Coring Question
- Thread starter digdug
- Start date
Depends on what your trying to achieve. If I have a heavy fore wood I may maple step core it .650 out the nose and .775 toward the handle. If I'm doing a seg handle, again it depends on the wood....heavy wood...I might do a maple core any size from .650 to .800 depending on where I want the final weight to be. A lighter weight wood in the handle calls for an .800 purple heart core. I try to mix and match woods that will weight out with no metal but the joint pin if possible.
There's really no set size for coring in my book. Just depends on what the woods call for.
There's really no set size for coring in my book. Just depends on what the woods call for.
i agree those gentlemen above, there's no rule in coring, those sizes are common in cues. Even me uses those sizes on my cues. To add, it defends to the cuemaker on whats he think is the best.
More powers to all,
Al
More powers to all,
Al
.658 and .758 here so my dowels are .650 and .750.
The rings ID can stay at .625 or .750 and I can still thread the tenons.
The rings ID can stay at .625 or .750 and I can still thread the tenons.
Thanks for that tip a long time ago.
I also have one for handles at .883.
But, have never used it yet.
Hi,
I core my forearms with .625 and rest of the cue with .750 gun drills. For full cored cues, I cut a stepped dowel to .010 undersize respectfully for my glue gap. I love the gorilla glue and when I was using West System during a beta testing period of my cues I found 2 cues that would buzz when you bounced them on the floor on the bumper. Voids - Not Good!!!
Since I have been using the GG, the cues ring very solid when I tap them with a wrench on the side. I love to use the high figure soft curly for handles and the coring with GG it even makes that wood sound very solid although the tap sounds more like a thud rather than a higher pitched ring that I hear with other denser wood.
Rick G
I core my forearms with .625 and rest of the cue with .750 gun drills. For full cored cues, I cut a stepped dowel to .010 undersize respectfully for my glue gap. I love the gorilla glue and when I was using West System during a beta testing period of my cues I found 2 cues that would buzz when you bounced them on the floor on the bumper. Voids - Not Good!!!
Since I have been using the GG, the cues ring very solid when I tap them with a wrench on the side. I love to use the high figure soft curly for handles and the coring with GG it even makes that wood sound very solid although the tap sounds more like a thud rather than a higher pitched ring that I hear with other denser wood.
Rick G
Coring
I use all 3. Since I use ebony & cocobolo for 85%of my cues,as mentioned above; weight & balance point varies per my customers specs.
Trial & error are always the best teaching tools. GG is definately the way to go,even though I have used "slow set" epoxy w/no buzz.
P
I use all 3. Since I use ebony & cocobolo for 85%of my cues,as mentioned above; weight & balance point varies per my customers specs.
Trial & error are always the best teaching tools. GG is definately the way to go,even though I have used "slow set" epoxy w/no buzz.
P
I use a 11/16 to core. I just like that little extra bit of wood around the core when the cue is finished.
I use a .680 and a .775 gun drill, it allows me to clean it up afterwards. I will step core depending on the wood and where I want to balance.
Its really up to the builder what sizes and how they core, I use Gorilla Glue, Never any voids.
Its really up to the builder what sizes and how they core, I use Gorilla Glue, Never any voids.
My dowels are a bit larger, so i can trim it down to exact size for the ring.
Also depending on what wood I will core, weight issue or stability issue affects the size I would use.
Then I bore it out to size for concentricity.