I would thing the negatives associated with playing with a different cue would outweigh any potential- and debatable- gains
I like the left handed Wonder for bar boxes, but it's a Miracle I play on 9 footers. I also get more spin with 4skin.
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The only time I've seen people use a different stick for a bar table is if they don't want to take their "good" cues to a seedy bar and risk getting them stolen.
I think there was one guy that asked about what tip was best for a large table, which started a discussion about small table/large table equipment, but that really went no-where as 95% of people use the same equipment on any table.
The only time I've seen people use a different stick for a bar table is if they don't want to take their "good" cues to a seedy bar and risk getting them stolen.
I think there was one guy that asked about what tip was best for a large table, which started a discussion about small table/large table equipment, but that really went no-where as 95% of people use the same equipment on any table.
Creedo, my old friend, why are you always so serious?
The guy who started this thread probably played his first game of pool last Tuesday.![]()
Ah, the 'really fast' Valley, probably leveled and trued for league play, with fresh rails. . . .with a green logo aramith ball. . .I play on some really fast Valleys a couple times a week, so I try to use a little lighter cue when I play on them, about half an oz. It helps a little. Its that crappy green logo Aramith cue ball that I don't like, but its better than the ones we used to have to play with.
Now we're talking. If the bar table is in an old dive bar and has the mud ball, the Dynamo red dot or green dot, we're talkin about some heavy balls. Irving Kayes used small bowling balls.Ah, the 'really fast' Valley, probably leveled and trued for league play, with fresh rails. . . .with a green logo aramith ball. . .
THAT'S NOT A BARBOX!!!
A bar box is something like a 20 year old National, covered in an army blanket, with a ski jump where the three piece slate weren't joined together right. One of the side rails installed upside down, so that any attempt at a bank shot off it will result in the cue ball flying off the table. of course, that side rail also has its ends reversed, so that the corner is too narrow and the side is too wide.
And on top, not a green logo Aramith, But everyones arch nemesis, Big Muddy!
THAT Table may require a different cue. There is no finessing with your 17 ouncer on that table.You need the authority and momentum of the heavy cue to make Big Muddy obey.
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I was reading through some threads and thought it interesting that some people prefer different cues for big tables as opposed to bar boxes. I don't see much of a difference myself but since I play mainly on bar boxes thought I would ask. Is there a certain cue you prefer that maybe you wouldn't prefer on a large table or different characteristics you prefer a cue to have when you play on a bar box? To take it one step further does the tip and/or hardness also vary between bar boxes and big tables? thanks
I prefer straight ones
Now we're talking. If the bar table is in an old dive bar and has the mud ball, the Dynamo red dot or green dot, we're talkin about some heavy balls. Irving Kayes used small bowling balls.
My special cue is a 20 oz Players with a strong solid shaft and its original very hard tip that seemed to work best on those tables. One of these days I'll rewrap her. If players have never had the pleasure of hitting the Dynamo red dot in a bar setting, please try it.
The oversized ball I don't have much issue with my normal cues.
Freddie