Cue Cases REVISITED......WHAT is WRONG with your FAVORITE CASE???

To the People who complain about your Whitten Sliping Off Your Shoulder, it is a know FLAW in Dan & Joes DESIGN. Honestly the Casemakers who make the BEST Anti-slip Shoulder Pad are Jack Justis, John Barton, and Dennis Swift in no special order....... IMHO...
 
For me, I have an On Q, it is a bit heavy but I keep it at the poolroom so I am lucky to not have to lug it around. The pockets are tough to reach in and get stuff out of but I just keep stuff in a ziplock bag and pull it out.

This is the answer to your problem...
disposable-straight-clips.jpg
 
I love my laperti case as it holds everything I need for a game of pool but, what I don't like about it is it dosen't stand up, I have to lean it against a wall with my cues in it so that it dosen't fall over.

incidently there was a pool player in the 2005 world championship darvinder singh lily who had what looked like a kick stand on the back of his case & I was wondering wether I could modify my case like this or is their one already on the market like this?.
 
I also have a John Barton Flowers tribute and love everything except that the zippers on the side of the pockets makes it a bit hard to take stuff out, and put stuff in. Other than that, to me its perfect.

Is stuff hard to get in and out because of the zipper or because the leather is so stiff.

That's a nice feature of my Whitten; the leather used on the pockets is nice and soft. Easy to deal with.
 
To the People who complain about your Whitten Sliping Off Your Shoulder, it is a know FLAW in Dan & Joes DESIGN. Honestly the Casemakers who make the BEST Anti-slip Shoulder Pad are Jack Justis, John Barton, and Dennis Swift in no special order....... IMHO...

My Swift case stays on my shoulder like it was glued there !!!
 
Your wish is my command.

Sterling Black Superior Soft Pool Cue Case for 2 Cues
STS6K3List: $55.00 Order Yours: $45.00

John, I understand that Sterling is doing a great job of selling your cases, but, it would be sooooooooooo helpful if they would post some pictures of the inside of your cases on their web site. Can you help us with that, John?
 
The only thing i dont like about my instroke is the shoulder pad it slips and rotates and does not reallt stay on my shoulder to well.
 
Is stuff hard to get in and out because of the zipper or because the leather is so stiff.

That's a nice feature of my Whitten; the leather used on the pockets is nice and soft. Easy to deal with.

On any type of case with a box pocket - that is a pocket with square corners and only a single zipper on the long side access the interior - the pockets will be difficult to use.

It has nothing to do with the leather. Access to the inside of the pocket is only as good as the method that the case maker builds into the pocket.

On a Whitten to use your example the zipper extends from the top corner down below the lower corner, even a bit too much if you ask me because the zipper can be unzipped enough to spill all the contents of the pocket. It does however provide great access to the contents.

On the Instroke case Cowboy models I put a zipper in the center of the lower pocket and a flap plus a side zipper on the upper pocket.

On JB Cases I do everything from having U-zippers which start on one side at the bottom and go all the way around the pocket to the bottom of the other side, L-zippers which start at the top corner and go down to the bottom corner, I-zippers which are one straight zipper on the side or top, diagonal zippers, zippers which make the pocket open like the hood of a car, etc........ Basically anything anyone wants.

The thing is that a lot of folks sacrifice convenience for looks. At some point Jack Justis decided that his pockets were only going to have zippers on the side presumably to preserve the clean look of the box pocket. And since it's apparent that many people like this "look" they have to sacrifice usability to have that look. The J.Flowers line that we make has adopted, for now, the same style of pockets to achieve the same look. Thus the trade off, clean lines with 90 degree corners vs. easy access to the pockets.

I have invented a box pocket with an L-zipper. It requires a little more refinement before I will use it regularly. When it's done however then it will become standard on all cases which have boxy type pockets. I too dislike owning a case which restricts my access to the pockets.

I feel that one should be able to open and see inside the pocket and find and get to everything that one is looking for.

Pockets are something that I have worked on for a while. I have done prototypes of reconfigurable pockets with dividers like camera cases, have done pockets with compartments, pockets with multiple zippers.

Murnak does some interesting pockets with multi-compartments.

My very first case ever had a "pocket" that was a men's bag (man purse) from the local Walgreens that I glued onto the body of the case. It was actually the best and most useful pocket on a cue case ever.

Right now I just did a protoype of a butterfly case with three-level pockets and many compartments.

Personally I feel that it's to each his own. There is no perfect solution. I like to carry a laptop backpack filled with all sorts of "stuff" that I think I might need sometime. Some of my friends are happy to carry only a neoprene sleeve with a handle.

My "big" case is a Sterling Wave 3x6 with the pockets filled with tips, tip tools, powder, towel, business cards, a survival kit :-)

Right now I am on vacation and the case I brought with me is a GTF 2x4 Storage case with no pockets and no strap. I love the simplicity of it, just my cues and me, I even have to depend on foraging chalk wherever I go.
 
