corian and cuemaking

Dave38

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
This may seem a little strange, but was wondering if it would be a bad idea to use corian as points, as like using point wood blanks? Would regular epoxy work well? I have done a search on the subject of corian, and am trying to find a use for the all white cutoffs that I have left over from a project that I did. It's 3/4" thick and don't want to throw them away. I was thinking about ferrules, but have heard in the past that they were brittle, even capped and threaded. Does anyone have any recent info on whether this is still true (formula changes, etc)? Any ideas welcome.
Dave
 
I think it would be fine. I just never was a fan of the flecked colors. But if you have solid white, it would be a low cost alternative to ivory & look great. Epoxy should be fine.
 
Dave38 said:
This may seem a little strange, but was wondering if it would be a bad idea to use corian as points, as like using point wood blanks? Would regular epoxy work well? I have done a search on the subject of corian, and am trying to find a use for the all white cutoffs that I have left over from a project that I did. It's 3/4" thick and don't want to throw them away. I was thinking about ferrules, but have heard in the past that they were brittle, even capped and threaded. Does anyone have any recent info on whether this is still true (formula changes, etc)? Any ideas welcome.
Dave
Click to expand...

I have always been afraid of finish not sticking properly to corian. I once built a cue for a fellow and put some small corian inlays or rings into it. I don't remember which. Anyway, I wondered how the finish would stick at that time. I seen the cue just 3 or 4 weeks later and there was a small air bubble where the finish had lost adhesion from the substrate but had not chipped. This was near the butt cap directly above the corian. I don't know if he had bumped the cue against a chair or some other hard object or what but I have refrained from using it since. I hope some one has some positive feedback on it's use as it would be great for many white or off white inlays and extremely economical. I've seen it at Flea Markets in 12X12X.500 or .750 for as cheap as 10.00.

Dick
 
rhncue said:
I have always been afraid of finish not sticking properly to corian. I once built a cue for a fellow and put some small corian inlays or rings into it. I don't remember which. Anyway, I wondered how the finish would stick at that time. I seen the cue just 3 or 4 weeks later and there was a small air bubble where the finish had lost adhesion from the substrate but had not chipped. This was near the butt cap directly above the corian. I don't know if he had bumped the cue against a chair or some other hard object or what but I have refrained from using it since. I hope some one has some positive feedback on it's use as it would be great for many white or off white inlays and extremely economical. I've seen it at Flea Markets in 12X12X.500 or .750 for as cheap as 10.00.

Dick
Click to expand...
Don't the edges look transluscent Dick?
Since they are countertop material, they're prolly designe to be as slick as possible.
Maybe sand 'em 320 then epoxy coat ?
 
I've used corian in my ring billets way back with good success. Cuts nice, glues well with epoxy and if you use the right color it does not look translucent at the edges. There are a number of different white colors used in the manufacture of corian and for cues to look good you need to use the right one, IMO. That's the only color I have ever used.
I only use it now for fixtures in the shop.
The counter shop down the road gives it to me if I need any...:-)
 
I have used them in the past and found they do not hold up as well as other materials like ivorx. If you do make a ferrule from it be sure to use a fiber pad to help keep it from cracking.
 
I'm certified by dupont to install and fabricate corian and have done alot of experiments with adhesives and finishes. Regular epoxy holds just fine as long as its not quick setting. As far as the finish goes, the finest sand paper that could be used is 320 or 400. Any finer the finish won't stick to and you'll definately run into problems. The best sanding paper is the micro mesh paper, it smooths it ou nicely and you won't see the scratches. It's pretty hard to find, dupont has a lock down on who and what they sell to people. If anybody wants to experiment, let me know, I have plenty of cut-offs in white with black specs-white with blue specs and white with black and grey specs. Also havesome blue with white specs. No solid colors though. As far as the ferrule issue, I think it would just be a matter of time before it cracked because it is a very fragile material.
 
8-07-0620cue20pics20039.jpg

I was told the green inlays on my schon were corian
 
gluton1 said:
As far as the ferrule issue, I think it would just be a matter of time before it cracked because it is a very fragile material.
Click to expand...

And it is used for counter tops where things are being banged onto it daily?
 
I made one Q with this material, for points. The points cracked, when I started to cut the Q to final size. I never used it again...JER
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
I made one Q with this material, for points. The points cracked, when I started to cut the Q to final size. I never used it again...JER
Click to expand...
Was that with live tooling or a cutter??
 
I have made a lot of pens with Corian and never had any problems machining it. Have used it as small inlays in cues and pens also without cracking.
 
Prather has been using Corian for inlays for years.
I use it as inlay mtrl. when building billets, particularly
when the billet is for Lucasi cues.
Corian does come in solid colors and there are at least 3 shades
of white that I know of. Pure white, ivory white and a white that
when cut, has a very slight gray tint to it.
One use that hasn't been mentioned yet is that it
serves well for Hoppe rings.
 
Thanks for all the input and ideas guys. I hope to be able to play with some ideas soon, now that work has slowed up for a bit. I have some sheets that are flecked, various colors in 1/2" thickness, that I'll try for inlays, once I fugure out how to use my cnc machine:D , then I have the white in 3/4". It is a solid white, to bad it's not the ivory color.
Dave
 
KJ Cues said:
Prather has been using Corian for inlays for years.
I use it as inlay mtrl. when building billets, particularly
when the billet is for Lucasi cues.
Corian does come in solid colors and there are at least 3 shades
of white that I know of. Pure white, ivory white and a white that
when cut, has a very slight gray tint to it.
One use that hasn't been mentioned yet is that it
serves well for Hoppe rings.
Click to expand...
indeed it does ;)

spanky2.jpg
 
follow up on corian

i got hold of some corian, pure white with the intention of using it as veneer for butterflies
1/4" thick, i ran thru my drum sander to 75/1000ths
well, i dont think it's going to work fellas
i can see thru the corian:rolleyes:

i'm concerned that the other color veneers will show thru it, especially at the tips of points at it's thinnest
only thing i can think of doing, trying , and this is pure conjecture, would be to coat the backside of the corian with a white epoxy????

i dont know if all corian is translucent or if just the stuff i have is????

if i used elforyn, same scenario, over a dark color veneer, .075" thick or even thinner, would it also be translucent???????????????
i've never seen elforyn other than pics on here

any thoughts, ideas, suggestions ??????????

 
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