Best way to removed lizard wrap?

Cuemaster98

Cuemaster98

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Hi Guys,

Just wondering what you use to help remove the glue and debris that stick on the handle specifically when a lizard wrap is removed. Do you sand it down, scrap with a razor and then sand?? It's pain...I'm sure there a better solution.

Thanks,
Duc.
 
I will post a pic tonight for reference. I acquired a cue and was surprised when I removed the lizard wrap that it have inlays and it was originally a sectional wrap cue hence my reason for trying to carefully remove the glue and lizard residue.

Anyone with ideas? com'n guys!!
 
Cuemaster98 said:
I will post a pic tonight for reference. I acquired a cue and was surprised when I removed the lizard wrap that it have inlays and it was originally a sectional wrap cue hence my reason for trying to carefully remove the glue and lizard residue.

Anyone with ideas? com'n guys!!
Click to expand...


I'm not surprised, I did a cue a couple years back for a guy who wanted a sectional wrap, then later sent it back to just have a single wrap, I saw no need to change the handle when all I had to do was cut that little 5/8" down. and no need to charge him for a handle either. I'm sure it has happened to other makers as well. On my leathers, I use elmers, so a damp sponge does the trick.
 
When I'm doing a re-wrap and the old wrap has been removed, the first determination is
to identify the glue.
Is it hardened white glue, etc. or is it the type that never really gets hard (Lucasi)?

If it's 'hard' glue, I lay a 2nd cut mill bastard file on the wrap-channel while the
cue is spinning in a wood lathe. It cleans up nicely but care should be given near the finished ends.
The file has square sides and the channel has square end-cuts.
Let the file ride there, just don't get pushy or you'll be doing finish repair.

If the glue is the gummy type, the glue has to be removed with a different method.
For the most part, the glue can be removed by 'shaving' it off with a blade while spinning.
Again, be very careful near the ends.
Next, you can attack the remaining glue with a solvent. I use Xylene.
If you don't feel comfortable with the blade, you can use the solvent start to finish.
It's strong enough that it will break-down the glue, it just takes longer.

Once the glue is removed (either method) you can touch-up the channel with sandpaper.
Again, care should be exercised because you don't want to make the channel any deeper
than what it needs to be. If you're down to bare wood it's a good idea to (re)seal the wood.
One of the keys to a good wrap replacement is negotiating a proper channel depth for the
type of wrap you'll be installing. Linen is pretty consistent so a channel depth of
.022" to .025" per side should give you good results.
Leather wrap thickness can vary greatly so the channel depth should be adjusted accordingly.
Those that do a lot of wraps have their own tricks/methods for attaining proper depth.

HTH, KJ
 
Hi Duc. The best way I have found to remove a lizard wrap is to use a sharp hunting knife. It comes off those little critters just fine. Make sure they have expired first, because they can lay a nasty bite on your hand. Some species of lizards are also pretty tasty.

Hope this helps.
Terry.
 
lizardrepellant2.jpg



Sorry, couldn't help myself.


Anyway:

Xylene was mentioned. Please be careful with such things guys. That stuff is likely carcinogenic IMHO, along with benzene and toluene.
 
Thanks Guys for all the advice...I ended up doing it the old fashion way with a razor blade.
I'm not done yet but so far it looks pretty good. Now I just have to figure out what to do with this cue.

Please let me know if you have any ideas. I was thinking about leaving the ring work expose..install the wrap sectional..probably a darker green wrap. Still can't seem to find any dark green color wrap.

Also thinking about redoing the inlays and add a clear over the handle to make it a wrap less cue?

Everything white on this cue is ivory. It's a monster of a cue...weighing in at 23oz (Butt alone is 18oz) but the cue plays extremely good with perfect balance that you don't feel the weigh). The ivory points are reinforce with sterling silver veneers and butt sleeve is solid ivory cored.

Have a look:

539445456_o.jpg
 
Last edited:
Cuemaster98 said:
Thanks Guys for all the advice...I ended up doing it the old fashion way with a razor blade.
I'm not done yet but so far it looks pretty good. Now I just have to figure out what to do with this cue.

Please let me know if you have any ideas. I was thinking about leaving the ring work expose..install the wrap sectional..probably a darker green wrap. Still can't seem to find any dark green color wrap.

Also thinking about redoing the inlays and add a clear over the handle to make it a wrap less cue?

Everything white on this cue is ivory. It's a monster of a cue...weighing in at 23oz (Butt alone is 18oz) but the cue plays extremely good with perfect balance that you don't feel the weigh). The ivory points are reinforce with sterling silver veneers and butt sleeve is solid ivory cored.

Have a look:

539445456_o.jpg
Click to expand...

I dont know what you can do now, with the wrap groove cut......re wrap it?
I dont know if you can fill it with clear to preserve the look of the cue?
 
I believe that it would be very possible to built up the grip area with automotive clear!!
 
Holy crap, somebody put a wrap over that? :eek:

Somebody help the man figure out a way to set it right! :thumbup:

Do you know who made it?

An ivory cored butt sleeve?! :yeah: Yes....daddy likes.... :D
 
This is one of Russ Espiritu creation and I'm thinking of sending back to him and have him figure out a way to restore this cue. I'm sure he'll have a few ideas.

Regards,
Duc.
 
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