butt size question

B

bbb

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ive noticed with some "slimmer" cues (they seem to also be lighter ie <19 oz)
seem like "pea shooters"
ie i feel very acurate but have to hit harder for same distance
on thicker butts heavier weight its easy to get the cue ball around the table but the "finesse" shots are harder
so here is my question
what do you cuemakers think about the pros/cons of butt size to hand size for playability
and would /do you change your "normal" butt size to a customers request??
 
bbb said:
ive noticed with some "slimmer" cues (they seem to also be lighter ie <19 oz)
seem like "pea shooters"
ie i feel very acurate but have to hit harder for same distance
on thicker butts heavier weight its easy to get the cue ball around the table but the "finesse" shots are harder
so here is my question
what do you cuemakers think about the pros/cons of butt size to hand size for playability
and would /do you change your "normal" butt size to a customers request??
Click to expand...
You can pick a thinner or fatter handle if you want ( up to a certain point ) .
From the middle of the handle down.
You don't get to mess around with the forearm size if I had my way.
 
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I would not....For these reasons. My cues play the way they do because of the construction, tapers, wood selection, and so on. If you start changing that, all the trial and error to get that certain feel goes away. In addition to all that if the cue changes hands the public will judge you on a cue that is not your usual taper etc....Just my 2 cents...
 
butt size

earlier cues had butt with some diameters of 1.35 or larger, or at least that is what i have found looking at the 500 - 600 old one piece house cues i have measured. i have converted 50 or so titlist, hoppe professional and early brunswick butterfly and full
splice cues and found the same to be true.

i was told that bill stroud and dan james set the standard at 1.25 when they opened joss cues. dont know if thats a fact, but its what i hear.

15 years ago i started building cues with a butt at 1.25, but over the years, i have started getting the butt a bit thiner, i build what i like to play with, and i have found that a thinner butt feels best to me. around 1.23 or 1.22.

i will try to build whatever the customer wants, if it is not to any extreme.
 
I build them thinner or thicker with 1.25" being the standard.
But those fatter and thinner cues seem to get traded around so much that I wish I had not built any. As people then say to me that they want a cue, but thinner than I usually make. They say they don't care for my normal fat cues. See what happened. People thought I built all my cues like the odd one that got traded around so much.

Just play with whatever you feel gives you the most advantages. You have already realized there is a trade off between thick and thin. Only you can decide which provides you the best advantages to help your game.
 
From my experience, it really comes down to weigh distribution and balance that you can achieve regardless if the handle is thicker or thinner. Both cues will play good and can move the ball as easily if not the same if you achieve the ideal balance that's work for you. My bender is at 1.22 and my SW is at 1.25 and my own custom range from 1.22 to 1.30. The SW at 1.24 or 1.25 that I have move the ball as good if not better than the bender 1.22. The hit really is mostly made up of the quality of shaft, weight, ferrule and Tip.

I can say that the butt size really don't have much of an effect (maybe a tiny butt when extreme) but really the main effect is solely based on distribution of the weight. The handle size is really just a preference...and you should be able to tweet it to play like any other cues via different wood selection or changing balance via weight system. You can have a 1.18 size butt weight 16oz versus an oversize butt weight in at 13oz...depending on the type of wood you use.

BR,
Duc.
 
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I agree with Desi , most I do now are 1.22 to 1.23 , some even smaller 1.20 . I like the 1.22 feels good hits well , Jim
 
Jon Spitz said:
I would not....For these reasons. My cues play the way they do because of the construction, tapers, wood selection, and so on. If you start changing that, all the trial and error to get that certain feel goes away. In addition to all that if the cue changes hands the public will judge you on a cue that is not your usual taper etc....Just my 2 cents...
Click to expand...

Tap! Truer words could not be spoken!!!
 
I would have to agree 100% with Hightower and Spitz. People judge you based on one cue at a time and those oddball cues come back to haunt you. Remember, it's your reputation on the line and just because someone is willing to pay you to do something, that does not make it right. Never put money above your sound business principals. There are plenty of guys out there that will build just about anything a player or headcase wants; let them be the proud builders.
 
Joe Barringer said:
I would have to agree 100% with Hightower and Spitz. People judge you based on one cue at a time and those oddball cues come back to haunt you. Remember, it's your reputation on the line and just because someone is willing to pay you to do something, that does not make it right. Never put money above your sound business principals. There are plenty of guys out there that will build just about anything a player or headcase wants; let them be the proud builders.
Click to expand...

I'm in agreement with Joe, Hightower and John. If anything odd ball leaves your shop or even the slightest defect, it will come back to bite you. Very early on, like cue # 5 I think, I built a solid yellow heart butt, slim, with a g-10 pin. That cue suddenly became " my style" and its as if no one believed I built anything different ! Lesson learned, I will tweak something a little but nothing drastic, its not worth it in the long run. My 2 cents.
 
thanks everyone for their feedback
:thumbup:
i understand and honestly think i would do the same as the builders who dont want a non typical cue of theirs out their
that being said we are talking about CUSTOM CUES
i play tennis and have custom racquets
my hand finds a grip size slightly smaller than the standard 4and 3/8 inch
most comfortable
vantage inrternational now zeus was able to make racquets for me of the size that felt good in my hands
isnt it possible that one size doesnt fit all?
a respected cuemaker said to me that he believes a slimmer cue moves the ball better
your thoughts on this??
 
bbb said:
thanks everyone for their feedback
:thumbup:
i understand and honestly think i would do the same as the builders who dont want a non typical cue of theirs out their
that being said we are talking about CUSTOM CUES
i play tennis and have custom racquets
my hand finds a grip size slightly smaller than the standard 4and 3/8 inch
most comfortable
vantage inrternational now zeus was able to make racquets for me of the size that felt good in my hands
isnt it possible that one size doesnt fit all?
a respected cuemaker said to me that he believes a slimmer cue moves the ball better
your thoughts on this??
Click to expand...

More quiver in the butt means more cue ball action, but less accuracy. So even though what you heard is true, it is still a trade off.
 
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