Break Cue? Really??

alerotaz

alerotaz

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Maybe I am about to show Im stupid to some people but...

I have never had a so called break cue. I have had 2 shafts incase one got messed up. I have had two cues at the same event incase I wanted a change due to a table. I was told two differnt things... why would you not break with your cue? If it cant handle it then its no good anyway.. and other s would say it can mess with the tips on the cue.
I even tried the tips with the layer of what looked like rubber between the leather and the cue.

Question is, what reaaly is the main purpose of a break cue and if you really need one why not just buy a cheap Duffrin or Cutec for just breaking?
Open to all points of view, dont think there really is a correct answer unless a lot has changed over the last 15 years from when I really played alot... :)
 
I felt the same...used a cheap Taiwan Sneaky for a break cue in order to not mushroom the tip of my playing cue.

Then I got my hands on a Pechauer break cue...

Not saying it's the only break cue, or the best. But yes, cues made specifically for the break shot do break better than a playing cue.
 
alerotaz said:
Maybe I am about to show Im stupid to some people but...

I have never had a so called break cue. I have had 2 shafts incase one got messed up. I have had two cues at the same event incase I wanted a change due to a table. I was told two differnt things... why would you not break with your cue? If it cant handle it then its no good anyway.. and other s would say it can mess with the tips on the cue.
I even tried the tips with the layer of what looked like rubber between the leather and the cue.

Question is, what reaaly is the main purpose of a break cue and if you really need one why not just buy a cheap Duffrin or Cutec for just breaking?
Open to all points of view, dont think there really is a correct answer unless a lot has changed over the last 15 years from when I really played alot... :)
Click to expand...


I own and use the Mezz Power Break II. The cue is designed to have a hard tip and stiff shaft. This allows more energy transfer to the cue ball. It is shorter and you can add/remove weights. This can help with generating stroke speed.

Do you really need a dedicated break cue? Well that is really up to each person. I can't answer that for you. I will say that breaking with a OB2 always makes me nervous with the really thin diameter.
 
Here is the bottom line::

IF YOU CAN'T BREAK AND RUN, OR RUN MORE THAN 4 BALLS AT A TIME, YOU DON'T NEED A BREAK CUE.

Simple as that. Why buy a break cue if improving your break won't improve your game? Players focus too much on stuff they don't need, like fancy inlays, ivory, and $30 chalk, when what they really need is just more practice running racks. You may have the best break cue in the world that makes 3 balls on the break every time, but if you can't run the remaining 6, why bother? Get your runouts down, then get a break cue that will allow you to make those runouts consistently.
 
alerotaz said:
Maybe I am about to show Im stupid to some people but...

I have never had a so called break cue. I have had 2 shafts incase one got messed up. I have had two cues at the same event incase I wanted a change due to a table. I was told two differnt things... why would you not break with your cue? If it cant handle it then its no good anyway.. and other s would say it can mess with the tips on the cue.
I even tried the tips with the layer of what looked like rubber between the leather and the cue.

Question is, what reaaly is the main purpose of a break cue and if you really need one why not just buy a cheap Duffrin or Cutec for just breaking?
Open to all points of view, dont think there really is a correct answer unless a lot has changed over the last 15 years from when I really played alot... :)
Click to expand...

I don't know, but why not just buy a VW beetle instead of the ride in your avatar, they are both cars, and will both get you to work and the store, correct? just asking ??
 
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alerotaz said:
Question is, what reaaly is the main purpose of a break cue and if you really need one why not just buy a cheap Duffrin or Cutec for just breaking?
Click to expand...

Break cues are purpose-built.

SkyscraperChris said:
IF YOU CAN'T BREAK AND RUN, OR RUN MORE THAN 4 BALLS AT A TIME, YOU DON'T NEED A BREAK CUE.

