Burnishing Triangle tips

NineBallNut

NineBallNut

New member
Silver Member
I was installing a couple of triangle tips the other day, I did everything I normally do. Trim the tip with a blade on the lathe, quick shot with 600 grit then wet the sided of the tip and used a paper towel to apply heat. Both the triangles turned grey on the sides and did not get very shiny.
Is this a normal occurance with those or did I do something wrong?

Thanks in advance
 
Paper towel!?!?! there's your problem....use the backside of that 600 grit....
________
 
Last edited:
NineBallNut said:
I was installing a couple of triangle tips the other day, I did everything I normally do. Trim the tip with a blade on the lathe, quick shot with 600 grit then wet the sided of the tip and used a paper towel to apply heat. Both the triangles turned grey on the sides and did not get very shiny.
Is this a normal occurance with those or did I do something wrong?

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...


They are normally, A gray-brown color. It's the process they use, in tanning the leather...JER
 
Triangles are a much courser leather than many others so they won't burnish as well. The method you used is pretty much what I would have done. You can burnish with other materials besides paper towels, but beware that some soft ferrule materials will start to melt instantly if touched by leather or other materials.
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
 
NineBallNut said:
I was installing a couple of triangle tips the other day, I did everything I normally do. Trim the tip with a blade on the lathe, quick shot with 600 grit then wet the sided of the tip and used a paper towel to apply heat. Both the triangles turned grey on the sides and did not get very shiny.
Is this a normal occurance with those or did I do something wrong?

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...

Triangles don't burnish very well. Just put on a little paste wax and buff with a paper towel.
 
I've had the same experience with the gray color, but then again I use the paper towel method also. Greg
 
Thanks for the replies guys, I have never had a problem with any other tips, just these triangles. I just hate having a tip go out without that nice brown shiny look. I did use wax on it and it made a bit of difference. Anybody ever use super glue to obtain a stiff wall and shiny surface?
 
There was a thread about triangles a while back. Something has changed in the way tweeten is making them, they will not take a burnish as well, or hold up as well in general. The concensus on the last thread was they are skipping a pressing step in the manufacturing process, probably as well as using lesser grade leather.
If you vise the tips first, you will get better results, but they still are not the same tips they used to be. :(
Chuck
 
RiverCity said:
There was a thread about triangles a while back. Something has changed in the way tweeten is making them, they will not take a burnish as well, or hold up as well in general. The concensus on the last thread was they are skipping a pressing step in the manufacturing process, probably as well as using lesser grade leather.
If you vise the tips first, you will get better results, but they still are not the same tips they used to be. :(
Chuck
Click to expand...
They get mushy after a while too.
In fact they are brown on top now. The good ones were blueish.
 
> "Anybody ever use super glue to obtain a stiff wall and shiny surface?"


> I do,and I myself and probably 75% of the people I did it for loved how they looked afterwards,especially after a careful but thorough blackening with one of the chisel tip Industrial Sharpies,or Fiebings leather dye. The other 25% either didn't notice or I didn't directly point it out to them and they didn't object,not a single complaint. It seems to help mushrooming some too on certain tips. I have gotten to the point where I use the glue on the sides of Elk Masters right after I take my first pass,which in my case is .007 after touching off with my cutter. Most of those are so soft I can't seem to get my carbide cutters sharp enough to cut them clean,so I switch to the HSS cutters,and use the brush-on Loctite or Satellite City Hot Stuff with a special applicator to increase precise application,then wipe quickly. I take it a step further on these by reapplying a light coat after I've taken my last cut with the toolpost and before I finish up the last .005 or so with the razor blade. This helps stiffen the outer walls,and cuts mushrooming on these tips by probably half,at least with my customers that use them. On Triangles,I do it after getting the tip cut flush,and sanding with 400. I lightly polish it out to a nice flush matte surface with 600 or one of your wives/girlfriends 3-4 sided nail buffers. These are pretty much various graded Micro-Mesh on a stiff foam block or toungue depressor. I shine it the rest of the way up after my routine shaft cleaning. I've also found that Triangles are NOT what they used to be,which was pretty sweet. I press the crap out of them for people that like them hard,or want as little maintenance as possible. I press about 1/2 as much crap out for people that don't want them quite as hard,but still press them,maybe 15 out of a box didn't suck unpressed. I've had 3 out of 20 that I've used out of my current box pretty much explode when shaping or trimming. Tommy D.
 
> Joey,I agree about the bluish ones,but liked the really white ones too. For what it's worth,Earl used to use Triangles,and favored the white too. I know this because I went to Joe Blackburn's booth at the U.S. Open in 2000 to pick up a shaft I had retapered,and Earl walked up to have 2 shafts retipped with his own hand-picked Triangles. He said the whitish-gray and "sometimes" the blue looking ones worked best for him,claiming they had more "grit" in them. He said the 40 or so he had in a aspirin bottle in his case were his picks out of 10 boxes. Tommy D.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top