Bridge Pivot For BHE
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When using back hand english, as you change your bridge to be closer to the cue ball, you need less applied english (the measurement that you use in tips from center ball) to match your effective english (the amount of actual spin you put on the cue ball).
If you're saying that you switched cues and found that the new cue works from 8 inches away about the same as the old cue did from 10 inches away, then I would say the new one has a slight difference in deflection, assuming the tip is the same, you're hitting it the same speed, etc.
If you're saying that you switched cues and found that the new cue works from 8 inches away about the same as the old cue did from 10 inches away, then I would say the new one has a slight difference in deflection, assuming the tip is the same, you're hitting it the same speed, etc.
Bridge at 10", pivot, and then slide your bridge forward 2" along that line.
Try using a bigger diameter shaft e.g. bigger than 13.25mm or denser front end shaft.
The down fall is that when you are stretching/reaching a cueball further away from you, your brigde lengthened hence it will effect you shot with english especially when you speed up the cue ball.
13.1 to 13mm shaft will be just nice but you have to use a 10"~12" bridge distance. So it is best that you trained yourself to use this bridge length.
Hope this help.
The down fall is that when you are stretching/reaching a cueball further away from you, your brigde lengthened hence it will effect you shot with english especially when you speed up the cue ball.
13.1 to 13mm shaft will be just nice but you have to use a 10"~12" bridge distance. So it is best that you trained yourself to use this bridge length.
Hope this help.
Basically what Spider said, but another way of looking at it:
You need a combination of FHE and BHE to get the same vector into the cueball as a pivot at the cue's pivot point would deliver.
If you are bridging behind the cue's pivot point, a slight shift to the opposite side before pivoting with the back hand. If you are bridging in front of the pivot point, a slight shift to the same side that the english is applied, then pivot with the back hand.
You need a combination of FHE and BHE to get the same vector into the cueball as a pivot at the cue's pivot point would deliver.
If you are bridging behind the cue's pivot point, a slight shift to the opposite side before pivoting with the back hand. If you are bridging in front of the pivot point, a slight shift to the same side that the english is applied, then pivot with the back hand.
I had low deflection shaft made and decided I wanted some tip deflection added back into it to adjust the pivot point... We added a largish carbon fiber pad under the tip and got the results I wanted......
I say tune the equipment to what you like instead of learning to play with something new....
I say tune the equipment to what you like instead of learning to play with something new....
That's the silliest thing I ever heard.
Never mind all this BS and over thinking.................
Just practice shooting the ball in the pocket until you get better.
Willie Mosconi didn't worry about squirt (what ever the fck that is) or deflection or BHE from BFE...............
Kim
I'd say you are very wrong.
Whatever pivot you select, remember that it will vary according to the speed of the shot and the distance to the object ball. Not a lot, but enough.
Lots of cuemakers and repair guys are the same way.... They glue some wood together and stick a piece of leather on the end of it and there you go....... Either you like it or you don't....
I am lucky enough to have a friend who makes cues that is willing to adjust everything on a cue to tune it in to playing the way I want it to....
Why would anyone want to have to learn to play with a new set of variables when they have thousands of hours in already..... I have an exact mental image of what the cueball does off the tip of my cue.... If the cue I am using doesn't make the ball match that image I can either learn a new image or I can have the cue adjusted...... I will always choose option b....
And as far as Willie is concerned he's been dead since before all of the LD shafts came to market... Heck he might have run 1026 with a LD shaft.....
The OP asked how to change the pivot point... I offered a solution for doing exactly that..
This just in... The world isn't flat... It's round like a cueball and if it were to be struck off center with an unimaginably large cue it would squirt.....
there's a way to know exactly how much FHE to use
There;s an easy way to know how much FHE to use. Mark your pivot point on the cue once you find it. I've marked mine with a ring drawn on the shaft with a sharpie. Then once you find your aim line, pivot while sliding your hand in order to keep the pivot point on the original line. That way if you can't bridge at the pivot point, you can still be sure that your pivoting on it.
Jaden
There;s an easy way to know how much FHE to use. Mark your pivot point on the cue once you find it. I've marked mine with a ring drawn on the shaft with a sharpie. Then once you find your aim line, pivot while sliding your hand in order to keep the pivot point on the original line. That way if you can't bridge at the pivot point, you can still be sure that your pivoting on it.
Jaden
Results will also vary with cloth conditions and cue elevation. And on many shots, throw (CIT or SIT) will also be a factor.
If people want more info dealing with these topics, articles and video demonstrations are available here:
Regards,
Dave