I kind of do like glass fiber injected composite material just because its a lot stronger.

It is definately a tradeoff. I would imagine not only are you giving up abit of strength and adding weight to the case with the wood caps but it would also end up being more expensive too. It would probably end up being another line of the cases, The "Classic" line or the like.

This...

http://www.throckmortondrums.com/item/image/14/midsize/macassar_ebony.jpg

on the top of this (I am pretty positive that this is my exact actual case given the tiny glue smudge on the small pocket of the case in the upper right)

http://www.indyq.com/cases/GTF/Enlarged Prestige Brushed Blue Suede 2x4.html

would make my case even better looking IMO.
 
I am try to come up with the perfect case to carry, 2 butt sections, 4 shafts, a j/b handle, and 16" hagger extension, and a big pro just a bridge, and I want it light, and with (2) Pockers I can carry all my crap in....
 
Ohhhh this is a good thread. I own a great case but there are things I would change. John, you listening?

GTF 2X4

Design:

I would love to see GTF go to wood caps on the case instead of that plastic. I understand the plastic is probably more shock resistant but I would sacrifice the strong plastic for a nice wood on the bottom and lid caps. On the bottom wood cap the holes for the metal bits that touch the floor would need to be screwed or just glued into pre-drilled holes. AKA my blue suede GTF would look alot better with Macassar Ebony top and bottom caps. Imagine some of the burl that could be used with other types of leather, the combinations would make some amazing looking GTFs. IMO I like this thought alot better then the folded leather of the Fellini GTFs.

I would like to see the small white GTF logo move out of the butt sleeve. It is the one section of the butt sleeve that is not nice soft black fabric and it is on my mind every time I slip a cue into that slot. The stiching and more abrasive white fabric will probably never hurt the cue, but it would be better if it is not there to begin with. What would be very nice is if they went with wood caps and then inlaid a metal GTF logo into the top of the wood cap.

Pocket Capacity, Length, Width, DESIGN, Zipper Configuration etc.

A thick/padded shoulder strap would be nice. I notice some of the nicer GTFs with carving have 2 shoulder straps. Mine has a relatively thin leather shoulder strap with no padding and it gets pretty uncomfortable having it dig into your shoulder when it is fully loaded. I tried using it in Vegas when I got the case for about a day and carried the case by the handle ever since.

Capacity:

2X4 is perfect, I can transport my shooter with 2 shafts, my breaker with 1 shaft, and a jump shaft.

The jump cue must get stuffed into the long pocket though where I keep other stuff. It is a pain in the neck because I have stuff that can hurt the butt of the jump cue so I have to wrap the jump cue butt in felt before placing it in the pocket.. I would like to see a outer pocket with the same black interior material as the main section of the case that exclusively holds a jump butt the length of a predator jumper.

Weight Empty:

The weight is perfect really, you cannot go lighter and keep the level of protection. I am OK with it being a pound heavier even which the wood caps would do.

Other CHANGES would you like to make to make your Favorite ALMOST PERFECT?

The blue suede is ok but John has some of the nicest leather carving I have ever seen and could do an amazing tropical theme carved into my case with palm trees, a beach, the ocean, maybe a parrot.

At that point the case would be pretty much perfect, it is already amazing and by far the best case I have ever had.

John, is always listening, and moving to a direction to make thing work better....
 
I am try to come up with the perfect case to carry, 2 butt sections, 4 shafts, a j/b handle, and 16" hagger extension, and a big pro just a bridge, and I want it light, and with (2) Pockers I can carry all my crap in....

I would customize a GTF. Get the jump handle incorperated as a seperate lined section of the long pocket

(what I envision is a seperate zipper along the right edge of the long pocket that zips down about 4 inches down the one side and opens to a sleeve for a jump butt that you slide the butt into. The jump section is seperated from the rest of the long pocket creating two seperate compartments within that long pocket. For the utility storage you could move the zipper over abit for a I zipper that is still central to the utility pocket compartment or change to a side zipper that zips down the length of the utility pocket from the top center to the bottom corner, the base staying solid leather and the pocket allowing access to the contents easily.)

In effect like this.

X = zipper
* = utility storage compartment unlined like current GTF
l = solid leather (non-zipper section)
0 = jump cue storage compartment black cloth lined

Side zipper for utility

XXXXXXXXXXXXllllllllllllXXXX
X**************ll0000X
X**************ll0000X
X**************ll0000X
X**************ll0000X
X**************ll0000X
X**************ll0000ll
X**************ll0000ll
X**************ll0000ll
X**************ll0000ll
X**************ll0000ll
X**************ll0000ll
X**************ll0000ll
X**************ll0000ll
X**************ll0000ll
X**************ll0000ll
lllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll

or like this.

