Case vs. Joint Protector

chin0

chin0

"Chino Miss-A-Lot"
Silver Member
I have a delimma on my hands right now, which was a consequence of my own stupidity. I wanted to see what you guys would do if you were in my position.

So I ordered my first case online. A 3x6 case from ebay, received it today and was a nice case. It is a square type hard case, so the top has a mold in it as well. So I transfered all of my cues over (With joint protectors) and the case wouldn't shut. That's when I knew, "Hey, you just rammed a big honcho in your own a$$ by not measuring you butts and shafts with the protector on there." So these are the two options I have right now unloess someone has something better.

1. I remove the joint protectors and the case shuts fine with top/lid mold-piece in the case.

2. I take out the molded piece on the top/lid and I can keep my joint protectors on the cue, but the top is now just soft leather with a piece of foam as padding.

What should I do? I don't know which one gives my cue more protection. Please help. Thanks in advance.

Happy shooting! :smile:

Chino
 
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It's the butt that causes the problem, right? I say this because in all likelihood the shaft with jp will not be longer than the butt without jp, due to the length of the pin. My suggestion is to get some cheap jp's, and cut off enough of the butt cap so the the pin will just barely protrude through the cut end. You'll then have a butt cap that adds no length but still protects the pin and joint collar. You should then be able to fit both pieces into your case without removing the molded lid.
 
I have some cues that don't fit with the molded part either, even without the jps, so I took out the molded part and put some socks in there instead.
 
That is what my thought was as well. The foaming has to stay in the lid to help keep temperature and humidity out for longer time but you need the jps as well to protect the collars. I guess that some cheap-o jps will do the trick as well.

I would not have thought though that there is anyone creating cases that aren't big enough to store cues with jps on.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
 
Others will disagree, but I think joint protectors are more for decoration than protection. Ray Schuler, who made my cue, made joint protectors because customers wanted them, not because he thought they were necessary. He may have felt this way because he was proud of his indestructible joint.

I have to use my Justis case without joint protectors because the shafts are short and go deep into the sleeves. With joint protectors I can't get a grip to pull them out. I can't get a grip without joint protectors either, but at least I can screw in the butt and then lift them out. Doesn't worry me.
 
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I don't use JP's. To me they are too much trouble. Juggling the butt, shaft and JP's I usually end up dropping them and cause damage to the cue trying to catch them.

I am now using a Hager case that has a Chinese handcuff type material that secures the cue and shaft so basically I don't need them.
 
Here is a picture of the molded piece I was talking about, that way I can clarify things:
IMG000036.jpg


It's not a special expensive case, it is a Nielsen case ( http://cgi.ebay.com/HARD-CASE-3x6-b...ptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116 )

I kept the joint protectors on there for now and removed the molded top part, unitil I get these JP shorten, I'll just keep the mold out of it.
 
Get in contact with the seller, he might take the case back in trade for a case that will fit your cues.

chin0 said:
I have a delimma on my hands right now, which was a consequence of my own stupidity. I wanted to see what you guys would do if you were in my position.

So I ordered my first case online. A 3x6 case from ebay, received it today and was a nice case. It is a square type hard case, so the top has a mold in it as well. So I transfered all of my cues over (With joint protectors) and the case wouldn't shut. That's when I knew, "Hey, you just rammed a big honcho in your own a$$ by not measuring you butts and shafts with the protector on there." So these are the two options I have right now unloess someone has something better.

1. I remove the joint protectors and the case shuts fine with top/lid mold-piece in the case.

2. I take out the molded piece on the top/lid and I can keep my joint protectors on the cue, but the top is now just soft leather with a piece of foam as padding.

What should I do? I don't know which one gives my cue more protection. Please help. Thanks in advance.

Happy shooting! :smile:

Chino
Click to expand...
 
chin0 said:
1. I remove the joint protectors and the case shuts fine with top/lid mold-piece in the case.

2. I take out the molded piece on the top/lid and I can keep my joint protectors on the cue, but the top is now just soft leather with a piece of foam as padding.

What should I do? I don't know which one gives my cue more protection. Please help. Thanks in advance.

Chino
Click to expand...

Hi Chino,

I think have the same cue case. Mine is called Excalibur, but your ebay link calls it X-Caliber. Maybe it is a different brand.
I don't have a problem putting my cues in with joint protectors. They accommodate 31 inches, which a standard cue will fit in. Do you have long cues? I have 58" cues with long (radial) pins, and I don't have a problem.

You could return the case you just bought with a refund, less the shipping cost.......according to that ebay link in your post.
 
