I've previously had a cue with a G10 pin and recently got another with the same type of pin.My Question is that when I tighten the cue and really snug it up I feel the shaft turn back a little bit all by itself.The cue is still tight but the G10 pin is the only pin that this has ever happened with on 2 different cues.Just wondering if anybody has experienced this with a G10 pin and why?Thanks for any possible answers given.
Can anyone answer this Question!
- Thread starter scsuxci
- Start date
There's nothing magical about G10 that would cause it to happen. I agree with Vasilios: You got too much pin for the shaft hole. (Wish I had that problem!) Have a cue guy drill and tap your shaft hole just a tiny bit deeper.
I find it very odd.I had a Gracio cue do it but not with his shafts but a Predator shaft.My thought was that the grooves in the shaft are alot larger than the joint screw,so when put together ,there might be more play and less snug until its totally together and trying to snug it up just makes it
rebound back to its proper fitted alignment.
I'm probably in lalaland but its seems to be the only pin that does this.
You're definitely over-thinking it. To quote myself: "There's nothing magical about G10 that would cause it to happen."
Not all cue makers and/or shaft makers set their pins and/or shaft holes exactly the same depth. So, it makes all the sense in the world that brand X shaft doesn't fit onto brand Y cue with a G10 pin. If G10 was the culprit, EVERY shaft would back off every cue with a G10 pin.
Try this little experiment: Put a washer down over the G10 pin and screw the shaft onto it. Does it still back off? If it does, then you have shaft elves living at the bottom of the shaft hole. The little bastards are pushing back against the G10 pin cuz they're allergic to fiberglass! Unscrew the shaft from the cue, hold the tip end with both hands, and swing it like a baseball bat. That should get rid of the shaft elves. Whatever you do, *DO NOT* shine a light down the hole! You'll only piss them off. If there's one thing you don't want, it's pissed off shaft elves.
Good luck!
Not all cue makers and/or shaft makers set their pins and/or shaft holes exactly the same depth. So, it makes all the sense in the world that brand X shaft doesn't fit onto brand Y cue with a G10 pin. If G10 was the culprit, EVERY shaft would back off every cue with a G10 pin.
Try this little experiment: Put a washer down over the G10 pin and screw the shaft onto it. Does it still back off? If it does, then you have shaft elves living at the bottom of the shaft hole. The little bastards are pushing back against the G10 pin cuz they're allergic to fiberglass! Unscrew the shaft from the cue, hold the tip end with both hands, and swing it like a baseball bat. That should get rid of the shaft elves. Whatever you do, *DO NOT* shine a light down the hole! You'll only piss them off. If there's one thing you don't want, it's pissed off shaft elves.
Good luck!
never mind.
Slightly larger 3/8 10 according to SG.
Slightly larger 3/8 10 according to SG.
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My above "too much pin for the shaft hole" answer it based solely on your stated fact that the shaft instantly turns back a little bit after snugging the cue together.
If you notice your shaft has loosened up a little bit after playing for a while, then it's a different problem. The raw G10 threads are quite abrasive. Over time, they can wear down the wooden threads inside your shaft. This will cause a wobbly union of the shaft and cue, and can result in the shaft loosening up while playing with it.
Once the threads have been worn down, there are a couple different fixes, but the only fix I think is appropriate is plugging the shaft hole, and boring and tapping new threads.
In order to prevent the wooden threads from being worn out in the first place, a light coat of thin CA can be applied to the raw G10 threads to seal them. Please note that I have never personally done this. I've only read about it here in other threads.
I have installed a couple G10 pins; one in a personal cue I used to play with for years. I never experienced the shaft backing off after snugging the cue together. I definitely experienced the worn out wooden threads and wish I knew the thin CA trick at the time.
If you notice your shaft has loosened up a little bit after playing for a while, then it's a different problem. The raw G10 threads are quite abrasive. Over time, they can wear down the wooden threads inside your shaft. This will cause a wobbly union of the shaft and cue, and can result in the shaft loosening up while playing with it.
