changing ob1 ferrule

dave sutton

Banned
has anyone done this? i want to change from laminated wood to ivory. does ob1 use a tenon on the shaft. from the looks of the website the laminated ferrule is slid on a tenon.

any input would be appreciated.

i know about voiding the warantee so on and so on....

ive done many predator shafts but this is my first ob1
 
Yes, the ferrule resides on a tenon.

Depending on the end result that you seek, you may not achieve your goal.
If you're looking for the 'hit' of ivory, it ain't gonna happen. Due to the OB's foam core, any 'hit' generated at the tip is nullified by the foam. You'll also be increasing the amount of QB deflection. Maybe not to an appreciable degree but the fact that ivory weighs more than wood should tell you that this is happening. No biggie, a player will adapt.

I've toyed with OB's for a while with no results to my satisfaction. I've installed LBM ferrule with Triangle tip and still can't feel the 'hit'.
It's the foam that's killing it. It's the combination of components of a shaft that mostly determine the 'hit'. This is one of the reasons that I'm not a big fan of OB shafts. It's like a golf club with no sweet-spot. In this case, a good analogy would be, it's like putting leather seats in a Volkswagan. No offense, just offering my opinion.
 
i think varney does something with changing out teh ferrules on ob-1s too, and was pretty happy with the results. I looked into at one time, mainly because i dont like the wood ferrule, i prefer white because it helps me zone in and aim i feel. In the end i left it alone, i pay all this money for a shaft with low deflection, last thing i want to do is do something that possibly negates it.
 
scottycoyote said:
i think varney does something with changing out teh ferrules on ob-1s too, and was pretty happy with the results.

Yes, Kevin has done this mod. I think there are some pictures posted in the forum somewhere.

<<Edit: Here's a link >>
 
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I don't think it'd be too hard to part that ferrule off, clean out the bored hole and epoxy at 5/16 wood tenon there.
But, it'll no longer be lightweight end.
 
That would be like putting a golf ball on an ultra lite fishing pole. hold it staring out and looks like a limp $ick
 
thanks for the inout guys. i have changed out maybe ferrules to ivory. i too dont like the wood look..

as far as weight and deflection. we are talking about a fraction of an ounce. if you can feel that and it changes the way the shaft plays for you then you are the best player on earth. you should not be making cues you should join the pro tour because youll prob never loose...lol

when i changed my pred the shaft weight was 4.2 oz at 12.65mm before and after the change. my scale couldnt pick up a change of weight so i doubt i can :D :D :D
 
Dave don't try to use what OB calls a tenon. Its a very soft, very porous, balsa type material that crumbles easily. You'll need to bore 5/16 & install your own tenon. I done quite a few and everyone likes the way that it wakes up the "hit" of the cue....not quite so "dead" feeling.
 
dave sutton said:
thanks for the inout guys. i have changed out maybe ferrules to ivory. i too dont like the wood look..

as far as weight and deflection. we are talking about a fraction of an ounce. if you can feel that and it changes the way the shaft plays for you then you are the best player on earth. you should not be making cues you should join the pro tour because youll prob never loose...lol

when i changed my pred the shaft weight was 4.2 oz at 12.65mm before and after the change. my scale couldnt pick up a change of weight so i doubt i can :D :D :D
You see that OB-1 taper?
It wasn't designed for a heavy ferrule.
 
dave sutton said:
thanks for the inout guys. i have changed out maybe ferrules to ivory. i too dont like the wood look..

as far as weight and deflection. we are talking about a fraction of an ounce. if you can feel that and it changes the way the shaft plays for you then you are the best player on earth. you should not be making cues you should join the pro tour because youll prob never loose...lol

when i changed my pred the shaft weight was 4.2 oz at 12.65mm before and after the change. my scale couldnt pick up a change of weight so i doubt i can :D :D :D

You need to use a scale with much higher resolution. If you are using a Postal scale it only goes down to 1/10 once or 2 grams. that's not nearly close enough to weigh a ferrule. It could weigh as much as 50% more and not change the reading. Mine goes down to a 1/1000 ounce and there is a difference. How much it affects the deflection amount? I have no idea but I do know that it affects it. Good ole Newton's Law one, two and three you know

Dick
 
Dave,

Obviously, I think you should keep it like it is, but there are a few things you should know about before you make your decision.