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Option #3. Sell the case and buy one long enough to store the cues w/the jp's on.
 
I have standard cues, 57 inches to 58 inches long, I contacted the seller and am waiting his reply. Thank you for all the help, I appreciate it.

Happy shooting! :)
Chino
 
chin0 said:
I have a delimma on my hands right now, which was a consequence of my own stupidity. I wanted to see what you guys would do if you were in my position.

So I ordered my first case online. A 3x6 case from ebay, received it today and was a nice case. It is a square type hard case, so the top has a mold in it as well. So I transfered all of my cues over (With joint protectors) and the case wouldn't shut. That's when I knew, "Hey, you just rammed a big honcho in your own a$$ by not measuring you butts and shafts with the protector on there." So these are the two options I have right now unloess someone has something better.

1. I remove the joint protectors and the case shuts fine with top/lid mold-piece in the case.

2. I take out the molded piece on the top/lid and I can keep my joint protectors on the cue, but the top is now just soft leather with a piece of foam as padding.

What should I do? I don't know which one gives my cue more protection. Please help. Thanks in advance.

Happy shooting! :smile:

Chino
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what size are your cues? i think it's bs. you should just sell that case on here and buy yourself an instroke. when it comes to protection you'd be hard pressed to find a better case than an instoke.

premier are their cheapest case but still offer equal protection
 
The new Sterling Cases will all fit up to 32"

I purposely make the top of the case an open space surrounded by tubing to insure that the lid can easily close over protruding parts.

Nielsen's Billiards is a Sterling Dealer. Ask them to exchange this case for the NEW Sterling 3x6, specify that you want the NEW MODEL and I guarantee that you will be FAR FAR happier with it.
 
The Instroke cases are a bit out of my price range, that's why I purchased this case. $50 for a 3x6 case is kind of hard to fin, but I guess that's what I get for being a cheap a$$.

Being a college student, it's kind of hard to dip in the cookie jar for a cue case. Guess I better start saving up haha. Thanks for the advice. I will see what the seller tells me about the case, if they are willing to exchange it for a new 3x6 sterling case, I'll just pay the difference. How much would that 3x6 sterling case run me? Thanks

Chino
 
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I took the molded hard foam insert out of most of my cases and went to WallyWorld (cloth department) and bought some soft foam rubber (about 1" thickness), cut it to shape with scissors and fit it right into my lids. The soft foam rubber gives enough to form around the joint protectors on the cues in that particular case and keeps them from sliding up and down if the case is jostled.
IMO, joint protectors are a bit overrated, but I've got them on most of my cues.

Maniac
 
chin0 said:
The Instroke cases are a bit out of my price range, that's why I purchased this case. $50 for a 3x6 case is kind of hard to fin, but I guess that's what I get for being a cheap a$$.

Being a college student, it's kind of hard to dip in the cookie jar for a cue case. Guess I better start saving up haha. Thanks for the advice. I will see what the seller tells me about the case, if they are willing to exchange it for a new 3x6 sterling case, I'll just pay the difference. How much would that 3x6 sterling case run me? Thanks

Chino
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http://www.pooldawg.com/product/action-2-butt-4-shaft-soft-pool-cue-case

try one of these. and just be a little more gentle with the case while the cues are in it.


what's that they say. the sting of disappointment lasts longer than the thrill of a bargain

http://www.billiardwarehouse.com/cases/instroke/instroke_premier.htm

these instrokes are pretty good deals. might even be able to get a slightly better deal from one of the dealers on here
 
There was an auto response saying that he wouldn't be back until the 26th of Jan. and he wouldn't be able to read my message until than. I will wait until Monday and give him a call if he doesn't get a chance to reply to my email. I will ask him about the Sterling case and see how much it would cost me.

The instroke cases are very nice, I'll see what I can do and see if my refund check comes in these few weeks, if it does, I will see about the instroke case. Thanks for the links and the help everyone.

Chino
 
Schmelke?

chin0 said:
The Instroke cases are a bit out of my price range, that's why I purchased this case. $50 for a 3x6 case is kind of hard to fin, but I guess that's what I get for being a cheap a$$.

Being a college student, it's kind of hard to dip in the cookie jar for a cue case. Guess I better start saving up haha. Thanks for the advice. I will see what the seller tells me about the case, if they are willing to exchange it for a new 3x6 sterling case, I'll just pay the difference. How much would that 3x6 sterling case run me? Thank


Chino
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I am just wondering where you got the joint protectors for the Schmelke?
Does it have the Schmelke joint? Maybe that is the problem. Is it all your cues?
 
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