best shaft for easier backspin

While some players find a smaller diameter shaft allows for more backspin- bear in mind that it is really just making you hone in on a smaller spot. You are actually hitting the ball with the same amount of leather depending on the tip. One thing that should be considered when looking at smaller diameter shafts is the fact that the also magnify any imperfections in your aim and stroke so for that reason I would not recommend buying one if you no longer have the time to dedicate to this game.

My advice- try different tips until you find the right one for you. The tip is what makes the most difference in the hit and spin applied to the ball.

Edit: the radius of the tip also makes a big difference. Tips tend to shape themselves according to your play style over time. If you tend to hit center ball and use varying angles between the cue ball and the object ball to dictate the path of your cueball around the table you will tend to have a flatter tip over time. If you want to get more English try shaping your existing tip to a smaller radius.
 
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dr_dave said:
That is true in general. However if you are comparing cues of radically different weights and/or efficiencies (mostly related to tip hardness), you might get different results for the same stroke "effort." Also, if comparing shafts of different diameters, one needs to be careful to create the same tip contact point on the CB for a fair comparison. For more info, see:

cue tip hardness effects
optimal cue weight
cue efficiency
cue tip size and shape effects

Enjoy,
Dave
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are you handicapped? your reading comprehension is stuck for sure
 
smashmouth said:
you too

if you can't submit a shaft suggestion, get off my thread
for real, no further comments or last words to ease your ego, just bounce

thanks to the few that have actually tried to help
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Once a loser always a loser. People here are trying to help you because you are approaching any shortcoming you are having the wrong way.
There is no substitute for hard work on your stroke. Buy all the shafts you want. I think you should try them all. If you don't change your way of thinking after all of those shafts, the results will be the same. Still no draw.
 
philly said:
Once a loser always a loser. People here are trying to help you because you are approaching any shortcoming you are having the wrong way.
There is no substitute for hard work on your stroke. Buy all the shafts you want. I think you should try them all. If you don't change your way of thinking after all of those shafts, the results will be the same. Still no draw.
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ha ha

u suck at life, answer the request or be gone son
i'm done with ya
lol

i'll just check my pms from now on from all the non preachers
 
smashmouth said:
ha ha

u suck at life, answer the request or be gone son
i'm done with ya
lol

i'll just check my pms from now on from all the non preachers
Click to expand...

It's called a forum. You know, give and take. Do you always ask questions and only accept the answers you want to hear? And I suck at life? Ignorance breeds ignorance and the ignorant will always wish to remain so. Adios and please continue to remain your same stunted self. Your choice. Loser.
 
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Wtf is happening to this forum? It's going to hxxl in a handbasket! When your stroke is good you can draw with almost anything, obviously. That was not what the OP was asking.

I find that many beginners or people that are struggling with draw, benefit from trying a Predator 314 of any generation. Why that is, I have no idea. Personally I don't like it, and frequently overdraw my ball with it, when I compare directly to other shafts on the same butt. I loved it when I was a worse player than I am now, because it seemed to be a bit more forgiving than the standard maple shafts I had at the time. So I kept it, just in case.

I have it in my cuecase (314 cat) and frequently let people borrow it, and the feedback is always the same; they get lots of spin with it. It is slick, well maintained (apart from damage from the previous owners abuse) and has an excellent tip on it. That combination of factors, along with the quality of the shaft itself is what does the trick.

I think the best investment you can make in your pool game (apart from practice) is a good tip. Get a layered tip of great quality (like Moori), about medium hardness. A nice tip like that will be a great improvement to any cue, even cheap, ratty ones. If you take a Minnesota fats cue, or some fiberglass bs cue and put a Moori on it, you should be able to draw extremely well with it.

If your stroke is really erratic you may benefit from going softer, tip wise. Then shape said tip to a nice roundness and make sure that it is always like that. Whever it starts feeling "dead" and scuffing doesn't help, get a new one. Again, people will say that there is no difference between tips, as long as they hold chalk...sigh. Some times I wonder if people are really playing the game at all, or just reading about it in books?

