Cored forearm dowel size

Mr Hoppe

Mr Hoppe

Sawdust maker
Silver Member
I haven't done a cored forearm before, so I tried one the other day. I used the same .750 gun drill that we use for butt sleeves, but after finishing, it seemed to me that was a little big for this application. Clearly this size will work, and this is a subjective topic, but I thought I'd ask what size others are using. So what size drill are you using to core your forearms?
Thanks for the input.
Mr H
 
Core drill

Mr Hoppe said:
I haven't done a cored forearm before, so I tried one the other day. I used the same .750 gun drill that we use for butt sleeves, but after finishing, it seemed to me that was a little big for this application. Clearly this size will work, and this is a subjective topic, but I thought I'd ask what size others are using. So what size drill are you using to core your forearms?
Thanks for the input.
Mr H
Click to expand...


.758" drill, .750 core.
 
Mr Hoppe said:
I haven't done a cored forearm before, so I tried one the other day. I used the same .750 gun drill that we use for butt sleeves, but after finishing, it seemed to me that was a little big for this application. Clearly this size will work, and this is a subjective topic, but I thought I'd ask what size others are using. So what size drill are you using to core your forearms?
Thanks for the input.
Mr H
Click to expand...

I use a .750 drill and a .744 core. I bore both ends to .752 before I use the gun drill which keeps the ends from breaking out and makes the drill run more true.

*****For what it's worth*********
 
.650 and .758.
.650 with .642 dowel gets me allowance for 5/8 id rings and threading the tenon on top.
.758 allows for 3/4 ID rings at the A-jnt.


I have an .883 for the handle as well.
 
I use .680 and am considering using a .680 first then use a .750 about 3/4 of the way thru so that the shaft joint will be .680, and the "A" joint will be .750. Then use a core that will fit the two sizes. I have done the .750 all the way thru, but I don't feel there is enough meat left of the forearm wood at the shaft joint.
Dave
 
Dave38 said:
I use .680 and am considering using a .680 first then use a .750 about 3/4 of the way thru so that the shaft joint will be .680, and the "A" joint will be .750. Then use a core that will fit the two sizes. I have done the .750 all the way thru, but I don't feel there is enough meat left of the forearm wood at the shaft joint.
Dave
Click to expand...
Dave:

That is what I do at the A joint also. I core at .680 then I use a 3/4 bit at the A joint about 3" deep.
 
Dave38 said:
I use .680 and am considering using a .680 first then use a .750 about 3/4 of the way thru so that the shaft joint will be .680, and the "A" joint will be .750. Then use a core that will fit the two sizes. I have done the .750 all the way thru, but I don't feel there is enough meat left of the forearm wood at the shaft joint.
Dave
Click to expand...

I have it at .642 by 10" long, then .750 by 2.25 long at the bottom of the forearm, that 3/4 tenon extends down to the handle but I thread the bottom 2 inches.
I cnc taper the coring dowels. I wrote the cutting program to match the handle and forearm cores.
 
.758 gun drill. Core piece around .753 or .754
I'm sure 5/8" would be fine, but I prefer the core be bigger.
 
Mr Hoppe said:
I haven't done a cored forearm before, so I tried one the other day. I used the same .750 gun drill that we use for butt sleeves, but after finishing, it seemed to me that was a little big for this application. Clearly this size will work, and this is a subjective topic, but I thought I'd ask what size others are using. So what size drill are you using to core your forearms?
Thanks for the input.
Mr H
Click to expand...

I use .6875 for both.
 
I do all full length cores if I am making a cored cue and use a .750 on the handle area and either a .625 or .750 for the forearm depending on materials.

Bob Danielson
www.bdcuesandcomix.com
 
.755 gun drill. Core piece around .750

but I am considering other size because it is very bigger,

You know conic gun drills? I see this video in youtube, this artisan has conic gun drills for your flutes (instrument)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pGlRW9FkrsI&feature=related ( conic gun drill in min 4:05)

very interesting, I am thinking in drill forearm with conic drill, what you think?
 
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Looks like a big ream. That would probably work nicely, if you tapered from a little over 5/8 at the front to a little over 3/4" at the back.
Drill a 5/8" hole, then go in with the tapered reamer.....
 
Conic Taper Coring!!!

Hi,

Nice thought. :smile: I like your idea for fronts. The glue up procedure will be much better without any doubt of gaps due to the taper.

Rick Geschrey
 
scdiveteam said:
Hi,

Nice thought. :smile: I like your idea for fronts. The glue up procedure will be much better without any doubt of gaps due to the taper.
Click to expand...
Yeah, for sure. Liberal amounts of glue on both pieces, and then put a little pressure on the core til the glue sets up.... The only tricky part would be getting the taper just right on the core. CNC would be ideal there.
 
Sheldon said:
Yeah, for sure. Liberal amounts of glue on both pieces, and then put a little pressure on the core til the glue sets up.... The only tricky part would be getting the taper just right on the core. CNC would be ideal there.
Click to expand...

Depending on the size of a tapered core, I would be afraid of a little to much pressure installing the dowel and ending up with a split fore arm. Truthfully, I'm quite happy with a .750 straight dowel. As long as the centers in the core are true, the prong wood needs to be no thicker at it's thinnest part than what is needed so that it's not translucent.

Dick
 
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