Low cue ball deflection, or Squirt, is created by the difference in mass between the tip end of the cue shaft and the cue ball. A very small change can have a significant impact on performance.

I have done the math, and changing to a conventional linen ferrule increases the tip end mass significantly. The lightest platics we tested,that would hold up as a ferrule, had a specific gravity of at least 1.2 to 1.3. Our maple, after the compression and glue saturation, is still under .8. Also, our core is very light as compared to a maple tenon. Your ivory ferrule is probably about 1.8 specific gravity, more than double that of our maple ferrule.

Anyway, I would be happy to talk to you about it if you have any questions, so please don't hesitate to call.

Royce Bunnell
www.obcues.com
877-399-9901
 
I would also point out that overall weight is not what you want to be looking at when you are talking about deflection. It's the weight of the last 6" of the tip end that you need to really focus on. With that in mind, the ferrule plays a larger role than you might think.

EDIT: Looks like you beat me to it, Royce! :D
 
there is definitely a large difference in squirt for very small amounts of mass. some research from dr. dave indicates that adding just 0.3g of weight at about 1.5" from the tip increased the squirt angle by about 3.5 degrees. the closer you get to the tip, the effect increases linearly and also decreases linearly as you move back. after about 6 inches, any extra mass has no effect. extrapolating that data would give about 4.5 degrees increase in squirt angle for just 0.3g of extra weight added right under the tip. so the ferrule area right under the tip has a large effect for even very small masses.
 
wow better input then i expected. nice guys. i know about squirt and all the factors involved. truth is no matted how accuarte a scale is were STILL talking about less then 1/10 of an ounce. i can handle that.

royce my prob is not with the play my prob is with the look. i need the white sry pal...
 
dave sutton said:
wow better input then i expected. nice guys. i know about squirt and all the factors involved. truth is no matted how accuarte a scale is were STILL talking about less then 1/10 of an ounce. i can handle that.

royce my prob is not with the play my prob is with the look. i need the white sry pal...
Krylon white!!!!:D
 
thanks for the inout guys. i have changed out maybe ferrules to ivory. i too dont like the wood look..

as far as weight and deflection. we are talking about a fraction of an ounce. if you can feel that and it changes the way the shaft plays for you then you are the best player on earth. you should not be making cues you should join the pro tour because youll prob never loose...lol

when i changed my pred the shaft weight was 4.2 oz at 12.65mm before and after the change. my scale couldnt pick up a change of weight so i doubt i can

looks like Royce and Sheldon beat me to it,but the lightest ferrule material i have found is almost double that of Maple and i am sure ivory is triple.being that the weight is right on the end would be the problem as Sheldon said.it would be magnified.deflection would definitely increase,and i think at a notice level.

i played with an OB-1 for awhile when they came out and found the hit sort of dead felling and removing the "carbon fiber" pad seemd to help.i am not recommending that as i am sure it voids the warranty,but it worked for me on my shaft.

i thought it was weird that the given the hardness of carbon fiber the hit actually got crisper when i removed it.
 
yes taking off the carbon fiber thing voids the warantee. i dont care about all that. i will cut that ferrule off and try to thread the current tenon. if that doesnt work i will bore a hole and cut the tenon out of ivory and slide it in like i do on predators.

ill let you know how it turns out
 
well i dont think i will be changing any ferrule on my new 2 piece ob1 shaft

thanks to ups... :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:

rtdg.jpg

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The question I keep asking myself is why would a cuemaker who can build shafts from scratch buy a $200+ after market shaft and start whacking on it? Why not sell it here and make what you want?
 
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