Front zipper centered for utility compartment. Same short side zipper access to jump butt compartment.

llllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllXXXX
ll*******X*******ll0000X
ll*******X*******ll0000X
ll*******X*******ll0000X
ll*******X*******ll0000X
ll*******X*******ll0000X
ll*******X*******ll0000ll
ll*******X*******ll0000ll
ll*******X*******ll0000ll
ll*******X*******ll0000ll
ll*******X*******ll0000ll
ll*******X*******ll0000ll
ll*******X*******ll0000ll
ll*******X*******ll0000ll
ll*******X*******ll0000ll
ll*******X*******ll0000ll
lllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll

Basically those two configurations for the long pocket to incorperate a jump butt sleeve into that pocket.

Hope the "graphics" make sense. Ignore the spaces in the llll sections, they are simply showing up, I did not put them there but cannot get it to show the way I write it.
 
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I am try to come up with the perfect case to carry, 2 butt sections, 4 shafts, a j/b handle, and 16" hagger extension, and a big pro just a bridge, and I want it light, and with (2) Pockers I can carry all my crap in....

I think you are asking for TOO much. You might be able to get it all except for being able to hold the just a bridge.

Here is one that has the 16" long pocket with separate jump butt pocket. I got this case for my brother in burgundy (nice looking), and he is very pleased with it. It is very affordable.

http://www.billiardwarehouse.com/cases/action/elite-elcp24.htm
 
I've got a Ron Thomas 2x4 with a suction cap, extra long strap and an internal cap to hold some things.

I do really like the case, it was made after my specifications.

What I would like to be changed: Rubber-covered feet so they keep the case more stable.

Best regards,

Detlev
 
It is definately a tradeoff. I would imagine not only are you giving up abit of strength and adding weight to the case with the wood caps but it would also end up being more expensive too. It would probably end up being another line of the cases, The "Classic" line or the like.

This...

http://www.throckmortondrums.com/item/image/14/midsize/macassar_ebony.jpg

on the top of this (I am pretty positive that this is my exact actual case given the tiny glue smudge on the small pocket of the case in the upper right)

http://www.indyq.com/cases/GTF/Enlarged Prestige Brushed Blue Suede 2x4.html

would make my case even better looking IMO.

We can do wooden endcaps. At the moment we are doing all leather endcaps on most of the GTF Prestige cases. We make a laminated leather cap that can be stained to match the leather. I have even done some that look just like wood.

I did the plastic endcaps on the first batch because I thought it was a good way to go to keep the cost down and provide a strong cap. The leather and wood ones definitely look better though and of course allow much more flexibility in design.

I agree that doing nicer endcaps will enhance the case tremendously. They are however a lot more work than simply putting on a pre-made endcap.

If you look closely at an It's George for example you will see that the edges are uneven on a lot of them because the plastic cap had to be routed flush and sanded to fit. But, they didn't sand them very much so the cap is fairly flush to the leather but not particularly well done on the finish.

We spend a lot more time on ours to get them both flush and well done on the edges and corners. With the leather and wood endcaps on the Prestige series that translates into just about as much time as we spend on the Replica folded ends. In a lot of ways doing a well done and flush end cap in the Centennial/Thomas/George style is harder than doing the folded ends.

In fact, both styles require patience and attention to detail to do them right and both styles are very easy to do wrong.
 
I imagined the wood caps would be a time consuming thing, not too mention the wood alone would not be cheap compared to the plastic.

If this year in Vegas goes like last year I may decide the time has come for my custom case and will be in touch.

BTW, do you have a picture of a GTF with a wood cap you could post?
 
I got a cheap little Vincitore from a buddy selling his.....3x6, black, it's nothing special, but it was the right price and it works.....it's tough, it can take a beating, and seems fairly well made....the pleather is a bit tough and inflexible, but you get what you pay for.....every now and then I actually get compliments on it, so I guess it's just fine....

From a design standpoint, I'd like most case makers to increase the width of their cases to have the pockets as wide as the case.....top pocket about 4x6, bottom pocket about 4x20.....
 
It is definately a tradeoff. I would imagine not only are you giving up abit of strength and adding weight to the case with the wood caps but it would also end up being more expensive too. It would probably end up being another line of the cases, The "Classic" line or the like.

This...

http://www.throckmortondrums.com/item/image/14/midsize/macassar_ebony.jpg

on the top of this (I am pretty positive that this is my exact actual case given the tiny glue smudge on the small pocket of the case in the upper right)

http://www.indyq.com/cases/GTF/Enlarged Prestige Brushed Blue Suede 2x4.html

would make my case even better looking IMO.


I think the wood end caps would be a great option, but only on the custom orders. I don't think it should be made standard line because not very many people will want to order them with wood end caps. Maybe if done in a way that is really nice and exquisite with wood work, but I think that would only continue to weaken the end caps strength. Would be nice to see, IMHO. Lots of great woods that would make wonderful end caps, but definitely custom orders only would be a nice option.
 
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