Burnishing or Micro-grit papers for shafts

K

kasparovII

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
What approach should I take to maintain a smooth, slick shaft w/o screwing up the shaft itself by removing wood during the process? Guys like Varner offer cheap, rewashable micro-grit papers that clean and smooth the finish w/o removing wood (so they say) and they seem to work pretty well.Yet I hear that they do take a small amount of wood off the shaft and the best way to keep a shaft smooth and sealed is using a burnisher....which looks like a piece if leather attached to a sponge-like material and cost about $6 to $8 dollars.
So, what should I use to keep my shafts clean,smooth and in good shape w/o removing any of the wood?
Thanks in advance,

KasII
 
leather works great to burnish, the main thing is clean hands and always remove the chalk from your tip before putting your cue back in the case.
 
> Those papers you refer to (Nick's Edge),are just small pieces of 3M Imperial Lapping Film,which can be had in 9" x 11" sheets if you look hard enough. They DO remove wood,but so slight it would take weeks or months to notice any difference. Sometimes,you have to take a little off to get the grain to lay flat after a deep cleaning,etc,so don't sweat that as much.

They DO work well,but be careful to not let the papers get creased and keep them clean with a little soapy water between uses. Also,be VERY careful if you use these while the shaft is spinning in a lathe,you can easily generate enough heat to melt them. Tommy D.
 
Clean hands.
Clean shaft w/denatured alcohol.
Wipe clean/dry with towel.
Couple swipes with 1000 or 2000 grit, as needed.
Leather burnisher.
 
JimS said:
Clean hands.
Clean shaft w/denatured alcohol.
Wipe clean/dry with towel.
Couple swipes with 1000 or 2000 grit, as needed.
Leather burnisher.
Click to expand...

Thanks to all for the shaft cleaning advice. I appreciate the time it takes to answer a question and you guys always are willing to help.

Thanks,
KasparovII
 
I live in Canada and can't find denatured alcohol here. Would either Ronson lighter fluid or fondue fuel be an exceptable substitute for cleaning shafts. TIA.

Steelman
 
Steelman said:
I live in Canada and can't find denatured alcohol here. Would either Ronson lighter fluid or fondue fuel be an exceptable substitute for cleaning shafts. TIA.

Steelman
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I've said it a 100 times. I've always wondered why someone would use alcohol to clean a shaft. If I want to clean something (a shaft for instance) I use a cleaning solution. If I want to disinfect something, I would use a disinfectant. So, if I want to clean a shaft I'll use ammonia, if I intend to operate on someone, then I'll use alcohol.

Dick
 
Denatured alchohol is wonderful for cleaning shafts with. It works as a solvent and breaks down all the grease and stuff that builds up over time.If you really want to save a couple of bucks you can use pure corn alcohol and it will do the job just as well. You do have ot watch using 'cleaners' as they often contain water which can cause the shaft (or any wood for that matter) to swell.

Chris
 
My first post!

hdgis1 said:
Denatured alchohol is wonderful for cleaning shafts with. It works as a solvent and breaks down all the grease and stuff that builds up over time.If you really want to save a couple of bucks you can use pure corn alcohol and it will do the job just as well. You do have ot watch using 'cleaners' as they often contain water which can cause the shaft (or any wood for that matter) to swell.

Chris
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Only 2000 more to go until anyone actually listens to what I have to say!
 
rhncue said:
I've said it a 100 times. I've always wondered why someone would use alcohol to clean a shaft. If I want to clean something (a shaft for instance) I use a cleaning solution. If I want to disinfect something, I would use a disinfectant. So, if I want to clean a shaft I'll use ammonia, if I intend to operate on someone, then I'll use alcohol.

Dick
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How good does ammonia work to clean shafts? I have only used rubbing alcohol and "cueman shaft cleaner". Is it safer for the shaft? The good thing about alcohol is that it dries really fast.
 
Steelman said:
I live in Canada and can't find denatured alcohol here. Would either Ronson lighter fluid or fondue fuel be an exceptable substitute for cleaning shafts. TIA.

Steelman
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Maybe you can find grain alcohol at a liquor store. The most common one is called Everclear. My understanding is that it comes in 151 proof and 190 proof, depending on the state - I don't know anything about Canada. 190 proof is 95% ethanol and would be just as good as denatured alcohol - better, actually, because you can drink it too. It is more expensive than denatured alcohol in the states because of taxes.
 
Burnishing

A couple months ago I picked some 'Micro-mesh' cushioned abrasives with 1500, 1800, 2400, 3200, 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000 and 12000 grit cloth. One pass through those and the shaft is slicker than a greased minnows pecker and it stays that way for a long time. They have a website at http://micro-surface.com/
 
Ive used alcohol in my younger days. Now as a maker i realize it also breaks down the glue in layered tips and i wouldnt use it on ivory ferrules either.

Wash hands with soap and water. A lightly dampened (not wet) paper towel followed by a dry towel. Then 1000-1500 as needed
 
are you just looking for a way to keep your shaft smooth or are you looking for more? give me a call anytime

JACKAL
 
Steelman said:
I live in Canada and can't find denatured alcohol here. Would either Ronson lighter fluid or fondue fuel be an exceptable substitute for cleaning shafts. TIA.

Steelman
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Try Methyl Hydrate. Canadian Tire or any paint store has it. Denatured alcohol can be obtain from a drug store.
 
tap,tap,tap. Also, carry a small white washcloth with you. After you wash your hands and dry with a few paper towels, wipe your shaft with the damp towel followed by a vigorous wiping with the washcloth. Stay away from wax. Once every several months you can very lightly sand about 15" down from the ferrule with micromesh 1800 and 2400 and follow with the leather burnisher (Porper makes a good one and rawhide works fine too).

Martin



Captain K. said:
leather works great to burnish, the main thing is clean hands and always remove the chalk from your tip before putting your cue back in the case.
Click to expand...
 
micro-mesh

I've been using micro-mesh for years.
800/600 grid ........lightly...to open shaft grain & remove light dents
damp magic eraser.....clean dirt from shaft
1500/1800/2400/3200/3600/4000/6000/8000/12000 micro-mesh
smoooooth shaft
leather ......close shaft grain

the shaft is like glass.

above cleaning is done on lathe.

a little of smooth stroke talc on your bridge hand.

shaft glides thru bridge.....no resistance....sooooo slick



later,
sax
 
Steelman said:
I live in Canada and can't find denatured alcohol here. Would either Ronson lighter fluid or fondue fuel be an exceptable substitute for cleaning shafts. TIA.

Steelman
Click to expand...

denatured alcohol is carried at the hard ware store and is generally in the paint isle next to mineral spirits and paint thinner.

Tiddler said:
A couple months ago I picked some 'Micro-mesh' cushioned abrasives with 1500, 1800, 2400, 3200, 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000 and 12000 grit cloth. One pass through those and the shaft is slicker than a greased minnows pecker and it stays that way for a long time. They have a website at http://micro-surface.com/
Click to expand...

should we be concerned that you know what a greased minnows pecker feals like? :eek:
 
I use micro mesh as well. Have been using it for a while now. It is the best. Polishes ivory, and buck/buffalo horn up like a mofo.

I take damp magic eraser and if it's really dirty, I use ajax or comet and hot water. Then use the micro mesh after it has a chance to dry.

You only need to do that once in a blue moon.
 
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