Another thing you can do (that is free) is to always make sure your shaft is clean and slick. If your shaft is sticky, it is trickier to make a nice, smooth stroke, and it makes playing a nice experience when your equipment is in pristine condition. I use cuepapers, a special wax and then use cuesilk after. Most people cannot believe the slickness of the shaft after that treatment. Maintain by wiping it down with a microfiber cloth, to prevent buildup of chalk.
 
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I actually do prefer an OB Classic shift @ 12.7 mm with a nice sticky medium from Ultra Skins. Very little effort. Or for even less effort, use any of the laminated shafts @ 11.75 mm and a medium tip with a nickel radius. The radius is important for me at least. Very little effort with a Z Shaft.

Lesh
 
smashmouth said:
so yeah my stroke has gone to hell and I simply don't play enough to keep in form so looking to cheat a little, I want a shaft and/or shaft tip combo that imparts maximum English specifically backspin

any suggestions would be appreciated
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The shaft that makes you hit low on the cueball is the one to go with. It may be a comfort thing...

ANY shaft will put lots of backspin on the ball if you hit the cue ball low. Any tip in decent shape will do the same. If I was going to enter a draw contest, I'm certain the shaft and tip I would use is the one I'm used to. As it turns out, I like my 314-2 with joint installed by Andy Gilbert, Kamui clear black soft very compressed installed by me. I think the OB2+ has ridiculously low deflection and gives me tons of confidence spinning the hell out of the ball. The bottom line, though, is that if you are having trouble with draw, the trouble lies in your stroke, not your cue. Sorry to say, but this is really the fact of the matter.

KMRUNOUT
 
Lol

philly said:
It's called a forum. You know, give and take. Do you always ask questions and only accept the answers you want to hear? And I suck at life? Ignorance breeds ignorance and the ignorant will always wish to remain so. Adios and please continue to remain your same stunted self. Your choice. Loser.
Click to expand...

LOL
You cant be offended when some one's worst insult is ( u suck ) LOL

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yymUK-DCIeI
 
I saw an ad recently for a new shaft coming out before the fall league season, I think it will help this situation.

Its called the BS-5000. BS of course stands for BACK SPIN....... and thats exactly what this shaft is designed to do. It draws the ball so well, it can draw 4 lengths of the table (provided you supply the horsepower. ;))

Unfortunately, the shaft is incapable of putting top spin on the ball, and side spin with the BS-5000 is something that needs to be avoided. Side spin, intentional or otherwise can put undo pressure on the ferrule of the BS-5000, and that automatically voids the warranty.

As long as you only use the BS-5000 as instructed, no one will get hurt. The shaft tends to explode if used incorrectly. This means you might want to wear protective eyewear while playing.

Best of all, the BS-5000 is going to be on sale for the low low price of $1299.99. I know it seems spendy, but when you need a shaft that can draw your rock....... you need the best, the BS-5000. :thumbup:
 
smashmouth said:
so yeah my stroke has gone to hell and I simply don't play enough to keep in form so looking to cheat a little, I want a shaft and/or shaft tip combo that imparts maximum English specifically backspin

any suggestions would be appreciated
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The know it alls have told you what you already know.

I've been using english since I was 13 & that is nearly 50 years ago.

I can play with anything even a double wrapped with a twist off the wall as long as it has a good tip on it.

That said, anyone that thinks differences do not make a difference is just not thinking in the real world.

Hit the ball in the exact same location with the same stroke but with two totally different implements & you will get different results.

There was a rather good thread by Lamas regarding shaft flex & CB squirt or deflection. It established that it is the EFFECTIVE end mass that is important & the key word in that phrase is "effective".

I have a 314 CAT shaft that has been modified & taken down to 12mm at the tip & with an hour glass taper & the "pro" parallel section extended well up toward the joint.

