Custom Cue Lathe - the video (part 1)

Looks like a nice lathe Ben. A second video of the lathe in action would be cool.

Speaking of bowling alleys, they just demolished one not far from my place.
By the time I realized what was going on, I wasn't able to find out whether
the alley wood was salvaged or not. I saw the crane with a large wrecking ball on it and the next day it was crushed. I couldn't see any wood that might have come from the alleys in the rubble. The alley itself had a second floor so there would have been a lot of wood.
Day late and a dollar short as usual.
I once went to a bowling alley and inspected the floor before they tore it down. I could tell the maple flooring had a bunch of sugar lines in it like most straight run maple does, so I passed on the wood. But I did buy three of their Gold Crown tables for $500 each. I sold them for $2900 and had the people I sold them to pick them up from the bowling alley. It was probably the easiest $1400 I ever made.
 
What are you saying is kind of crazy. I am not going to do 100 passes on purpose just to test the lathe out..

If you are just starting out, which I am sure of, then taking that many passes on your stock should be eaisy to do. And yes, I am kind of crazy. I have something that you don't though. I just wonder if you will after 100 or so passes on this setup. Good luck on you new machine. I hope that it does work well.

Jim.
 
Benfica,

I've been following these threads, but not jumping in. I've always used large machine lathes and cnc machines that we have designed and built, but these machines look nice and well made.

I do have a question though. I can't tell, from your video or the pictures I have seen in other threads, how you adjust the cut depth when using the taper attachment. It looks like the machine uses a Taig cross slide or top slide that is spring loaded against the taper template, but I don't see the adjustment for depth of cut.

Nice machine, just curious though. My cnc machines work well for me.

Thanks
 
Benfica,

I've been following these threads, but not jumping in. I've always used large machine lathes and cnc machines that we have designed and built, but these machines look nice and well made.

I do have a question though. I can't tell, from your video or the pictures I have seen in other threads, how you adjust the cut depth when using the taper attachment. It looks like the machine uses a Taig cross slide or top slide that is spring loaded against the taper template, but I don't see the adjustment for depth of cut.

Nice machine, just curious though. My cnc machines work well for me.

Thanks

RBC
The carriage is a modified taig carriage. The dial is removed from the top slide and used as a spring loaded copier for the taper bar, then you got taig compound slide modified and secured over the top slide. Now all you do is adjust you dial on the compound slide ( which on this unit is now your top slide) in order to adjust the depth of your cut.

Also I want to thank Tony for posting this video, I am very great full to have a friend like him and all the other AZ members who has supported my products, this cue building lathe is the tip of the iceberg, there will be couple of new machines coming out soon along with minor improvement changed to my current product line. While keeping the prices fair, quality high, and the best warranty and customer service around.
Best Regards
 
RBC
The carriage is a modified taig carriage. The dial is removed from the top slide and used as a spring loaded copier for the taper bar, then you got taig compound slide modified and secured over the top slide. Now all you do is adjust you dial on the compound slide ( which on this unit is now your top slide) in order to adjust the depth of your cut.

Also I want to thank Tony for posting this video, I am very great full to have a friend like him and all the other AZ members who has supported my products, this cue building lathe is the tip of the iceberg, there will be couple of new machines coming out soon along with minor improvement changed to my current product line. While keeping the prices fair, quality high, and the best warranty and customer service around.
Best Regards


I see it now!

I think I saw a picture earlier that didn't have the compound slide mounted over the top slide.

Thanks!
 
To knock the corners off some 23 inch long wood, I made up a simple plate and guide mounted above the lathe.The sawblade is on centreline and has a stop(screw to stop the saw)so it does not hit the chuck.There is another screw for the back so you can't hit the tailstock.It takes more time to drill a centre and put the part into the lathe, than it does to cut the corners off.I am using a crosscutting blade with my battery skilly.
They come out quite good for what it is.You can also make it a tapered rough cutting by shiming one end higher or lower.The battery saws also have only 5-3/8 diameter blades.The frame sort of straddles the taig type lathe.
Just added for those that want an alternative to ruffing with a router
 
I run my squares through my router table. It has a 1/2" round blade in it & takes about 4 minutes to round off the corners. I love it...JER
 
I just use an old delta jointer for taking off the edges......dial it in....cut alot of shaft at one time....takes 60 seconds to do one shaft square and you can do more after you get going....just did 60 and only took 25 min to cut the corners down into a octaganal.....( 8 sides) and the router loves me for it....it keeps most of the stress of it....tip.....mark your centers before you do this.....use calipers to scribe two center lines....x marks the spot and then use a cheap scribe to make a center hole....do this before you start cutting anything so that when you put it in the lathe it is centered....but thats just the way I do it....maybe better ways....
 
your getting stuff done.....I knew I was doing something wrong...lol. I have 8 inches of snow on the ground here and had to dig my shop door out to even get in....the 15 degree cold isn't helping either...
 
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