The cats out. True low deflection comes from rifling the hole! Helps guns shoot straighter, why haven't cues taken notice? Rifling+?????=profit right?
butt construction
- Thread starter Texas Carom Club
- Start date
The cats out. True low deflection comes from rifling the hole! Helps guns shoot straighter, why haven't cues taken notice? Rifling+?????=profit right?
Should anyone care I wrote a tutorial on coring a while back.
http://www.jimboarmy.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=6097
Sorry for the external link but I'm not going to copy all the stuff and write it again.
http://www.jimboarmy.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=6097
Sorry for the external link but I'm not going to copy all the stuff and write it again.
Threading a core....wow. Next thing you know we will see a 13'' thread mill or a button cutter and instructions for " the perfect threaded core".
Some steps need never be, that is one lol. :yeah::rotflmao:
Some steps need never be, that is one lol. :yeah::rotflmao:
Kim cores his sneakys and widows the entire length without any problems.
I think he goes in from each side.
Rick
Murray, I was meaning to ask a while back,Do you find any binding issues with the drill relief not being vertical ?
I myself have had chips getting caught when I do not have the relief sitting on top.
It may also be from not a high enough air pressure to force them out really fast of course.
Neil
I myself have had chips getting caught when I do not have the relief sitting on top.
It may also be from not a high enough air pressure to force them out really fast of course.
Neil
I keep the chip relief pointed down so the chips do not hit me in the face. I am running about 50 pounds of air pressure and have not had the chip sticking problem going 15 inches.
You can buy gun drills that would drill through a 30" butt from one side. But most people opt to drill in from both sides and meet in the middle. The main reason is the cost of the bit.
I have not seen anyone thread the core. But I have seen people thread the coring dowel to where it can hold a lot of glue. But it still just slips through.
I also saw a cuemaker using a really long boring bar to core with and he used his taper bar and bored through his forearms on a taper. Then he shoved a tapered core piece in. That made his wall thickness the same all the way through. It also allowed him to use any kind of glue he wanted to.
You can buy gun drills that would drill through a 30" butt from one side. But most people opt to drill in from both sides and meet in the middle. The main reason is the cost of the bit.
I have not seen anyone thread the core. But I have seen people thread the coring dowel to where it can hold a lot of glue. But it still just slips through.
I also saw a cuemaker using a really long boring bar to core with and he used his taper bar and bored through his forearms on a taper. Then he shoved a tapered core piece in. That made his wall thickness the same all the way through. It also allowed him to use any kind of glue he wanted to.
This is a good idea but tricky to achieve, trying to bore a 12" long bore with an ID of under 3/4" is not easy without a solid carbide or a devibe bar. That tooling is not cheap.
Isn't it a problem keeping a straight enough hole when drilling long?
Also, isn't it a problem drilling from both sides, for the same reason?
Also, isn't it a problem drilling from both sides, for the same reason?
Yes, that is a problem. That is why gun drills were invented. The bit is very special. The geometry of the business end is designed in such a way that it doesn't make its own hole, but it follows an existing hole very well without deviated. So, drill and bore a pilot hole and have at it and the length of the hole will be pretty accurate.
Edwin Reyes tried it once. I distinctly remember (don't remember the exact length) him posting his results here. He said it seemed like there was too much potential for glue starving causing threads to rub/vibrate together during play. I'd do a search but I'm lazy.
No, I have never had any issues but now that you said something I'm sure my next piece will explode.
Isn't it difficult to maintain a straight core when drilling long from both sides?
Was the curly maple stabilized?
Any experience with drilling stabilized wood?
Thanks in advance for your time.
Petros
There are many conversations on this subject in the archives.
Once you bore a starter hole the exact size of the head on a gun drill.... the drill maintains its own bore in a straight line.......... a regular twist drill will almost always walk off the center because it will try to follow the grain. There may be a slight ridge where the holes meet but it is not any concern.
I have drilled stabilized wood also .... it works great.
I don't bore a starter hole... I use a big delrin donut to hold the gun drill centered until it cuts into the piece...... Chris Hightower gave me this idea...
Kim
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Once you bore a starter hole the exact size of the head on a gun drill.... the drill maintains its own bore in a straight line.......... a regular twist drill will almost always walk off the center because it will try to follow the grain. There may be a slight ridge where the holes meet but it is not any concern.
I have drilled stabilized wood also .... it works great.
I don't bore a starter hole... I use a big delrin donut to hold the gun drill centered until it cuts into the piece...... Chris Hightower gave me this idea...
Kim
Thank you for sharing this info, very interesting!
Petros