Simple as that. Why buy a break cue if improving your break won't improve your game? Players focus too much on stuff they don't need, like fancy inlays, ivory, and $30 chalk, when what they really need is just more practice running racks. You may have the best break cue in the world that makes 3 balls on the break every time, but if you can't run the remaining 6, why bother? Get your runouts down, then get a break cue that will allow you to make those runouts consistently.
Click to expand...

You say two things.. don't buy a break cue until you run out consistently, but then say a break cue will help you run out more consistently. I know APA 2s and 3s that have spent more on pool equipment in one go than I have since I started. If they want it, who cares?

ChicagoRJ said:
I don't know, but why not just buy a VW beetle instedd of the ride in your avatar, they are both cars, and will both get you to work and the store, correct? just asking ??
Click to expand...

What he said.

I have a break/jump and can't remember the last time I used it. Maybe used it for jumping at a regional last month, but I prefer to kick and break just fine with my own cue(which probably costs less than either of the OP's shafts).
 
SkyscraperChris said:
Here is the bottom line::

IF YOU CAN'T BREAK AND RUN, OR RUN MORE THAN 4 BALLS AT A TIME, YOU DON'T NEED A BREAK CUE.

Simple as that. Why buy a break cue if improving your break won't improve your game? Players focus too much on stuff they don't need, like fancy inlays, ivory, and $30 chalk, when what they really need is just more practice running racks. You may have the best break cue in the world that makes 3 balls on the break every time, but if you can't run the remaining 6, why bother? Get your runouts down, then get a break cue that will allow you to make those runouts consistently.
Click to expand...



A break cue still gives a weak player more options after the break. Even if the player can't get out they still want to spread'em on the break. I mean we are human right?
 
break cues

isnt that why they made cuetec ?


8 ball I break soft , i use my reg playing cue.kamui ss tip.
very rare that i dont make a ball on the break.

9 ball I smash them, I have a old cuetec with a lepro tip.

MMike
 
I used the break app to compare my break speeds between my BK2, my Wife's Pechauer with 314, my Huebler sneaky with an OB2, my Daughter's McDermott, and a random house cue off the wall. The BK2 bested them all from 2-4 mph with my OB2 bringing up the rear (soft hit, softish tip).

But its not all about speed is it? The BK2 was more forgiving than the McD (a lot) & house cue (by light years)...I'm not a robot & I tend to mis-hit the break. Imagine the value of that larger "sweet spot" for the total novice. By the advice above, they shouldn't get a break cue...but I say they are the player that will benefit MOST.

How's this for OT...I say new players might be chased away from the game by using those requisite house cues. Those ill-playing things are torture for avid players. It takes us a long time to get accustomed to them...even when we do they play like garbage. Imagine that poor newb that can't figure out why he never makes a ball. A good cue in his hand might make the game somewhat enjoyable and spawn more participation.
 
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alerotaz said:
Maybe I am about to show Im stupid to some people but...

I have never had a so called break cue. I have had 2 shafts incase one got messed up. I have had two cues at the same event incase I wanted a change due to a table. I was told two differnt things... why would you not break with your cue? If it cant handle it then its no good anyway.. and other s would say it can mess with the tips on the cue.
I even tried the tips with the layer of what looked like rubber between the leather and the cue.

Question is, what reaaly is the main purpose of a break cue and if you really need one why not just buy a cheap Duffrin or Cutec for just breaking?
Open to all points of view, dont think there really is a correct answer unless a lot has changed over the last 15 years from when I really played alot... :)
Click to expand...

If you are a good golfer, would you buy a cheap driver?
 
I probably shouldn't respond to this but I will because if I am doing it wrong, I am here to learn. I use and like soft tips on my playing cue. I tend to shoot as softly as possible.

When I started playing in a league I noticed I rarely made a ball on the break and that I was a bit hesitant to really fire at the cue ball. I bought an inexpensive break, jump cue, it has what I would call a straight pyramid shaft (no elongated taper like my playing cue)to a 13 mm, medium hard leather tip. I am confident I can't hit hard enough with it to damage the cue, so I fire away.

