Cue Balance Point Misconception ???
- Thread starter HawaiianEye
- Start date
That's easy. Get an assortment of washers? and put em between the shaft and the joint. Then shoot various follow and draw shots to get the feel of the differences, then make your choice, gotta start somewhere.
Here's the setup for my break cue/cuetec. The 1/2 oz brass joint washer and the 3/4'' brass ferrule make this work. Cue was originally 17oz, it's about 18 now, but the forward weight change was dramatic.
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well it depends...,
I agree that it depends on a number of factors, I grew up playing with house cues, all house cues are butt heavy, so when I purchased my first cue I looked for one that gave me the same feel that I was use to. I still prefer that butt heavy feel to this day
I agree that it depends on a number of factors, I grew up playing with house cues, all house cues are butt heavy, so when I purchased my first cue I looked for one that gave me the same feel that I was use to. I still prefer that butt heavy feel to this day
Strange answers
I guess I must be missing something ?
If you remove the butt cap on allot of cues you will find many them are drilled and threaded about 8 to 12 inches.
Some have weight bolts some don't, All of my cue's are drilled and tapped for a weight bolt and I use either all threaded rod or set screws.
if I use Elmer's glue on the set screws I can move the set screw in or out depending where I want my balance point.
I like 20 1/4 inches balance point , which is about 1.5 inches above the linen wrap.
It is a forward balance on a 3/8x 10 wood to wood joint.
Stainless steel joints are already front heavy and piloted shafts weight more too. so each brand of cue cam be different depending on the joint.
If you want your cue fixed where you can adjust the balance point and are worried you don't know what you are doing most cue repair guys can drill and tap the butt of your cue.
I guess I must be missing something ?
If you remove the butt cap on allot of cues you will find many them are drilled and threaded about 8 to 12 inches.
Some have weight bolts some don't, All of my cue's are drilled and tapped for a weight bolt and I use either all threaded rod or set screws.
if I use Elmer's glue on the set screws I can move the set screw in or out depending where I want my balance point.
I like 20 1/4 inches balance point , which is about 1.5 inches above the linen wrap.
It is a forward balance on a 3/8x 10 wood to wood joint.
Stainless steel joints are already front heavy and piloted shafts weight more too. so each brand of cue cam be different depending on the joint.
If you want your cue fixed where you can adjust the balance point and are worried you don't know what you are doing most cue repair guys can drill and tap the butt of your cue.
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The exact point at which the cue balanced never really interested me other than I preferred a cue that was forward weighted. That is; a balance point in front of the 'A' joint.
Please enlighten me, where/what is the "A" joint on a cue ?
Thanks Dale
In many cue butts, the forearm and the handle are made as separate parts. The "A" joint then connects them.
Please excuse my ignorance.
Can you explain to me how a BP at 20.25inches can be 1.5inches above the wrap.
I would guess on average a Butt Cap, Butt Sleeve & Handle would together be approx. 16-17inches up the cue.
Thanks
I had been told many years ago by Filipino Gene in San Francisco, that he felt that if you had a BIG stroke a back weighted heavier cue would be best to keep it under control; if you did not have a big stroke and needed a little help from your equipment he thought a lighter, more forward balance cue would be best to help you stroke through the cueball better. It always made sense to me but I just go by how the cue feels in MY hands.
Interesting topic.
Dave
Interesting topic.
Dave
In my humble / obnoxious opinion, the balance point of a cue is about one 1,000th as important as how you align a shot.
Basically, it's an irrelevant fetishistic curiosity for cue collectors who would be beaten handily by a decent player who shaped a nice tip onto a mop handle!
Colin
Basically, it's an irrelevant fetishistic curiosity for cue collectors who would be beaten handily by a decent player who shaped a nice tip onto a mop handle!
Colin
Cue's balance point is overrated and misunderstood .
Not all 58" cues with 19.00" from the bottom as balance point feels the same .
Take a 19 oz cue with maple forearm and maple handle compare that to a cue with maple forearm and purpleheart handle that also weighs 19 oz.
The one with pplheart handle will have less ( if any ) weight added .
It will feel differently .
For players with death grip, the balance point does not matter that much .
For players with stroke slip, two finger hold and loose grip, it might matter more.
Making adjustable balance cue has been done for ages . You can have set screws at the bottom if you want. You can even have set screws on the shafts if you want .
