i made a thread about smooth shafts about a week ago but now im wondering about how to keep the shaft and ferrule from turning blue. im just real concerned about this because my old joss shaft looks like shit and feels like shit because i didnt take care of it, i just got a new joss and am going to be a clean freak about it. i heard i should clean it with rubbing alcohol, how often? should i use the alcohol on both the shaft and ferrule? shud i make sure it doesnt touch the tip? how often, should it be cleaned after every use? thanks
clean shaft and ferrule
- Thread starter Varsity2016
- Start date
King Cueball
Registered
Ive always cleaned My shaft with Comet! you know the stuff you use in the sink? feels like glass when i get done wiping it down! also for the ferrel try toothpaste! yes toothpaste! will get out those chalk marks in a jiffy!
What I do while shooting is to periodically go wash my hands... dry them with a somewhat small piece of paper towel (maybe 8-9 inches long out of the dispenser), which becomes damp after doing so. The I take the damp towel with me back to the table and wipe down my shaft with it.
Also, I periodically re-burnish my shafts to help seal the grain, thereby inhibiting the accumualtion of dirt/grit. I burnish with a small piece of tanned cowhide that I bought from a local tanner for only $1.50. It works quite well.
Also, I periodically re-burnish my shafts to help seal the grain, thereby inhibiting the accumualtion of dirt/grit. I burnish with a small piece of tanned cowhide that I bought from a local tanner for only $1.50. It works quite well.
i used a pool cue wax for years .then about a year ago i started using a product made by KIWI it's called WET PRUF for shoes.looks the same as the pool wax.you can purchase it at WalMart in the shoe dept.by the shoe shine stuff.i put a light coat on the whole cue (except of course the wrap and tip)every time after i play.let it dry about 5 mins.then buff it with a soft cotton cloth.just remember to put a very thin coat on every time..also the way i have always chalked the tip helps.i scratch the chalk onto the tip not grinding the chalk onto it..my cues look like i don't use them.the ferrules are just as white as new.hope this helps.Varsity2016 said:
King Cueball said:Ive always cleaned My shaft with Comet! you know the stuff you use in the sink? feels like glass when i get done wiping it down! also for the ferrel try toothpaste! yes toothpaste! will get out those chalk marks in a jiffy!
The toothbrush bristles won't scratch the ferrule this way? How the hell do you get the shaft smooth again from using comet!? You don't use water also do you?
cuejoey said:
I'm a neat freak about my shafts (wish I wasn't sometimes!!) and this is really one of the best things to do. When you chalk, don't rub the sides of the chalk on the ferrule. When I piece of chalk gets about half way down and starts lookin' like a crater, either cut it in half or throw it away.
Also, washing your hands and wiping down with a damp cloth after play helps keep things clean.
Bustah360 said:
No, it won't scatch... not even the soft ferrules like ABS on Predator 314s.
Re using Comet... I've done that as well. Problem is, your shaft will wear down quite fast if you use it regularly. It's quite abrasive... but it sure cleans. After using it, allow to dry and then burnish with a small leather pad to smooth the shaft.
I have this thing that's used for cleaning the tracks on my model railroad that looks sort of like a grey erasure. it has a very fine abrasive in it and it's perfect for cleaning my ferrals. A damp cloth is all I use for the shaft.
> When using toothpaste,don't use a toothbrush! Instead,rub a little dab on the corner of a rag,and use it that way for cleaning a ferrule,but don't use any of the colored toothpastes on it,the dye will cause even worse stains. Try Pearl Drops,it looks kinda white like Comet. I've actually seen Jimmy Wetch use a damp Scotch-Brite sponge and Comet to clean his shafts. The trick to that is not using any more water than absolutely neccessary. A better method if you don't have a lathe is the Magic Eraser,just barely wet,and scrub length-wise,and turn often. Dry with a soft sloth,sanding should be done with the finest grit that will get the grain to lay back down with,in my experience using the Eraser by hand 600-800 should get it back smooth. This method also takes out light dents. Another thing you should know is to completely avoid any colored rags for cleaning. If it's not a pale yellow or solid white the dye in the cloth can come out when moisture is added,just like the way a red t-shirt stains a whole load of clothes in a washing machine. You can buy a square yard of either white t-shirt or sweatshirt material at most Wal-Marts for about 4.00,then cut it up as you need it. Tommy D.
Richard Black recommends lighter fluid... apply to a rag and wipe the shaft down, then buff it with leather until it gets quite hot (to seal the shaft) It works well. I try to stay away from anything that is abrasive. Period. I saw a guy at college use one of those green dish scrubbers almost every day and his shaft looked like a pencil after a while.
Regarding other cue maintenance: Richard Black also recommends baby oil treatments for any ivory parts. For buttcaps, take the bumper off and wipe a little oil on the inside and wipe it off right away. I do the same for my ferrules and joint.
Plus: your shafts are going to get dirty... keep the ferrules and tips clean, but only wipe the shaft down... no sanding... don't worry when it doesn't look spotless... if it matters that much... then buy a Cuetech or graphite shaft.
Regarding other cue maintenance: Richard Black also recommends baby oil treatments for any ivory parts. For buttcaps, take the bumper off and wipe a little oil on the inside and wipe it off right away. I do the same for my ferrules and joint.
Plus: your shafts are going to get dirty... keep the ferrules and tips clean, but only wipe the shaft down... no sanding... don't worry when it doesn't look spotless... if it matters that much... then buy a Cuetech or graphite shaft.
Last edited:
King Cueball
Registered
You dont use any water with the comet, simply take a papertowel pour a little on and simply wipe it down. the toothpaste you dont use water either same thing put some on a papertowel and rub out the chalk marks, cue will look brand new!
