cored or uncored???

[qbilder]

uncored.i understand some guys coring with laminated Maple or Purpleheart or something else very stable,but it seems that lots of cuemakers take a very stable wood such as some of the more common Rosewoods and core them with the less stable straigth grain Maple.

i know some guys say they core for weight,but it really isn't difficult to make an Ebony cue weight 19oz without coring,so i am not sure i undersatnd that argument either.

as for getting the same hit,i do think this has some merit,but not totally true either.

coring woods like burls and Olivewood and other unstable woods though is a necessity,imo.

now i am curious to what wood Wes cores his cues with?

I'll not say what wood he uses, but it's not a tough guess. Wes builds a great cue. I can tell you for sure it is nothing short of top grade if it's in his cues.

 

[JoeyInCali]

I'll not say what wood he uses, but it's not a tough guess. Wes builds a great cue. I can tell you for sure it is nothing short of top grade if it's in his cues.

Petrified desert ironwood!!!

 

[WheatCues]

Build two butts, one of solid ebony & one of solid maple. Make them both weigh 15oz. & give them one 4.0oz. shaft to share, having a 19" assembled balance point with either butt. Paint both butts solid blue, so nobody can visually see a difference. I'd bet any non-skilled idiot could hit balls with both combinations & give you an essay on the differences in feel & performance. So would a solid B player know the difference? Hell yes, in a heart beat. Does the butt matter more than 10%? Without any logical doubt.

Harmonics & tonal qualities aside, the raw performance of a cue is determined by flexual strength, linear strength and memory. Only half of the cue's overall strength & memory relies on the shaft. Aside from being the part of the cue that contacts the ball, the shaft is no more important than the butt. They serve different purposes but equally important purposes.

Very interesting point... however, due to the conical design of the cue, the energy transfer gradually diminishes as it travels up the cue and get's aborbed through the gradual diameter increase of the wood, so by the time it actually reaches your hand the initial energy is already exhausted and you get the recoil of the initial impact "feedback" ...

There are many ways to view this extremely interesting subject, so I'm sure we both could have quite a conversation regarding this matter... I personally would love to hear your views as well as sharing mine and see where it goes....

Please call me @ 321-631-1827 or I'll accept the charges just to hear more about your theory on this !!!


Sincerely, Eddie Wheat

 

[WheatCues]

Hmm, i'll have to try that. I have been clamping the two peices together butt to butt until glue dries. Never thought of screwing them together before.....could actually be on to something here.

You should consider wood threads... it reduces undesirable noise that can possible surface later in that joint that can be caused by metal pins....


Just a suggestion !




- Eddie Wheat

 

[WheatCues]

Why would the phenolic there dampen the vibration?
If he wanted to do that, he'd have used nylon.

I completely agree with Joey..... phenolic amplifies due to it's very hard properties !!!


- Eddie Wheat

 

[masonh]

he was just joking around about the clamping to pieces of wood together.unless he is using White Elmers,then i would understand.

 

[RDCustomCues]

I core some wood other i do not it just depends.

 

[qbilder]

he was just joking around about the clamping to pieces of wood together.unless he is using White Elmers,then i would understand.

Don't knock on school glue. I hear some builders use it for ferrules because it leaves no glue lines. I use a different glue.

Wheaty, I was just goofing about gluing butt to butt. My "A" joint already has no metal, most of the time. The only metal I use as structural or joinery components is the 3/8-10 joint pin. But I would be interested in sharing ideas of cue dynamics.

 

[jazznpool]

I like your cuemakers approach. I'd like it even more if I knew the dimension and type of core he was using. Coring is current state of the art, IMO. Coring is extra labor and expense but the results, just in terms of added forearm strength, make it worthwhile. There are some squares of wood turned into forearms that will function very well without coring though.

Martin

Please forgive me if this has been asked.

What are the pro's and con's of coring a heavy or exotic wood. I spoke with one cuemaker who cores his cues all the way thru inorder to keep the "hit" of his cues consistant regardless of the woods he uses.

So for the most part the wood he uses for wrapless are just wood covers. the insides are made specifically to produce his signature hit.

I thought was a no-no.

please help. Thanks,

 

[masonh]

i use wood glue for ferrules,but it is pretty strong.

i have read the argument before that coring makes the forearm stronger,but i can't understand it.for example how does putting a 3/4" piece of Maple inside a piece of Blackwood or Ebony make it stronger,it seems the wood that was there before is 3 times stronger than the core wood.i konw the glue and all makes it strong,but i just can't see it.

 

[JoeyInCali]

i use wood glue for ferrules,but it is pretty strong.

i have read the argument before that coring makes the forearm stronger,but i can't understand it.for example how does putting a 3/4" piece of Maple inside a piece of Blackwood or Ebony make it stronger,it seems the wood that was there before is 3 times stronger than the core wood.i konw the glue and all makes it strong,but i just can't see it.

