Best Polish For Cue Butt?

D

Dakota Cues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I've seen a lot of "Shaft Polish", and "Ball Cleaner/Polish" threads, but I was wondering what product you guys most prefer for keeping the butt of your cue looking sharp?

Also, it doesn't matter if it's a specific cue polish, either. I'd love to hear about any of those secret guitar polishes, or whatever waxes that you just stumbled across but have now become your favorites!
 
Dakota Cues said:
I've seen a lot of "Shaft Polish", and "Ball Cleaner/Polish" threads, but I was wondering what product you guys most prefer for keeping the butt of your cue looking sharp?

Also, it doesn't matter if it's a specific cue polish, either. I'd love to hear about any of those secret guitar polishes, or whatever waxes that you just stumbled across but have now become your favorites!
Click to expand...

Polish gets tacky...Id say never use any. I would say get a old, very wron baby diaper to wipe it down. If its good nuff for a baby's bottom, its good nuff for my cue.
 
Since most cues are finished with a coating similar to automobiles, I use various car products on my cues: Compounds such as Meguiars Scratch-X to polish out scratches, glazes such as Meguiars "show car glaze" for minor polishing and either a pure carnuba wax or a cleaner wax such as Mothers' for the final finish. Nothing really trick, just reputable car detailing products.

Bill
 
Mother's pure carnuba wax!!!!!!! It's a car wax I have used for years on cues and high end musical instruments ......i.e. guitars, violins...ect also on show cars, it is pure and will make your cue look beautiful! AND NO BUILD UP !
 
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> As mentioned by the above,there are several quality car-care products that can be used.

With that being said,there are also an equal number of products you DON'T want to use. The common denominator here is SILICONE!

Whether it be a fine musical instrument,or your cue,silicones like to not show you any visible damage. In fact,they may LOOK better than they ever have,but the adverse effects don't show up until you need a wrap put on,tips and ferrules if you use the silicone waxes on your shafts,or send your cue in for a refinish.

Silicone is an EPIC FAIL for 2 of the components on a guitar or cue,glue joints and adhesion of finish. It will eventually penetrate the finish and get into the wood,which can cause "fisheyes" in the refinish,a finish that doesn't harden properly or just won't "bite" etc. It will eventually ruin shafts too.

Read the packaging on the product you choose. If it ever actually says silicone or a variation of it,don't buy it.

I don't like the Mother's Cleaner/Wax for shafts because of the pinkish color.

Shaft waxes should either be yellow like a pure carnauba,or kind of neutral.

Since the OP mentioned guitar finish products,Meguiar's makes a guitar cleaning/polishing kit for Fender that are easily found. The Dunlop 65 maintenance kit is also nice. Another I can highly recommend is the Stewart-McDonald Guitar Repair product called Preservation Polish. It's formulated AGAINST silicones,and is safe for all finishes.

One more thought,unless you have a lathe to spin cues with,the abrasive type car care products like rubbing or polishing compounds,even some of the products like Scratch-Off can cause damage when applied by hand. Tommy D.
 
I don't think it is pure carnauba in staples

They are pretty careful to say it has carnauba in it and they tell you some things that aren't in it but nowhere do they say it is pure carnauba. I suspect it isn't. Other waxes are commonly mixed with carnauba when they simply say pure wax.

I ran this rabbit six months or so ago and can't remember the highest percentage of carnauba I found but I think it was a little less than fifty percent in any wax I found at the time. I don't remember for sure.

Hu



Dakota Cues said:
Thanks for the responses so far. I really appreciate it.

I like the idea of carnuba wax. While I haven't used it on a cue butt, I did on my guitar, and it worked great.

I heard a recommendation for this stuff:

http://www.amazon.com/HF-Staples-Crystal-Clear-Paste/dp/B001OBT0XM

PRIMARILY because it didn't contain any additives like silicone. Just pure carnuba.

Has anybody used this Crystal Clear Paste Wax on their equipment yet?
Click to expand...
 
A little digging

I found these sites that might be of interest. I also found pure carnauba flakes on e-bay and somebody that will sell pure carnauba by the pail with no price listed. I suspect it would require a group purchase to be practical to buy a pail and it may have to be cut with something to be applied regardless.

Most of the waxes contain polish also including Mother's pure carnauba. Polish is just another name for abrasive so I prefer for it not to be in my final wax.

http://www.properautocare.com/p21spastewax.html
Seems like good stuff. Contains polymers, don't know if that is good or bad.

http://www.chemicalguys.com/Carnauba_Paste_Wax_Limited_Edition_5050_Paste_Wax_p/wac_302.htm
These folks have some pretty impressive products, plus tech support. I think I'll give them a call myself.

