Cue finish problems

scdiveteam

Rick Geschrey
Silver Member
The 105/207 DID NOT SHRINK.
it penetrated the walls of the ferrule.
Wet mix do not shrink .
They shrink after they harden up .

And that experiment just proved the 105/207 is one of the best base coat . And 105 as A-joint epoxy .
If you know what you are doing.
Heaven forbid if some use 5-minute epoxy as base coat .

A 10 to 25% volumetric shrinkage is not from wicking in to Juma PJ.
 

scdiveteam

Rick Geschrey
Silver Member
Wasn't it just around 9 years ago you were on here asking for help because you couldn't put a joint pin in a cue straight and now you're an epoxy expert?
Are you still "massaging" your pin into zero as the glue is setting because you oversize bore the hole on a barrel style pin?

I use a Hardinge Collet chuck lathe with new bearings that runs at Zero TRO. I bore slightly over the center barrel dia. After the epoxy is inserted I indicate the pin 1.1 inches from the face and push my pin to zero 3 to 4 times for the 30 min set time. Yes I am anal about trying to achieve zero. The reality is that only about 1 of ten is zero after curing but they are all within a quarter thou when the epoxy cures completely. That's pretty good concentricity as repeatable end result. That's my business and you can do what you will in your shop.

It is none of your biz that I seek to reach for the highest apple on the tree. Being the creepy stalker that you are I would advise that if you use the self aligning pin config and install a pin utilizing that method that you will not reach the tolerance that is my standard if you indicate on the pin as I have described.

We all know that with flat faces, a pin that is +or- .002 can roll fine without a opposite compound error in the machining of the shaft. I won't describe the details of my shaft concentricity machining standard procedure because your closed mind will doubtless disagree because of your nature.

My post was intended to bring up some food for thought concerning shrinkage to the OP. You and PJ jumped on as malcontents as usual. I have been absent from AZ for 3 years moving across the country and constructing and setting up new shop. I find it amusing that somethings never change. You like to distract to boost you own ego rather than let someone else state a point of view. Good Job!
 
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JoeyInCali

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
Oh btw, making heat boxes is cheap.
You need them in winter time anyway.
Sealed cabinet ( dust free ) and a small shop heater.
 

Snooker Theory

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I can see it now, "25 years ago you asked for help so your input is meaningless now". Granted folks shouldn't give bad advice regarding cuemaking, I wonder how long one must make cues to be able to give an opinion, without having questions from a decade before brought up to negate their opinion?
 

Chili Palmer

20.769%
Silver Member
I can see it now, "25 years ago you asked for help so your input is meaningless now". Granted folks shouldn't give bad advice regarding cuemaking, I wonder how long one must make cues to be able to give an opinion, without having questions from a decade before brought up to negate their opinion?

Agreed, everyone has to learn to walk and one day they'll run faster than you :D
 

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Threads on finish are tough action.
I avoid 3 topics on here.
FINISH, major cue construction and veneering.
You have to do your homework if you want to know what is going to work for you and your cues.
People can tell you. You might save a few bucks. But nothing replaces the knowledge of what you learn by going back to square one.
To the O. P.
You actually answered your own question.
Good luck.
 

JoeyInCali

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
1.) We all know that with flat faces, a pin that is +or- .002 can roll fine without a opposite compound error in the machining of the shaft. 2.) I won't describe the details of my shaft concentricity machining standard procedure because your closed mind will doubtless disagree because of your nature.
1.The lathe has zero TRO but you can't bore the hole to the exact size of the barrel ?
2. Discussed and argued to death. Don't worry, we're not in danger of tapping shafts and then turning them again . They get live threaded and then matched to the butt.
Only a few got this shaft threader.
You should have bought one. Makes your flat bottom threads much easier to do. Just bore the hole with a 1/4 end mill on power feed. The hole comes out freaking shiny and dead nuts.

Threading for joint screws and weight inserts at the bottom is so much easier with this 2" threader too.
You can get one from one of the pool parts suppliers soon.
So many makers have already bought 'em. Some of the best makers around too. It's so easy to just mill the hole for the bottom threads then mill the barrel hole. Then thread going out. Leaves a nice glue rings around the barrel hole too.
I've had peeps thanking me for making joint screw install for 3/8 screws much easier. They don't have to leave the cue on the lathe anymore when gluing the screw. No need to "cheat" or leave the tail stock center resting on the screw.

And in the spirit of this thread.
Here's a free video from WS that is worth watching. It's a priceless video imo. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hajh5n39H8M
 

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whammo57

Kim Walker
Silver Member
Oh btw, making heat boxes is cheap.
You need them in winter time anyway.
Sealed cabinet ( dust free ) and a small shop heater.

