Wood glue doesn't become as hard as epoxy. Great for tongue and groove joinery but not for threaded and compressed joinery imo.
Any slow 2-part epoxy would be better imo.
West 105-206 being the most popular.
I'm monkeying around to make my wood joinery even better. It's not broke but some people like leaving their cues in the car. Some cues fly overseas. I just flew overseas last December and I was shocked my cue was exposed to freezing temperature at the cargo deck of the plane. One hour after I landed, I opened my cue box, it was still cold . Epoxy inside the A-joint cracked.
I'm monkey putting sealer on the cavity and wood tenon, different ways or set time for the epoxy used etc. And will leave the mock-ups in the car and find out which work the best after a few weeks or so.
Um, I just finished an interesting side project for NASA and I can tell you unequivocally, they have plenty of funding.
Actually, the tpi is ALSO dictated by the tap(s) available, and the Beal taps are all pretty coarse...
TW
(PS: I, for one, have actually owned the Beal system. It may be perfect for you, but doesn't meet any of my cuemaking needs)
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If you have the 3/4"x10 or 16 tap and make another insert for this kit using that same tap, you now can thread your core with a less coarse thread, and all is well. ALL that is needed to do is make a 3/4x16 or 5/8x18 insert and adjust the 60 degree router bit height, unless I'm missing something here? Otherwise how does one thread a 29" core dowel?
Attached some pics
