Breaking with your cue?

TheNewSharkster said:
I disagree. Power draw (applying backspin from across table) is almost the same except you drill it with low spin. Also, when I break I am not trying to bash it as hard as I can because I always send the cue ball off the table. I still slam the rack nicely though.

If your cue ball is flying off of the table on your break, you are hitting DOWN on the cue ball, with the stick's butt elevated. That sends the cue ball INTO the table & making it slightly airborn. Then when it hits the rack, it will be hitting slightly ABOVE CENTER. That will send the cue ball off of the table. You will be better off, by keeping the stick more level. Then you'll be delivering ALL of your power into the ball, instead of downward...JER
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
If your cue ball is flying off of the table on your break, you are hitting DOWN on the cue ball, with the stick's butt elevated. That sends the cue ball INTO the table & making it slightly airborn. Then when it hits the rack, it will be hitting slightly ABOVE CENTER. That will send the cue ball off of the table. You will be better off, by keeping the stick more level. Then you'll be delivering ALL of your power into the ball, instead of downward...JER



I am fairly inconsistent when I try to hit it as hard as I can. If I smack them hard with a good stroke I keep the ball on the table everytime. I agree with the cause of the ball flying off the table though. Part of that particular problem is I like to put the bridge hand on the rail.
 
TheNewSharkster said:
I am fairly inconsistent when I try to hit it as hard as I can. If I smack them hard with a good stroke I keep the ball on the table everytime. I agree with the cause of the ball flying off the table though. Part of that particular problem is I like to put the bridge hand on the rail.

Putting your hand on the rail isn't a problem. You just need to make a longer bridge. Just get your hand further away from the CB, and it might solved your problem.
 
> Back in the late 80's,particularly in '89,Nick Varner always broke with the same ivory ferruled,steel jointed Joss,for the reason that he knew what that cue was going to do on a given shot. He correctly noted that the break was the most important shot of the game,and didn't want something even sort of unfamiliar in his hands.

The technology/science of break cues has improved since,and he changed his philosophy. He also adapted his personal break technique to compete with the hand-forward power breakers like Archer,Earl,CJ Wiley,etc.

As far as breaking with a high-end Szam or something similar,why not? If the cue can't take it,why did it leave the shop? Chances are,that Szam someone mentioned more than likely hits great,so it should make a great break cue.

That being said,I probably would choose to continue breaking with my current Joss SP if I owned that Szam myself,unless the Szam worked better.

Unless you are Larry Nevel,Jon Kucharo,or Hillbilly,you probably CAN'T break an ivory ferrule at room temperature playing pool with it. In my experience,weather cracks more ivory ferrules than breaking does.

Thin,hard tips are also generally preferred by most people with break cues. Those probably aren't a good idea with an unpadded ivory like my Schon,but with a normal height tip,no worries.

The one cue I want the most to break the balls with is also a damn fine playing cue,a plain-jane ebony Cognoscenti. The one I tried and missed out on by 30 minutes was absolutely amazing. In 20 breaks,I parked the cue ball within 4" of where I wanted every single time. The balls exploded like I've never seen with another cue,with an old Moori that felt like the Talisman UH.

I play with an ivory ferruled Schon,and most certainly do break the balls with it,just as hard as I do with my Joss,but only when I'm goofing off locally like in a bar. I've had ferrules crack from sitting around too long,and on one occasion where I let it get cold,but never cracked or chipped one breaking with it. If I'm playing in a tournament or in the box,I use the Joss,because it works BETTER. On the other hand,I'd be upset if something happened to that Joss,but wouldn't be losing a whole lot if I HAD to break with my Schon. Tommy D.
 
Corey Harper breaks with his Carmelli. Ariel told me that his cues are built so well that breaking with them is no problem..:)

C. Sardo breaks with his 30+ year old Schrager to this day.
 
crack, or shatter

WesleyW said:
The ferrule of a 314 will crack for sure. It has a really soft ferrule. Cracks easily.
Shatter is more like it. My buddy, who doesn't break hard, shattered his in a 100 pieces by breaking with it!
Jeremy
 
poolhustler said:
Corey Harper breaks with his Carmelli. Ariel told me that his cues are built so well that breaking with them is no problem..:)

C. Sardo breaks with his 30+ year old Schrager to this day.

Russ,

you forgot the best example...(btw, I broke with my 40 year old Gina for the whole 40 years I owned it), and you should know since you play in the same room he does....Ernie Gutierrez not only breaks with his 30+ year old ivory handled, ivory jointed, ivory ferruled Gina, but in the ring game he plays in they ALL break with it! (he plays with a different cue). It always makes me laugh, 20+ thousand dollar break cue...but even though I always thought I had a really good break as a kid, I will admit that some of the breaks I see now seem almost super-sonic.