All moot imo . A good player should have no problems with a cue that weighs to his liking and 18.75-19" balance point from the bottom .
Not all 58" cues with 19.00" from the bottom as balance point feels the same .
Take a 19 oz cue with maple forearm and maple handle compare that to a cue with maple forearm and purpleheart handle that also weighs 19 oz.
The one with pplheart handle will have less ( if any ) weight added .
It will feel differently .
For players with death grip, the balance point does not matter that much .
For players with stroke slip, two finger hold and loose grip, it might matter more.
Making adjustable balance cue has been done for ages . You can have set screws at the bottom if you want. You can even have set screws on the shafts if you want .
All moot imo . A good player should have no problems with a cue that weighs to his liking and 18.75-19" balance point from the bottom .
I'd play with a cue with a polystyrene shaft or a polystyrene butt, so long as it was solid enough to not fracture. Would not cause a miss imho.
You'd play better with a custom cue and select shafts . :grin:
Top of the wrap on the cues I own are 18 inches from the butt of the cue.
Balance point is about 1.5 inches above the wrap.
I don't have a DP cue that I can look at to really answer your question.
A DP is not a 3/8 x 10 pin wood to wood joint either !
If its a SS joint then the balance point will be lower down on the butt.
When a cue feels right, it seems to follow and draw the cue ball with near identical distance results when using the same swing speed.
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Sherman Duke
Registered
I pretty much adjust up and down the grip depending on the shot.
My cue is very light and longer than a house cue... made for my reach.
On delicate shots I tend to choke up, while gripping near the
end on long shots.
My cue is very light and longer than a house cue... made for my reach.
On delicate shots I tend to choke up, while gripping near the
end on long shots.
That's weird. I decide how pretty a cue is based on its balance point.
I won't disagree with that statement, but I'll try that so I might concur.
When Guido Orlandi made my new Cue, everything became effortless.
I have no clue about the balance point and could care less where it is.
When I try a cue I pick it up and swing it back and forth, I can tell how it feels in 10 swings or less. I don’t have to hit balls to check it; if I do I only hit the cue ball.
If you pick up a cue I don't think it matters if its 10 oz or 3 lbs, you are going to hold it where it feels comfortable and not awkward, that does not mean you will be holding it there when you stroke, it's a feel.
Baseball players swing hundreds of bats and never hit a ball; they may keep 5 bats out of the bunch, maybe none.
I play with a 20-1/4 oz black ebony, steel joint, weight forward, no rear weight. This is what I like; it feels right in my hand. I have had many cues, the delivery weight is right for me, I get a better feel for the weight of the cue, and the cue ball does somersaults with little effort. My swing hand and bridge move into different positions along with grip pressure for different shot and strokes, I adjust to where it feels right for each delivery. I have no clue where the balance is. My foot balance is more important to me.
I have played pool with mops, brooms, golf clubs, and big fat pencils. I believe you can adjust to anything if you use it long enough, house cues have won thousands.
Those Meucci Cues that feel like crap in my hand have won many championships.
We are all spoiled, I love pool cues, and the cue makers of today and yesterday are awesome.
I can miss with any cue, on any table, with any balls.
Sincerely:SS
When I try a cue I pick it up and swing it back and forth, I can tell how it feels in 10 swings or less. I don’t have to hit balls to check it; if I do I only hit the cue ball.
If you pick up a cue I don't think it matters if its 10 oz or 3 lbs, you are going to hold it where it feels comfortable and not awkward, that does not mean you will be holding it there when you stroke, it's a feel.
Baseball players swing hundreds of bats and never hit a ball; they may keep 5 bats out of the bunch, maybe none.
I play with a 20-1/4 oz black ebony, steel joint, weight forward, no rear weight. This is what I like; it feels right in my hand. I have had many cues, the delivery weight is right for me, I get a better feel for the weight of the cue, and the cue ball does somersaults with little effort. My swing hand and bridge move into different positions along with grip pressure for different shot and strokes, I adjust to where it feels right for each delivery. I have no clue where the balance is. My foot balance is more important to me.
I have played pool with mops, brooms, golf clubs, and big fat pencils. I believe you can adjust to anything if you use it long enough, house cues have won thousands.
Those Meucci Cues that feel like crap in my hand have won many championships.
We are all spoiled, I love pool cues, and the cue makers of today and yesterday are awesome.
I can miss with any cue, on any table, with any balls.
Sincerely:SS