It spins the ball better than my 11.75 mm OB Pro shaft with a European/conical taper that is much much more stiff.

Does that mean that I can not spin the ball with the 11.75 mm (that's a 1/4 of mm difference) OB Pro shaft?

NO it does not! Like I said I can spin the ball with a double bent cue off the wall as long as it has a good tip.

StraightPool99 made a good post.

You've gotten some good advice & some 'bad' information with some good advice.

Work on your stroke when you can but get a tip &/or shaft that lets YOU maximize your current ability & effort.

Good Luck in finding YOUR best solution.

Best Wishes for You & Yours,
Rick

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Shaft

I've tried lots of different cues and shafts over the last few years and there are definitely some differences. I bought a cue with 3 shafts from a cue maker. They were all pretty much identical in tip diameter, length and weight. He described one of them as more lively and he was right. There are definitely some shafts that move the ball better.

That being said, I don't play much with LD shafts which typically are the most available aftermarket. I now play with a Southwest and I think they move the ball better than any other cue I've tried. If I were in your shoes, I'd spend the money on a SW shaft and find a cheaper 3/8X11 pin butt to put it on. You get a SW shaft with about 12.5mm Kamui or other soft tip and you'll have trouble controlling the spin on the cue ball whether it be back spin or follow....

As always, that is just my 2 cents...
 
I don't know which is the best for you,
but I can play with some cues better than others
Draw better with some too

Some cues are almost impossible for me to draw with ,Meucci for example

other people say they draw easy

I just about gave up on advice ,i just try them out and play with cues that I like

In like my Deano cue,stiff taper,I could draw with it easy

I once had a josey that everyone who tried it could draw the ball better with

Jerry Franklin of South west cues couldn't believe it,he swapped his player with me for a few hours and grinned every minute
Jack Potter of Libra cues called it the draw cue

I could also shoot high and inside with better results,go 3 rails after hitting the object ball
things I can not do without that crazy cue

Dennis Glenn bought it for his collection,calling it the most amazing thing he had ever seen
When the cleanliness of theory runs into conflict with the mess of reality,bet on Reality

Evan Clark,formerly of Schon cues,built some unusual cues that could put remarkable English on balls also,
I forgot why he did not market them,I spoke with him a couple of weeks ago and he
has made a couple of them at his new shop,made some strange claims

And Evan is not the kind of guy to lie about things

Best wishes to you,
Dean
 
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Over the years I've observed that while a player with one type of relaxed, repeatable & accurate stroke gets his optimum draw with a whippy shaft, another player with a quite different type of stroke(equally relaxed, repeatable & accurate) seems to get his optimal draw with a stiffer-hitting shaft.

Hard to assign absolutes with these kinds of disparities.

One of the simplest and most reliable pieces of draw advice I've ever heard & benefited from, is well worth trying for folks seeking a draw remedy irrespective of any shaft they're working with:

"Hit twice as low and half as hard."

One of those seeming generalities that really does work even with less-than-ideal stroking mechanics.

Arnaldo
 
arnaldo said:
Over the years I've observed that while a player with one type of relaxed, repeatable & accurate stroke gets his optimum draw with a whippy shaft, another player with a quite different type of stroke(equally relaxed, repeatable & accurate) seems to get his optimal draw with a stiffer-hitting shaft.

Hard to assign absolutes with these kinds of disparities.

One of the simplest and most reliable pieces of draw advice I've ever heard & benefited from, is well worth trying for folks seeking a draw remedy irrespective of any shaft they're working with:

"Hit twice as low and half as hard."

One of those seeming generalities that really does work even with less-than-ideal stroking mechanics.

Arnaldo
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The reason this may have some merit is because often when people want to get more draw they try to hit the ball harder and tighten the grip, this causes them to raise the tip at the end of the stroke. it really is simple physics, speed/mass/contact point.
 
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