coring & gluing

Jr's Farm said:
Question about how you guys are using the poly glue.
Are you guys using water on the coring dowel at all or just using the glue straight from the bottle?
The poly glue needs moisture in the mix to respond and work accordingly. I'm not sure if 6% moisture content of wood is enough for the glue to react and reach it's full cure.

Regards,
Frank
Neither. Never never never never use water on the coring dowel. Did I mention never? Only use water in the cored hole. If you use water on the coring dowel you will most likely never get the dowel in before it grabs. Put glue on dowel and water in hole.
 
Glue

masonh said:
are the gorilla fans saying that the epoxy will absorb into the cue saying that if you get the dowell and the sleeve both completely coated in epoxy that one of them will suck all the epoxy off part of the other and leave a dry spot on the wood?

does that go for the a-joint,joint pin,butt sleeves and collars as well?



NO, MAYBE.

Bob Flynn/Denali Pool Cues
 
The epoxy creating cavities in a core is totally different than "A" joint. My "A" joint has the bore filled with epoxy, then put together & excess epoxy spills out. With a core, the epoxy is pushed out without a reservoir, so needed glue that was there is no longer. I'm sure there's ways to make it work. I just don't really care much because I rarely core. I just stated my experience, my observations of a comparative test between poly & epoxy. To each their own.

As for buttsleeves, I don't use epoxy. I use wood glue. In my opinion, nothing is better for wood than wood glue. It's as strong or stronger than epoxy & leaves no glue lines. Tollerances must be tight, but that's easy in the short buttsleeve. I believe it would be the best for coring if it were possible to keep it from locking up before the core was fully through. Just my opinions. I have four types of wood glue, two epoxies, two polys, & a half dozen cyano types & I use all for different aspects of cue construction. I'd say anything that works well is good enough so long as who's using it is comfortable with it.
 
So as they say, if it's not broke, don't fix it.
But how do you fix, when you don't know what's broke.
Time will tell. :grin:
 
I just looked at the redwood burl piece that I coated with epoxy last week, and was surprised at how much had soaked in again, even though in the course of 30 minutes, I re-coated all soaked in areas about 4 times, using a slow set epoxy. I have included a pic to show what I meant. The greyish, dull areas are where it soaked in. I will follow BHQ's idea to coat, dry, and rebore a cored piece if I use epoxy again to do coring. IMO, some of the softer woods will soak up and create some gaps/dry spots using epoxy. I don't think the hardwoods will be a problem, just the softer stuff like burls, etc. In the case of an A joint, butt sleeve, I pretty much agree with Eric, and don't think the same issue will be an issue.
Just My opinion, as other's have said, do what you feel works.
Dave
epoxy redwood.jpg
 
qbilder said:
The epoxy creating cavities in a core is totally different than "A" joint. My "A" joint has the bore filled with epoxy, then put together & excess epoxy spills out. With a core, the epoxy is pushed out without a reservoir, so needed glue that was there is no longer. I'm sure there's ways to make it work. I just don't really care much because I rarely core. I just stated my experience, my observations of a comparative test between poly & epoxy. To each their own.

As for buttsleeves, I don't use epoxy. I use wood glue. In my opinion, nothing is better for wood than wood glue. It's as strong or stronger than epoxy & leaves no glue lines. Tollerances must be tight, but that's easy in the short buttsleeve. I believe it would be the best for coring if it were possible to keep it from locking up before the core was fully through. Just my opinions. I have four types of wood glue, two epoxies, two polys, & a half dozen cyano types & I use all for different aspects of cue construction. I'd say anything that works well is good enough so long as who's using it is comfortable with it.

what about cutting the wood glue with water. maybe like 4 to 1 just to thin it out for the install. do you think it would affect the bond between the two pieces? i agree wood glue for wood to wood serfices is best
 
I think it would be ok, but still gonna be tricky. With wood glue you need very close tollerances. If it's gonna fit that good, it's going to be tough getting the core through. The moisture will cause swelling, and swelling causes a lock.
 
qbilder said:
I think it would be ok, but still gonna be tricky. With wood glue you need very close tollerances. If it's gonna fit that good, it's going to be tough getting the core through. The moisture will cause swelling, and swelling causes a lock.

Hmmm, when it locks, to crack :eek: I mean to tap or not to tap and trash it. That could be a question or an action or an oops. :grin-square:
 
Michael Webb said:
Hmmm, when it locks, to crack :eek: I mean to tap or not to tap and trash it. That could be a question or an action or an oops. :grin-square:

I have never had wood glue lock, just assume it would & see how a guy could get into trouble with it.......yeeeeah......:nono:

Yeah, I have thrown away a few nice pieces of wood because of glue experimentations.
 
Michael Webb said:
Hmmm, when it locks, to crack :eek: I mean to tap or not to tap and trash it. That could be a question or an action or an oops. :grin-square:

I suppose worst case scenario would be just cut off the overhanging core, re-bore and do it again (with more clearance and speed). No need to force it and make it crack, then you will have to toss it.
 
Jr's Farm said:
I suppose worst case scenario would be just cut off the overhanging core, re-bore and do it again (with more clearance and speed). No need to force it and make it crack, then you will have to toss it.

Yes Sir, I was being a smart ass, but when I first started coring, That 5 lb. sledge sure looked tempting. :smash: :D
 
No answers needed, just wanted to give you all something to think about. We all don't follow the same path but how many paths are there, Did you research or did you go by what someone else said to do.
* DON"T ANSWER, JUST THINK.*

SHhhhhh...........quiet...I'm still thinking!
 
The laugh of the day

qbilder said:
Oh just say it already!!!! You learned from wheaty.
:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :D :D :D

Bob Flynn/Denali Pool Cues:
 
The question I have from a players perspective is what glue hits better when used in a cored cue? Does it add or take away from the hit of a cue when different glues are used?
 
patrickjuhlin said:
The question I have from a players perspective is what glue hits better when used in a cored cue? Does it add or take away from the hit of a cue when different glues are used?
No comment.:D
 
dave sutton said:
what about cutting the wood glue with water. maybe like 4 to 1 just to thin it out for the install. do you think it would affect the bond between the two pieces? i agree wood glue for wood to wood serfices is best
Wood glue works good if both pieces are flat and glued under pressure. But for tenons into table legs it is no good. So that is pretty much what a core is, so I have my doubts about it being a good glue for coring.
 
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