Bridge length for maximum draw.

mnorwood

mnorwood

Moon
Silver Member
I have read and heard arguments for a close bridge or a long bridge to gain maximum draw. I would like to hear arguments for one or both approaches.
 
Man after spending the holidays with my relatives I don't feel like arguing...I'd say try them both for a while and see what works best for you and then use that as your main technique:)
 
mnorwood said:
I have read and heard arguments for a close bridge or a long bridge to gain maximum draw. I would like to hear arguments for one or both approaches.
Click to expand...
Well you have got me. I was using a close to cueball bridge with a closed bridge as to an open bridge.
Doing OK for me, then went to more distance from the Cueball.
Now using a differnt tip, I am drawing alot better and it does not seem to be critical for the bridge length.
I have to now learn the draw controll. Often especially when I am slightly left or right on the cue ball, I get alot more draw than when I am in the midddle.
Just a can of worms that I am trying to figure out.
May not be the help you are looking for, But that is where I am at.
Neil
 
The equation for obtaining maximum draw is simple and involves only two things. The cue tip should hit the CB as low as possible and the cue tip should be traveling as fast as possible, all without miscuing. That's all. Bridge length comes into the equation only to the extent as how much it affects tip placement and speed.

A longer bridge might help you obtain greater cue tip velocity on impact (assuming a constant cue acceleration and that stroke length is in proportion to bridge length). However, a shorter bridge might help you in tip placement accuracy such that you more reliably hit the CB as low as possible without miscuing.

Precise cue tip placement is definitely harder to achieve than a high cue tip velocity. So for a beginner, I would recommend a shorter bridge length to obtain greater draw.
 
Depends on the length of the cue ball from the object ball. If they are close...either is fine for maximum draw. If they are far away, I prefer a closed bridge as I need to hit a select point with no degree of error...and I like the way the closed bridge works for me.

It is all player preference though. The draw shot, especially the power draw is a true feel shot...and the individual needs to practice them to find out what all works best.
 
jsp said:
The equation for obtaining maximum draw is simple and involves only two things. The cue tip should hit the CB as low as possible and the cue tip should be traveling as fast as possible, all without miscuing. That's all. Bridge length comes into the equation only to the extent as how much it affects tip placement and speed.

A longer bridge might help you obtain greater cue tip velocity on impact (assuming a constant cue acceleration and that stroke length is in proportion to bridge length). However, a shorter bridge might help you in tip placement accuracy such that you more reliably hit the CB as low as possible without miscuing.

Precise cue tip placement is definitely harder to achieve than a high cue tip velocity. So for a beginner, I would recommend a shorter bridge length to obtain greater draw.
Click to expand...

I agree with Joe. A consequence of this is for the really best players amongst us, a bridge length close to their own-break shot bridge length might give them maximum draw. This is the bridge length that evidently gives them maximum speed with control. For many of the rest of us, the quality of our tip placement deteriorates more rapidly with bridge length and our optimal bridge length for maximum draw would be shorter. For new players it would be very short, imo.
 
Here's a thought.

My normal bridge length is 9". That's where, after years of Traning, I have found that my Draw and Follow are at it's best. I call it my "sweet spot" and that's why it's my normal bridge length. Therefore a longer/shorter bridge may reduce my results because I'm not in my "sweet spot". It is part of my Shooting Template.

That's way too much thought.....SPF=randyg
 
I personally get more draw with an open bridge. Here is a shot I was practicing because it was in Mike Massey's trick shot book (in the skill shot section).

With the closed bridge I can get to cueball A consistently but with an Open bridge i can get anywhere from cueball A to cueball B. I've only got to cueball B 3 or 4 times out of the 25 tried. It's a lot harder then it looks.

CueTable Help

 
That sort of draw what be almost impossible on my table, it has slow chinese cloth, that must be done using pretty good fast cloth?
 
either or

Either one works ONLY if you have a long stroke, the further you push through the cb the more draw you will get. You can get great results with a short length stroke but a long stroke really gets that cue ball moving. Massey reveals that HIS secret on power drawing is keeping the wrist loose and snapping it foward in the stroke. works like a charm
 
i didnt' feel like reading threw the rest of the post, but here is my opinion.

you can have maximum draw in both short and long bridges. In a short bridge i tend to punch at the CB, minimal follow threw with 6 o'clock english of course. This gets the CB coming back 2-3 table lengths for me. But i also use a bridge about 1' 1-1/2' away from the CB with lots of follow threw with low english to do the same thing. It's all in preference i guess! you could always pull a Stefano Pelinga and come on the top of the CB and draw the ball 10 table lengths! lol...
 
PistolPat said:
Either one works ONLY if you have a long stroke, the further you push through the cb the more draw you will get. You can get great results with a short length stroke but a long stroke really gets that cue ball moving. Massey reveals that HIS secret on power drawing is keeping the wrist loose and snapping it foward in the stroke. works like a charm
Click to expand...


Sorry. Just not true.....SPF=randyg
 
PistolPat...Since the tip is in contact with the CB for only about 1/1000th of a second, the distance you "push" through the CB is irrelevant to the amount of draw you get. What is true, is that the more fluid your stroke is, and the lower you are able to strike the CB accurately, the more draw you'll get! Having a shooting template, designed around how your arm works with your body, facilitates letting the cuestick do all the work, for this type of stroke, as well as any other.

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com

PistolPat said:
Either one works ONLY if you have a long stroke, the further you push through the cb the more draw you will get. You can get great results with a short length stroke but a long stroke really gets that cue ball moving. Massey reveals that HIS secret on power drawing is keeping the wrist loose and snapping it foward in the stroke. works like a charm
Click to expand...
 
mnorwood said:
I have read and heard arguments for a close bridge or a long bridge to gain maximum draw. I would like to hear arguments for one or both approaches.
Click to expand...

I normally shoot with a longer-than-average bridge, about 12-13", but I find on power shots I can't use a bridge that long and get consistent results, so I shorten it a bit, probably to 8-9". That leaves me plenty of room to accelerate before I get to the ball, but less room for my stroke to veer off target. When shortening your bridge, it's important to remember to move your grip hand forward by the same amount, so instead of stretching your bridge hand forward, you just move your whole self forward as a unit in relation to the cue and CB.

-Andrew
 
mikepage said:
jsp said:
The equation for obtaining maximum draw is simple and involves only two things. The cue tip should hit the CB as low as possible and the cue tip should be traveling as fast as possible, all without miscuing. That's all. Bridge length comes into the equation only to the extent as how much it affects tip placement and speed.

A longer bridge might help you obtain greater cue tip velocity on impact (assuming a constant cue acceleration and that stroke length is in proportion to bridge length). However, a shorter bridge might help you in tip placement accuracy such that you more reliably hit the CB as low as possible without miscuing.

Precise cue tip placement is definitely harder to achieve than a high cue tip velocity. So for a beginner, I would recommend a shorter bridge length to obtain greater draw.
Click to expand...
I agree with Joe. A consequence of this is for the really best players amongst us, a bridge length close to their own-break shot bridge length might give them maximum draw. This is the bridge length that evidently gives them maximum speed with control. For many of the rest of us, the quality of our tip placement deteriorates more rapidly with bridge length and our optimal bridge length for maximum draw would be shorter. For new players it would be very short, imo.
Click to expand...
I also agree with both Joe and Mike.

FYI, more advice on achieving good draw action can be found here:


Regards,
Dave
 
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