Best ld shaft.

I need some thoughts for a new cue shaft. What's the best ld shaft?

The best shaft LD or otherwise, is the one that works best for you.
Sadly most will play at the same level regardless of what cue/shaft they purchase.

It is my opinion that it takes deliberate practice of the right things to make a lasting significant jump in your level of play. The better you currently play the more difficult it is to make a "big jump" in performance that lasts over the long haul.

A couple of questions you may wish to ask yourself:

How much deflection is ok for you?

Is less deflection always better?

We know there's no such thing as zero deflection shafts.

So, where's the maximum benefit in LD vs other characteristics you feel are important for you?

For me I'll take a 12mm tip with Mike Bender's stiff tapered 30 inch shaft in solid maple with ivory ferrules and a pressed triangle tip. For me it's the perfect trade off in deflection vs feel.

Good luck in deciding on your new purchase.
 
I think you need to start with the basics.

Tip Diameter, shaft taper, total weight.

Ideal feel/feedback/etc.

Then the least 'effective' deflection available in those that fit that criteria.
 
Well the easiest one to try out for yourself would probably be a 314. There is at least two of them in any pool hall at any moment. :D
 
I need some thoughts for a new cue shaft. What's the best ld shaft?

What's your favorite ice cream?

There have to be at least a dozen options. I have used mcd i2, pred 314-2, and ob-1, and varney. The varney is great but all work as advertised.
 
LD shafts

The best shaft LD or otherwise, is the one that works best for you.
Sadly most will play at the same level regardless of what cue/shaft they purchase.

It is my opinion that it takes deliberate practice of the right things to make a lasting significant jump in your level of play. The better you currently play the more difficult it is to make a "big jump" in performance that lasts over the long haul.

A couple of questions you may wish to ask yourself:

How much deflection is ok for you?

Is less deflection always better?

We know there's no such thing as zero deflection shafts.

So, where's the maximum benefit in LD vs other characteristics you feel are important for you?

For me I'll take a 12mm tip with Mike Bender's stiff tapered 30 inch shaft in solid maple with ivory ferrules and a pressed triangle tip. For me it's the perfect trade off in deflection vs feel.

Good luck in deciding on your new purchase.

Your reply/advice to the thread is a good one IMO. But out of curiosity why do you prefer an ivory ferrule over another material? Why use a ferrule at all if the shaft is solid maple?
 
See if you can play some different ones at your poolhall and see what you like. Folks at mine say OB, but I personally like BlackBoar ferruleless the best.:D
 
I just tried the Players HXT Skinny, 11.75 pro taper (not conical).....very light front end on this shaft, comes with a Kamui black soft tip standard.

Worth a stab for anyone who's used the HXT 12.75 and wants something skinnier/lighter.

It won't fix my stab stroke, but I'm working on it.
 
SS360 shaft from BD CUES is one of the best LD shafts out there , i've played with almost all of them but
this shaft has got it all .
 
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I need some thoughts for a new cue shaft. What's the best ld shaft?

Low deflection means shaft with smaller tip, such as 11.75 mm or smaller, this will allow you to put english on CB without going too extreme to edj of CB.

Deflection occur only in high speed shots with right and left hand english, with low speed swerve and curve occur not deflection. Every cue will deflect, my advise is to pick cue where its deflection cancels out its english stun throw for 3-4 diamonds separation between CB and OB and OB at lease 2-3 diamonds from pocket about 1/3 ball cut so you aim at center of pocket with comfortable bridge pivot point. Remember only for high speed shots where swerve and curve are out of picture. Obviously if your bridge position changes from cue pivot point you have to aim different, no matter what cue you use because they all deflects.
Note how most of pros have very long bridge, that is there pivot point, if that changes they do have to judge the aim, and do miss with long shots.
 
Your reply/advice to the thread is a good one IMO. But out of curiosity why do you prefer an ivory ferrule over another material? Why use a ferrule at all if the shaft is solid maple?

Honestly, Ivory is what I am used to and i like the asthetics it offers. I have shafts with other materials and I can adjust between them. I just prefer Ivory ferrules, they look nice, sound nice, resist chalk stain and feel good to me.

I am not one to chase the newest fad or the largest marketing campaign. I would rather spend my money practicing, going to a tourney or having another 1 of 1 custom cue made.

Perhaps, I am old school in my thinking, but I don't believe the majority of my missed shots are due to equipment. I think my misses are my errors and the only way to reduce those is to engage in proper practice.

I hope that answers your question.

Thanks for asking.
 
I'm guessing it will be the seventh or eighth one you buy--for about a year, then you'll decide that either: 1. It was the first one you tried; or 2. None of them are good eno--hey, look! A new LD shaft I can buy!

I'll make you an offer: Every time you think about buying a new LD shaft, send me your current shaft and a $50 bill instead. I'll keep your shaft for a couple of weeks, then send it back to you with a letter stating how great your shaft is and how I didn't miss a single shot with it.

-dld; aka 'The Placebo'

I take it you think LD is bologna? Please correct me if I am misundetnding you.
 
Oh no, I believe in the science of it decreasing the squirt of the cueball. I do have questions about the validity of any of the tests and 'results' that are published.

That said, I don't believe it necessarily helps people. I also believe the quest for the 'best' equipment is a huge detriment to a person's improvement. It is easy to get in the habit of blaming the equipment instead of the dummy using the equipment.

I have one LD shaft and notice very little difference between it and my dozen other shafts.

dld

Sounds like the aiming system debate that PJ answered well he said "the people who say aiming systems don't work really mean that they aren't a cure all; people that say that they do work really mean that it helps them in some way".

I personally think that it depends on many factors the biggest one is where you are in your development as a player; I think in most cases it is going to help the newbie far more than it will the old timer, in fact for the old timer it may very well be bad for them. If that newbie says that his low deflection shaft is the best thing since sliced bread that old time 100+ runner is just going to ask him "well how much do you want to play for?"
 
Oh no, I believe in the science of it decreasing the squirt of the cueball. I do have questions about the validity of any of the tests and 'results' that are published.

That said, I don't believe it necessarily helps people. I also believe the quest for the 'best' equipment is a huge detriment to a person's improvement. It is easy to get in the habit of blaming the equipment instead of the dummy using the equipment.

I have one LD shaft and notice very little difference between it and my dozen other shafts.

dld



Should golfers continue to use the old drivers made with the wood head from the 50's? I mean its the same thing. Technology has improved to the point that newer equipement allows a larger sweet spot and longer drive distance. Just like a LD shaft allows you to apply more side spin without needing to adjust the aim.

To me, at the end of the day, who cares if its all mental or if the shaft really does make it easier. If the person using gets a benefit it has to be worth it.
 
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