I guess the moral of the story may be that while the great quality cues will almost certainly hold up fine ('cept the tip), the safest thing is prob'ly a dedicated break cue.

Joe
 
ScottR said:
Played with a guy about a month ago and he breaks with his fairly fancy Gus Szamboti. He always has and it is over 20 years old. You have to love it.

I broke with my playing cue {Joss East} with ivory ferrules all the time I had it, which was about 4 years, IIRC, and never had a problem. I knew a {at the time} young player out of Syracuse, NY, whose name escapes me at the moment, who had two Szambotis with steel joints and ivory ferrules that he always broke with. I asked him about it and he said he didn't have any problems breaking with either cue.
 
Depends how much your playing cue is worth. If you seem to break very well with it and the cue is under a few hundred, I say break with it. If it's worth more I wouldn't. JMO. A few hundred is chicken feed to some on here, but they would all have more expensive cues anyway. Johnnyt
 
WesleyW said:
The ferrule of a 314 will crack for sure. It has a really soft ferrule. Cracks easily.
I wouldn't use a 314 shaft to break with. They are designed as playing shafts with low deflection and not designed to be used for breaking. Breaking will shorten the life of your playing tip also. Good break cues are cheap so i'd invest in one and not risk any damage to my playing cue.

You might break with your playing cue and not have any problems, but why take the risk if you have a nice playing cue which wasn't designed to smash racks of balls.

James
 
SCCues said:
I wouldn't use a 314 shaft to break with. They are designed as playing shafts with low deflection and not designed to be used for breaking. Breaking will shorten the life of your playing tip also.
I break with my playing cue too, using a Predator 314-2 shaft and a Moori medium tip. I've found that I need to replace the tip every 4 months or so.
 
I own a plain jane Joss (east) that has been retired since I got my Jacoby with a 314 shaft. I think I will just use it as a break cue now since more than person mentioned how well the Joss breaks :)
 
its all in the stroke

just after beating alcono in Reno shane told (the viewers, live from reno,inside pool intertview- just who he emmulates,Mike S. And N.varner's break. mark
 
I'm in the "break with your playing cue" camp. I've owned dozens of cues over the years, including exotic stuff like Balabushkas, Szambotis, Joss West, Cognoscenti, Ginacue, and many more. Every cuemaker I've ever talked to told me that if you can't break with your cue, it "ain't worth crap". :D I currently play, and break, with a $4000 custom Samsara. I use layered tips, and they NEVER mushroom, delaminate, or anything. Like Neil, I never do anything to my tips, except chalk them. Mine, however, last for at least a couple of years.

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
 
WesleyW said:
The ferrule of a 314 will crack for sure. It has a really soft ferrule. Cracks easily.

I know a guy who breaks with a cue with a 314 and has been for some time, and he breaks them as hard as anyone I know. And he has been using the same 314 with no problems. So there is no certainty the ferrule will crack.
 
TheNewSharkster said:
I know people who swear up and down that you shouldn't break with your playing cue. I know some break cues are designed for a better break but if you use a regular cue are you really risking any damage? I mean a good solid break isn't much harder of a hit than a power draw shot which I will apply without thinking twice about.

What is everyones opinion on this?

assuming your using decent equipment...

It depends on your break.. if your of the "jump up in the air hit it absolutely as hard as you possibly can and let out a banshee scream when your done" school... then you will gloss your tip over pretty quickly and therefore have to scuff it a little more often.. increasing the rate of wear on your tip...

however if your of the same school I am.. "hit the rack just hard enough to send a ball to every rail" then the tip damage is minimal and go ahead and break with your cue.

accuracy trumps power... and lets you use your regular cue...
 
Last edited:
junksecret said:
Russ,

you forgot the best example...(btw, I broke with my 40 year old Gina for the whole 40 years I owned it), and you should know since you play in the same room he does....Ernie Gutierrez not only breaks with his 30+ year old ivory handled, ivory jointed, ivory ferruled Gina, but in the ring game he plays in they ALL break with it! (he plays with a different cue). It always makes me laugh, 20+ thousand dollar break cue...but even though I always thought I had a really good break as a kid, I will admit that some of the breaks I see now seem almost super-sonic.

I guess the moral of the story may be that while the great quality cues will almost certainly hold up fine ('cept the tip), the safest thing is prob'ly a dedicated break cue.

Joe

Correct as usual Joe !!!!!
 
I bought a break/jump stick years ago, after the first break, my new 3 piece cue was a four piece. The manufacturer backed up their product.

I use both cues to break with, but more often use the break cue because I hit em hard. Have you ever got a "rope burn" on your thumb from the linen? Maybe my follow through is a little much sometimes.
 
Back
Top