Once the threads have been worn down, there are a couple different fixes, but the only fix I think is appropriate is plugging the shaft hole, and boring and tapping new threads.
In order to prevent the wooden threads from being worn out in the first place, a light coat of thin CA can be applied to the raw G10 threads to seal them. Please note that I have never personally done this. I've only read about it here in other threads.
I have installed a couple G10 pins; one in a personal cue I used to play with for years. I never experienced the shaft backing off after snugging the cue together. I definitely experienced the worn out wooden threads and wish I knew the thin CA trick at the time.
Jeff
Paste wax is where it is at when messing with g-10 as a pin.it seals it and knocks out the dry crispness of the g-10.wax a fresh pin and hole before first assembly.otherwise g-10 will grind anything to death.
bill
I had the exact same issue with both cues I built with G10 pins. I could tighten the shaft & it would slightly rebound when I let go, making me feel as if it could never really be completely tight, or that if I tried I would break it. Whether that's the case or not, I didn't like the apparent flex that the pin exhibited and I never tried G10 again. My pins were not bottoming out. Not sure what the issue was but it's something I have never experienced with metal pins.
From your post I'll assume the threads are snug from start to end. G-10 pins are slightly larger then most metal 3/8x10 pins have more elasticity so YES you are feeling the flex in the pin. Shaft threads for a G10 pin need special attention or a slightly larger tap. I would not use the cue until resolved.
Small chance you can wax the threads for a short term fix. The moisture from the wax might expand the wood and make the problem worse but that won't hurt anything. The threads need to be re-tapped and expanding the wood first helps.
Small chance you can wax the threads for a short term fix. The moisture from the wax might expand the wood and make the problem worse but that won't hurt anything. The threads need to be re-tapped and expanding the wood first helps.
Actually,when the shaft is put on its not snug at all.Its very easy to screw on with no resistance.I felt like asking the question may sound dumb but its just odd to me or I'm just odd:smile:Thanks for your answer Scott
Ok, maybe I'm wrong about G10. Maybe there is something to the material that would cause the shaft to back off after snugging. I didn't mean to sound like a G10 expert. Now I'm really curious and I'd like to hear more.
As I said before, I've only used a couple G10 pins and never experienced the problem. I know half a dozen guys with G10 pins, and never heard them complain about the problem. So... I was just going with the "easiest answer is usually correct" theory and surmising that the pin was bottoming out.
Anybody else experiencing this problem?
Anybody else have a theory why this happens?
Why don't all G10 pins do this?
Just curious.
As I said before, I've only used a couple G10 pins and never experienced the problem. I know half a dozen guys with G10 pins, and never heard them complain about the problem. So... I was just going with the "easiest answer is usually correct" theory and surmising that the pin was bottoming out.
Anybody else experiencing this problem?
Anybody else have a theory why this happens?
Why don't all G10 pins do this?
Just curious.
scsuxci: Did you try the washer experiment I suggested? (Yeah, I was being a smart-aleck, sorry.) But seriously, the washer experiment could tell two things: (1) whether or not the pin is bottoming out, and (2) whether or not there's something weird with the facing of the shaft and the cue. I highly doubt there's anything to #2, but you gotta check everything if you're gonna fix something, right?
If it gets tight at the very end the threads need to be deeper. If it gradually gets tighter as it's threaded they need to be reamed. Either way it needs to be fixed before using.
If it's tight enough to torsion the pin I don't recommend muscles as the solution. In my experience wrenching it down feels like something will break.
If it's tight enough to torsion the pin I don't recommend muscles as the solution. In my experience wrenching it down feels like something will break.
This one is a G10 radial.Maybe there's no fixing anything,maybe thats just the way they are?
That's it. The radials just will not lock, shoot a few shots and retighten shaft. The 3/8x10 or 3/8x11 will lock, I believe it has to do with the slow radius of the radial and the flex of the G10.