I have a predator sneaky pete that I use but its years of mistreated weather conditions (left in cold places, I am in michigan)...can I strip the clear coat and get a do over as you might say? And if so what clear coat should I use ?
can I strip the clear coat and clear coat it again ?
- Thread starter oldschool2791
- Start date
Pretty tough to do it yourself but not entirely impossible. You can either sand or use a glue friendly furniture stripper. I would tend to be careful if the Pred has any veneers, which I figure the sneaky does.
You would have better luck with using a water based poly for a finish. Many cue makers also use a under coat of Epoxy before the final finish. That would be almost impossible for you to do without a lathe.
I use a water based poly that is used for hard wood floors so is pretty tough.
Keep in mind that you will never get a nice finish build on it like the original Pred finish.
There are several cue makers and repairmen that will make it worth your while to send it to them in regards to cost. Its actually at the point of being so inexpensive for a decent refinish that you wouldn't want to put yourself thru the grief of doing it yourself.
Ryan at Muellars is one of the best and you will receive a cue back that will make you think that it was just taken off the rack.
One option that can look very nice is to take the old finish off and do a hand rub oil finish. Thats easy enuff to do by hand.
You would have better luck with using a water based poly for a finish. Many cue makers also use a under coat of Epoxy before the final finish. That would be almost impossible for you to do without a lathe.
I use a water based poly that is used for hard wood floors so is pretty tough.
Keep in mind that you will never get a nice finish build on it like the original Pred finish.
There are several cue makers and repairmen that will make it worth your while to send it to them in regards to cost. Its actually at the point of being so inexpensive for a decent refinish that you wouldn't want to put yourself thru the grief of doing it yourself.
Ryan at Muellars is one of the best and you will receive a cue back that will make you think that it was just taken off the rack.
One option that can look very nice is to take the old finish off and do a hand rub oil finish. Thats easy enuff to do by hand.
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Send it to Ryan Theewen at Muellers. A refinish isn't too expensive if you choose to keep the cue.
Otherwise, just sand it by hand and use some Krylon... You'll do fine
I recommend Deltron or Dupont .
They're about $300 a quart.
A nice Sata gun will cost around $200. A nice air dryer would be around $100-300.
A nice booth will be around $500-2000.
Some compound and polisher should run around $300.
They're about $300 a quart.
A nice Sata gun will cost around $200. A nice air dryer would be around $100-300.
A nice booth will be around $500-2000.
Some compound and polisher should run around $300.
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Maybe !
I am going to guess from your question that you
do not have much experience at finish coating things.
My response is yes you can, but I don't believe you
would be happy with the result. If you want it to look
like it did originally then have someone who knows
what they are doing refinish it. If it isn't a cue maker
doing it then be very careful of what it is refinished
with. There are lots of finishes that will not work very
well and only a few that do.
Good Luck with whatever you decide.
Joe
I am going to guess from your question that you
do not have much experience at finish coating things.
My response is yes you can, but I don't believe you
would be happy with the result. If you want it to look
like it did originally then have someone who knows
what they are doing refinish it. If it isn't a cue maker
doing it then be very careful of what it is refinished
with. There are lots of finishes that will not work very
well and only a few that do.
Good Luck with whatever you decide.
Joe
KJ Cues is also a good guy to send it to. He does Predator repair and custom work as well......
What kind of oil in this instance are we talking about?
Yes
The only problem I see is the joint area.
The cue needs to be finished with the cue put together without the finish getting between the joint or getting on the pin.........
The easy way would take it to a auto body shop and have them shoot it with a automotive finish like Emron. which is illegal in California.
You can do your own CA finish, or super glue finish but don't breath the fumes because its is known to kill people.
Learning how to do a CA finish is on a learning curve, and if you haven't used CA as a finish before your chances of getting it right the first time is slim to none.
You can use a number of different finishes.
Do you have a lathe or buffer system. Like a large bench grinder with buffer wheels and some buffing compounds.
No offence but it might be cheaper to just send the cue to a cue maker or repairman to be refinished.
I suggest you have this thread move to ask the cuemaker section.
And post what city you live in, maybe some one close to you can do it for you.
The only problem I see is the joint area.
The cue needs to be finished with the cue put together without the finish getting between the joint or getting on the pin.........
The easy way would take it to a auto body shop and have them shoot it with a automotive finish like Emron. which is illegal in California.
You can do your own CA finish, or super glue finish but don't breath the fumes because its is known to kill people.
Learning how to do a CA finish is on a learning curve, and if you haven't used CA as a finish before your chances of getting it right the first time is slim to none.
You can use a number of different finishes.
Do you have a lathe or buffer system. Like a large bench grinder with buffer wheels and some buffing compounds.
No offence but it might be cheaper to just send the cue to a cue maker or repairman to be refinished.
I suggest you have this thread move to ask the cuemaker section.
And post what city you live in, maybe some one close to you can do it for you.
I use a Canadian made product called Dr. WoodWell's Wood Elixir.
Google it and have a look.
Thanks for the suggestions guys , sounds like I'd be out of my depth to take this on.....i'm just trying to revive my stick before the new stick bug catches me. I might see what one of the cue repair guys price would be.
If you PMed Ryan, Rat Cues on AZ, I think you might be shocked at how reasonable it is.
He mainly hangs out in the Cue Makers Forum so he is easy to track down most days.
He mainly hangs out in the Cue Makers Forum so he is easy to track down most days.
Thanks , i'll definitely look him up
Don't forget a lathe to mount the handle on to polish it out.
Nah, thats all you need is a drill and a piece of 2x4 with a hole in it for a steady rest. Or a friend to hold the other end while you're turning it.
That little Joseph is quite the character isn't he. You have to be careful not to let him get away on you most days.
I would NOT suggest doing this on your own...
Even sanding the existing finish off can end up with a ruined cue.
You can easily sand it unevenly and end up with a cue that is no longer uniform and straight.
This is especially true if it has a steel collar at the joint.
There is a tendency to over sand near the joint without wanting to hit the stainless sleeve.
Pay the 80-150 that a good reputable cue repair guy or cue maker would charge to have it refinished if you want it refinished.
Jaden
Even sanding the existing finish off can end up with a ruined cue.
You can easily sand it unevenly and end up with a cue that is no longer uniform and straight.
This is especially true if it has a steel collar at the joint.
There is a tendency to over sand near the joint without wanting to hit the stainless sleeve.
Pay the 80-150 that a good reputable cue repair guy or cue maker would charge to have it refinished if you want it refinished.
Jaden