Secaucus Fats
Banned
If you have a really filthy shaft and ferrule here's how to get it looking like new:
Here's what you'll need:
1.) A Mr. Clean Magic Eraser sponge
2.) A couple of terrycloth washtowels.
3.) Soft-Scrub (w/bleach) or Ajax / Comet scouring powder.
4.) A leather burnishing pad for cue shafts (easily available from Mueller, Seybert's etc..).
5.) Paper towels.
Here's how you clean it:
1.) Dip the Magic Eraser in some warm water and squeeze the excess water out. Wipe down the entire shaft and ferrule with the Magic Eraser. Rinse the Magic Eraser and repeat the process. Wipe the entire shaft with paper towels using a brisk burnishing motion until the shaft is dry and all residue from the Magic Eraser is gone.
2.) Dip a terrycloth washcloth in warm water and squeeze it until it is damp (not sopping wet). Place a little Soft Scrub or scouring powder on the cloth and use it to clean the entire shaft and ferrule. Rinse the washcloth well, squueze the excess water out until it's damp and wipe the shaft again to remove any remaining residue from the cleaning agent. Wipe once more with paper towels until the shaft is dry, smooth and burnished by the paper towel.
3.) Finish the shaft off by burnishing it with the leather shaft slicker using a good and brisk burnishing motion. (You should feel the shaft and the pad getting quite hot.) Do this until you have imparted a smooth glass like finish to the shaft.
To keep the shaft clean and smooth always wipe the chalk off the tip with a piece of paper towel or cloth, then wipe down the entire cue using a clean dry terrycloth towel or microfiber cloth. Make this a habit and do it every time before you put your cue(s) away in your case.
Buy the Slip Stic cleaner and shaft conditioner combo, use it as per the directions on the label. I use the Slip Stic cleaner before I go out to play and apply the conditioner once a month. If you use the Slip Stic products you will never have a filthy shaft again nor will you need to use the deep cleaning procedure I detailed above.
Here's what you'll need:
1.) A Mr. Clean Magic Eraser sponge
2.) A couple of terrycloth washtowels.
3.) Soft-Scrub (w/bleach) or Ajax / Comet scouring powder.
4.) A leather burnishing pad for cue shafts (easily available from Mueller, Seybert's etc..).
5.) Paper towels.
Here's how you clean it:
1.) Dip the Magic Eraser in some warm water and squeeze the excess water out. Wipe down the entire shaft and ferrule with the Magic Eraser. Rinse the Magic Eraser and repeat the process. Wipe the entire shaft with paper towels using a brisk burnishing motion until the shaft is dry and all residue from the Magic Eraser is gone.
2.) Dip a terrycloth washcloth in warm water and squeeze it until it is damp (not sopping wet). Place a little Soft Scrub or scouring powder on the cloth and use it to clean the entire shaft and ferrule. Rinse the washcloth well, squueze the excess water out until it's damp and wipe the shaft again to remove any remaining residue from the cleaning agent. Wipe once more with paper towels until the shaft is dry, smooth and burnished by the paper towel.
3.) Finish the shaft off by burnishing it with the leather shaft slicker using a good and brisk burnishing motion. (You should feel the shaft and the pad getting quite hot.) Do this until you have imparted a smooth glass like finish to the shaft.
To keep the shaft clean and smooth always wipe the chalk off the tip with a piece of paper towel or cloth, then wipe down the entire cue using a clean dry terrycloth towel or microfiber cloth. Make this a habit and do it every time before you put your cue(s) away in your case.
Buy the Slip Stic cleaner and shaft conditioner combo, use it as per the directions on the label. I use the Slip Stic cleaner before I go out to play and apply the conditioner once a month. If you use the Slip Stic products you will never have a filthy shaft again nor will you need to use the deep cleaning procedure I detailed above.
OldHasBeen
Tom Ferry
This thread is starting to remind me of 1970.
Back then, if you wanted anything done correctly to your stick, you would learn it from a person who knew what they were doing. I learned from fellow (AL) in Detroit. There was 1,000 methods and opinions. All of them took quite a bit of time and effort. I used to spend hours (on the road) taking care of my cue.
But this is 2006 - The proven solution is - www.slip-stic.com
Get the conditioner/cleaner & the treatment solution and fugetaboudit!
I've never used a product that works as well as this. Even in high humidity.
TY & GL, OHB
Back then, if you wanted anything done correctly to your stick, you would learn it from a person who knew what they were doing. I learned from fellow (AL) in Detroit. There was 1,000 methods and opinions. All of them took quite a bit of time and effort. I used to spend hours (on the road) taking care of my cue.
But this is 2006 - The proven solution is - www.slip-stic.com
Get the conditioner/cleaner & the treatment solution and fugetaboudit!
I've never used a product that works as well as this. Even in high humidity.
TY & GL, OHB
BillYards said:
Yes, Mon! I say wipe w/ the paper towel you dry your hands with, coz you DO wash after playing, yes? Let the blue take. I don't seee how people can shoot with a clean shaft- need sunglasses!
Wanna get rid of the blue on your shafts forever? Use brown chalk.
Clean your tip off before putting the shaft in your case. Wipe your cue down with a damp cloth. Hold your cue at a angle when applying chalk so the excess doesn't fall onto the shaft. Use a tan chalk instead of blue. I do all of these my shafts look fairly new. Using the tan chalk may get some remarks about streaks on the table but what difference does it make if it is blue or tan? One player even asked me how I could shoot without using chalk. The color made the tip look like there wasn't any on it.
Silly me, all this time ive been letting Mike Webb clean my pool cue shaft for me !!!!!!!!!! What im trying to say is i just have them cleaned professionally, that way there are no problems that usually cost more money in the long run......................