> "Anybody ever use super glue to obtain a stiff wall and shiny surface?"
> I do,and I myself and probably 75% of the people I did it for loved how they looked afterwards,especially after a careful but thorough blackening with one of the chisel tip Industrial Sharpies,or Fiebings leather dye. The other 25% either didn't notice or I didn't directly point it out to them and they didn't object,not a single complaint. It seems to help mushrooming some too on certain tips. I have gotten to the point where I use the glue on the sides of Elk Masters right after I take my first pass,which in my case is .007 after touching off with my cutter. Most of those are so soft I can't seem to get my carbide cutters sharp enough to cut them clean,so I switch to the HSS cutters,and use the brush-on Loctite or Satellite City Hot Stuff with a special applicator to increase precise application,then wipe quickly. I take it a step further on these by reapplying a light coat after I've taken my last cut with the toolpost and before I finish up the last .005 or so with the razor blade. This helps stiffen the outer walls,and cuts mushrooming on these tips by probably half,at least with my customers that use them. On Triangles,I do it after getting the tip cut flush,and sanding with 400. I lightly polish it out to a nice flush matte surface with 600 or one of your wives/girlfriends 3-4 sided nail buffers. These are pretty much various graded Micro-Mesh on a stiff foam block or toungue depressor. I shine it the rest of the way up after my routine shaft cleaning. I've also found that Triangles are NOT what they used to be,which was pretty sweet. I press the crap out of them for people that like them hard,or want as little maintenance as possible. I press about 1/2 as much crap out for people that don't want them quite as hard,but still press them,maybe 15 out of a box didn't suck unpressed. I've had 3 out of 20 that I've used out of my current box pretty much explode when shaping or trimming. Tommy D.