My heat box is made from a 2X2 frame......... 48in high and 12X12 in........... two 60 watt light bulbs in the bottom ......... cues hang in the top......... thermostatically controlled ......... 77 to 82 deg


Kim
 

Hits 'em Hard

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I use a Hardinge Collet chuck lathe with new bearings that runs at Zero TRO. I bore slightly over the center barrel dia. After the epoxy is inserted I indicate the pin 1.1 inches from the face and push my pin to zero 3 to 4 times for the 30 min set time. Yes I am anal about trying to achieve zero. The reality is that only about 1 of ten is zero after curing but they are all within a quarter thou when the epoxy cures completely. That's pretty good concentricity as repeatable end result. That's my business and you can do what you will in your shop.

It is none of your biz that I seek to reach for the highest apple on the tree. Being the creepy stalker that you are I would advise that if you use the self aligning pin config and install a pin utilizing that method that you will not reach the tolerance that is my standard if you indicate on the pin as I have described.

We all know that with flat faces, a pin that is +or- .002 can roll fine without a opposite compound error in the machining of the shaft. I won't describe the details of my shaft concentricity machining standard procedure because your closed mind will doubtless disagree because of your nature.

My post was intended to bring up some food for thought concerning shrinkage to the OP. You and PJ jumped on as malcontents as usual. I have been absent from AZ for 3 years moving across the country and constructing and setting up new shop. I find it amusing that somethings never change. You like to distract to boost you own ego rather than let someone else state a point of view. Good Job!

Some things never do change. And one of those things is your knowledge. You never have reached for the highest apple. In fact I have a pile of rotten apples by my trees that seems to have had a few go missing. Are you reaching for those instead?

I’d be willing to bet you just tried to highjack this thread too. Since the OP was dealing with a burn through issue, and not a shrinkage issue. It seems my bet is a a tad in my favor.
 

whammo57

Kim Walker
Silver Member
Some things never do change. And one of those things is your knowledge. You never have reached for the highest apple. In fact I have a pile of rotten apples by my trees that seems to have had a few go missing. Are you reaching for those instead?

I’d be willing to bet you just tried to highjack this thread too. Since the OP was dealing with a burn through issue, and not a shrinkage issue. It seems my bet is a a tad in my favor.

OMG.................. do people ever stop being nasty ????
 

BarenbruggeCues

Unregistered User
Silver Member
I use a Hardinge Collet chuck lathe with new bearings that runs at Zero TRO. I bore slightly over the center barrel dia. After the epoxy is inserted I indicate the pin 1.1 inches from the face and push my pin to zero 3 to 4 times for the 30 min set time. Yes I am anal about trying to achieve zero. The reality is that only about 1 of ten is zero after curing but they are all within a quarter thou when the epoxy cures completely. That's pretty good concentricity as repeatable end result. That's my business and you can do what you will in your shop.

It is none of your biz that I seek to reach for the highest apple on the tree. Being the creepy stalker that you are I would advise that if you use the self aligning pin config and install a pin utilizing that method that you will not reach the tolerance that is my standard if you indicate on the pin as I have described.

We all know that with flat faces, a pin that is +or- .002 can roll fine without a opposite compound error in the machining of the shaft. I won't describe the details of my shaft concentricity machining standard procedure because your closed mind will doubtless disagree because of your nature.

My post was intended to bring up some food for thought concerning shrinkage to the OP. You and PJ jumped on as malcontents as usual. I have been absent from AZ for 3 years moving across the country and constructing and setting up new shop. I find it amusing that somethings never change. You like to distract to boost you own ego rather than let someone else state a point of view. Good Job!




We can see just exactly how anal you are when this is on the outside of your finished cue build. One can only imagine the work that is done on the inside that is not seen. I believe this was around the same time you were on here asking for help because you couldn't figure out to slice your rings off a billet without burning them up so you were dousing in some type of biodegradable cutting fluid while attempting to extract them.
rickey, there's no shame in coming here asking for help. The problem is every time you did you wanted to argue with ones who were giving you solid advice and now all of a sudden you're an expert in every phase of cue building and have better machines than anyone else.

Oh yea...some food for your thought. I just did an install of 15 pins in butts using an inexpensive Taiwanese lathe with a tight bore on the barrel and they all run out less than .00025 which is probably the difference in the epoxy sealer that may or may not shrink. It's not the machines you have rickey, it's the knowledge you use when operating them.

3 years hasn't been near long enough time of your absence. Why don't you go back to your facebook group and try to explain to them how you do, or in most cases don't do things.
 

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
There are three people on this sub forum that I’d never listen to for advice. Rick is one of them. Would you care to guess the other two?

Don't stop now. You've always been on a roll with NEGATIVE post. Pretty strong for someone with a phony screen name and no cues posted under his belt.
 
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