Hu
 
I really don't see the need to polish the cue butt. My cue has been finished with Imron, and all it needs is to be wiped with a damp cloth then dried. It shines like new...and I use a microfiber cloth to clean it.
 
cue detailing

All of my cues have automotive finishes. Since I detail my car myself, I use automotive products to take care of my cues as well (from my post in another forum):

BUTT
Regular Maintenance:
*I use 2 microfibers (California) to wipe the butt after the game. A damp microfiber to remove oil & dirt, and a dry one to dry it of course
*I apply a wax (3M Perfect-It or Mothers Carnauba) once a month to protect my cue butts from dirt and oxidation such as sweat

Quarterly Maintenance:
*Since all of my cue butts have automotive finish, I use a 3step detailing process using like I do with my car to keep them shiny (I use MOTHERS):
1. Polish (Mothers)- removes oxidation from the finish & brings back that deep wet-look shine
2. Seal & Glaze (Mothers)- removes light scratches by filling them, and gives that candy-like gloss
3. Wax (3M)- protects steps 1&2 by acting as a sacrificial layer against dirt & oxidation (such as sweat)
Click to expand...

A liquid wax works better for me than a paste one as I find the latter kinda sticky at times since it's humid here in Manila... Mothers Carnauba Paste Wax smells really great though. :wink:

Now, I use steps 2 & 3 as often as I want since step 1 (polish) is "a little" abrasive. I only do step 1 about 2-3x a year or when the finish looks a little dull. If step 2 is done, the cue's butt will have that silky feel. If you don't finish it with step 3, that silky feel may not last a couple of days.
 
Tommy-D said:
> As mentioned by the above,there are several quality car-care products that can be used.

With that being said,there are also an equal number of products you DON'T want to use. The common denominator here is SILICONE!

Whether it be a fine musical instrument,or your cue,silicones like to not show you any visible damage. In fact,they may LOOK better than they ever have,but the adverse effects don't show up until you need a wrap put on,tips and ferrules if you use the silicone waxes on your shafts,or send your cue in for a refinish.

Silicone is an EPIC FAIL for 2 of the components on a guitar or cue,glue joints and adhesion of finish. It will eventually penetrate the finish and get into the wood,which can cause "fisheyes" in the refinish,a finish that doesn't harden properly or just won't "bite" etc. It will eventually ruin shafts too.

Read the packaging on the product you choose. If it ever actually says silicone or a variation of it,don't buy it.

I don't like the Mother's Cleaner/Wax for shafts because of the pinkish color.

Shaft waxes should either be yellow like a pure carnauba,or kind of neutral.

Since the OP mentioned guitar finish products,Meguiar's makes a guitar cleaning/polishing kit for Fender that are easily found. The Dunlop 65 maintenance kit is also nice. Another I can highly recommend is the Stewart-McDonald Guitar Repair product called Preservation Polish. It's formulated AGAINST silicones,and is safe for all finishes.

One more thought,unless you have a lathe to spin cues with,the abrasive type car care products like rubbing or polishing compounds,even some of the products like Scratch-Off can cause damage when applied by hand. Tommy D.
Click to expand...

Good Info.
 
Tommy-D said:
> As mentioned by the above,there are several quality car-care products that can be used.

With that being said,there are also an equal number of products you DON'T want to use. The common denominator here is SILICONE!

Whether it be a fine musical instrument,or your cue,silicones like to not show you any visible damage. In fact,they may LOOK better than they ever have,but the adverse effects don't show up until you need a wrap put on,tips and ferrules if you use the silicone waxes on your shafts,or send your cue in for a refinish.

Silicone is an EPIC FAIL for 2 of the components on a guitar or cue,glue joints and adhesion of finish. It will eventually penetrate the finish and get into the wood,which can cause "fisheyes" in the refinish,a finish that doesn't harden properly or just won't "bite" etc. It will eventually ruin shafts too.

Read the packaging on the product you choose. If it ever actually says silicone or a variation of it,don't buy it.

I don't like the Mother's Cleaner/Wax for shafts because of the pinkish color.

Shaft waxes should either be yellow like a pure carnauba,or kind of neutral.

Since the OP mentioned guitar finish products,Meguiar's makes a guitar cleaning/polishing kit for Fender that are easily found. The Dunlop 65 maintenance kit is also nice. Another I can highly recommend is the Stewart-McDonald Guitar Repair product called Preservation Polish. It's formulated AGAINST silicones,and is safe for all finishes.

One more thought,unless you have a lathe to spin cues with,the abrasive type car care products like rubbing or polishing compounds,even some of the products like Scratch-Off can cause damage when applied by hand. Tommy D.
Click to expand...

Good Info.
 
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