For whatever reason I now make a ball on the break (8 ball and nine ball) more often than not and :cool: sometimes more than one. (last week I broke and made four stripes on an 8 ball break :D , ok, lost the rack though :frown:)

Does any of that prove anything? Idk, maybe just that I needed more confidence in my break shot? Maybe the equipment works better?
 
break cue

If you play with a med or soft tip it will very soon be a hard tip if you break with it.
 
alerotaz said:
Maybe I am about to show Im stupid to some people but...

I have never had a so called break cue. I have had 2 shafts incase one got messed up. I have had two cues at the same event incase I wanted a change due to a table. I was told two differnt things... why would you not break with your cue? If it cant handle it then its no good anyway.. and other s would say it can mess with the tips on the cue.
I even tried the tips with the layer of what looked like rubber between the leather and the cue.

Question is, what reaaly is the main purpose of a break cue and if you really need one why not just buy a cheap Duffrin or Cutec for just breaking?
Open to all points of view, dont think there really is a correct answer unless a lot has changed over the last 15 years from when I really played alot... :)
Click to expand...

Yeah, really. The main purpose of a break cue really is to break with. Use whatever you like, but for breaking...try a break cue. Have you tried one? Doesn't sound like it. Try it, there's quite a difference. Really. Also, there's something else new that you may not have heard of yet...it's called a jump cue...they're used for jumping. Or just use your playing cue. Whatever floats your boat....live and let live. Wonder why so many pros use them.
 
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I play with an LD shaft that is hollow for about 4 inches behind the ferrule. Do you think I'm going to smash a cueball on a regular basis with this type of shaft?

Maniac
 
Don't get caught up in the "I gatta have a heavy break cue."

The hardest break happens when the cue ball is going the fastest and hits the head ball straight on to transfer the most energy to the rack.

Many think a heavy cue transfers more energy to the cue ball. This is only true when the break cue strikes the cue ball at maximum speed. The cue ball has the most energy when it is going the fastest and not from hitting it with a heavy cue.

You cannot accelerate a heavy cue as fast as you can a lighter cue.

A hard tip will bounce the cue ball from the end of the break cue faster than a soft tip.

A hard and stiff shaft seems to help but some pros flex the shaft on the break very much.

Use a break cue that weighs the same as your shooter. Have a hard tip and a stiff shaft. Accurately hit the cue ball and the head ball with the highest speed possible.

The cue ball needs to end up in the center of the table for the best chance of a run out.

Kim
 
mortuarymike-nv said:
8 ball I break soft

9 ball I smash them

MMike
Click to expand...

Copy that. I've been complimented on my break so many times during 9 ball. I swing hard and strong. We have an old nameless cue that was bought used off eBay 10 years ago it's super light with a hard tip I love to break with that thing. Now everyone in our team is hooked.

Last Monday I broke with my playing cue... I felt so sad and I have no idea why I forgot to switch (maybe cuz I was playing this lady who had locked her sight on shooting a match against yours truly. It was hard, she's two levels above me). I still won. Point is I don't want to blow out my cue just so I can break, it's special to me.
 
Maniac said:
I play with an LD shaft that is hollow for about 4 inches behind the ferrule. Do you think I'm going to smash a cueball on a regular basis with this type of shaft?

Maniac
Click to expand...

I've got a Pred. 314 shaft on my Schon, and have been breaking with it for years with no problem. I do have a hard tip on it though. Soft tip, you might want a dedicated cue.
 
I'l play...

I have a break cue cause it's another cue. How is there any arguement against having more cues ?

/end thread/
 
I've read more than one cue maker saying that if you can't break with the cue they made then it isn't made right.

That being said. You might want to have a cue dedicated to breaking that you can put a hard tip on so that you don't harden up the tip on your playing cue.

And just to be clear, I've had a dedicated breaking cue for years. Sometimes I use it, sometimes I don't.
 
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