Coring!
- Thread starter Kim Bye
- Start date
Problem with boring bar is it would be hard to get repeatable results. I tried this with a home made bar and it's almost impossible to do without getting chatter in your cut. You would have to almost use a solid carbide. I would love to know how that maker was able to bore the hole that far successfully. I always thought a purpose made reamer would be the ticket because you could repeat the results easily.
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Is the tapered gun drill a myth?
Surely you jest? How would a drill cut a taper? A drill only cuts from the cutting edges at the front of the drill or in the case of a gun drill a single cutting edge. Not sure what the concept behind a tapered gun drill would be?
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A poly glue from Europe.
He had a long boring bar and used his taper bar to run it through it. He would core it first then clean it up with his boring bar. The boring bar was maybe 14 inches long.
He was using a Enco 12 x 36" Metal lathe.
I have tried doing this exact thing. Do you know what type of bar he was using? Was is it a bar that used inserts? Or did the maker build the bar himself?
It had an insert on the end of it.
Thanks , I am going to try and build a new bar. Your story has inpired me to try a second time. I will post my results.
It seems like the very best way of doing it if you can do the small skim pass after coring. Core 5/8 and then just skim the inside with either full taper with the taper bar or use less taper angle. I see no reason less taper than the regular cue taper would not work just fine. Then we can glue with epoxy under pressure.
I posted this several years ago and you should have seen how much ridicule we got over it. I never did figure out why this method bothered so many people at the time.
Industry does line boring all the time. It is a bar with a tool that sticks out the diameter of the bar. It travels down though a precision bush or bearing on each end. One end is driven and has a feed per rev feed/pusher. All the ones I have seen just have the single keyway slot.
To make a taper, instead of the bar rotating, the work can rotate with the bar set at the taper required and then pushed through. Just another thought for some one.
Neil
To make a taper, instead of the bar rotating, the work can rotate with the bar set at the taper required and then pushed through. Just another thought for some one.
Neil
Not sure why people would choose to ridicule, it seams like a good solution and a step forward in technology. Do you have link? Did anyone have any legitamate concerns with using a tapered bore? To me the dilemma has always been how to execute never the concept. Lots of guys are doing a stepped core, to me the tapered core would be better because with the stepped core you are introducing another endgrain situation. My thinking has always been that where ever there is endgrain against endgrain you have potential for buzz.
I am familiar with line boring but never heard of the concept of cutting a taper while line boring. Not sure how you would do that on the lathe but thanks for the info.
On the lathe, the max angle is determined by what can pass through the spindle bore.
For the lathe the bar is non rotating, and is guided with a self aligning bearing in behind the chuck. It takes a fair bit to set up, the one I have seen was used on a Colchester lathe back in the early 80's.
The bar was not retracted after the last pass.
Neil
For the lathe the bar is non rotating, and is guided with a self aligning bearing in behind the chuck. It takes a fair bit to set up, the one I have seen was used on a Colchester lathe back in the early 80's.
The bar was not retracted after the last pass.
Neil
Some step the core to .625 for the forearm and .750 for the rest of the butt.
Taper boring is not necessary..... and very few have the tools to do it.
I use a full length .750 core for the butt and use GG........... it has worked for the last 125 cues..................
Kim
Taper boring is not necessary..... and very few have the tools to do it.
I use a full length .750 core for the butt and use GG........... it has worked for the last 125 cues..................
Kim
Fulll length core is not necessary. Millions of cues have been made without them.
But, that shouldn't stop you.
I have cored one piece butts using the above method with .650 and .775 coring drills and glued with gorilla glue. The reason for the angled core is for gluing with epoxy. Epoxy is a better glue than gorilla glue but has the negative of possible dry spots when using normal coring methods. My previous fear for coring has been the break down of the glue in 20 or so years. But many have built cues 20 years ago now that are still holding up with polyurethane types of glue. So maybe my earlier fears were unfounded. For a long time I would rarely core because of this fear.
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I didn't think of that reason.......... that would be best for epoxy........ especially an epoxy that has a tendency to soak in..
Kim