A maple dowel inside the ebony takes away the stress from the center of the ebony.
Think of the buttsleeve. IF that buttsleeve was all ebony compared to a sleeved ebony. Which do you think will take more abuse?

 

[hangemhigh]

I was under the impression...

....that coring also greatly reduced the chance of the forearm warping,no matter if it is Ebony or Maple

 

[qbilder]

I'm another of the disbeleivers that coring adds strength to the forearm. In certain situations like coring a heavy figured birdseye with purpleheart then yes, coring makes the forearm stronger. But in general terms like maple into cocobolo or bocote or purpleheart, not a chance. I'd have to see scientific results over long consistent testing to be convinced or even swayed in that direction.

 

[jazznpool]

With a laminated core you can see and feel it the way the forearm resists vibrating wildly (weak forearms do this) when it is put into a cue. Maybe stiffer would be the correct way to say it but it does strengthen burls and super high-figure birdseye for sure. The laminated cores that I've seen get used have high tone. IMO, maple, bocote, purpleheart, ipe and several other hardwoods would also be more than acceptable as a coring wood provided it has good to great tap tone. Blackwood or ebony is usually cored to relieve weight, not to add strength. Thuddy ebony could be improved with a good core. Of course, there are those that think/ believe tap tone is hogwash in cuemaking. Whatever!

Martin

i use wood glue for ferrules,but it is pretty strong.

i have read the argument before that coring makes the forearm stronger,but i can't understand it.for example how does putting a 3/4" piece of Maple inside a piece of Blackwood or Ebony make it stronger,it seems the wood that was there before is 3 times stronger than the core wood.i konw the glue and all makes it strong,but i just can't see it.

 

[hangemhigh]

Eric,could you clarify....

I'm another of the disbeleivers that coring adds strength to the forearm. In certain situations like coring a heavy figured birdseye with purpleheart then yes, coring makes the forearm stronger. But in general terms like maple into cocobolo or bocote or purpleheart, not a chance. I'd have to see scientific results over long consistent testing to be convinced or even swayed in that direction.

......."strength" please? Are we both on the same page when I use "warping" and you use "strength"?

 

[qbilder]

......."strength" please? Are we both on the same page when I use "warping" and you use "strength"?

My comment was in response to Martin & Mason regarding strength, not warpage. Yes, I do agree coring helps alleviate warpage to an extent. However, I don't think it is neccesary for slow turned & cured woods that are already stable & get sealed up correctly. It does allow one to use wood much sooner than us who do not core. For instance, I cut a square to dowel & then bore the hole through & core it. I can cut it down to a couple cuts oversize right away & let it rest for a couple of weeks & then put it into a cue. Coring releives the internal stress of the wood & then reinforces. For stabilization efficiency, coring gets an A+ in my book.

 

[icem3n]

Please forgive me if this has been asked.

What are the pro's and con's of coring a heavy or exotic wood. I spoke with one cuemaker who cores his cues all the way thru inorder to keep the "hit" of his cues consistant regardless of the woods he uses.

So for the most part the wood he uses for wrapless are just wood covers. the insides are made specifically to produce his signature hit.

I thought was a no-no.

please help. Thanks,

I have played a few cues which are cored. Some play nice and some not. I played with Quadro cored, stiff as a steel pole but control is excellent. Dual cored, not bad.

Some cored cue that I played with even has very crisp hit.

 

[masonh]

not big on the feel of laminated Maple in pool cues.i have yet to find any laminated Maple that has better tone than some dense Rosewoods,Bocote,straight grain Maple,etc.i guess it is out there i just haven't seen it.

 

[JoeyInCali]

not big on the feel of laminated Maple in pool cues.i have yet to find any laminated Maple that has better tone than some dense Rosewoods,Bocote,straight grain Maple,etc.i guess it is out there i just haven't seen it.

Seen 'em and rejected 'em.

 

[masonh]

i bought a bunch of the old growth submerged wood awhile back and one of the boards was not completely straight grained and the ring count was only around 12rpi.i was given a replacement board for that one,as it was all supposed to be 30+rpi.i know that rpi isn't the only way to consider shatwood,but as a selling point it is important.i planned to charge more for this wood.

i decided to cut it up into hanled pieces today.i need 4 18" long dowells fast and the boards were 38" long so it worked out OK.kind of expensive,but not too bad.this stuff is incredibly dense and has excellent tone.i dowelled them today and will cut them to .750" and .875" for the butt sleeve part next week.

i think they will be excellent handle dowells.i will let you guys know how it turns out.i am suprised out how strong and dense this stuff feels and the tone is excellent.the handles are Curly Koa,Quilted Maple,5A Birdseye,Quilted Sapele and African Olive so they all need to be cored except maybe the Sapele,but i didn't want to use a long piece of it b/c it was very expensive as the figure is strong.