Yep. It turns into a "cinch-n-safe" game. The ability to cheat the pocket and play position is part of the game. I'm not advocating buckets but there is a point that pocket size changes the game and not for the better.
4.5" :thumbup:
Yep. It turns into a "cinch-n-safe" game. The ability to cheat the pocket and play position is part of the game. I'm not advocating buckets but there is a point that pocket size changes the game and not for the better.
All quite true.
Anutter thing about uber tight tables is that it changes the nature of the game, as you alluded to. In my travels I have come across some ridiculously tight tables and heard all the talk about how a proper pool table should be set up.
That’s all baloney.
Pool players should be able to use english and work the ball. And, as has already been stated, when the pockets are too tight, that aspect of the game goes out the window.
Lou Figueroa
I agree with the concept of what you are saying here.
However, I think it is actually not the English; players should be able to use pockets to get position. When the pockets are overly tight, one is forced to use English they would/should not normally need when playing the game.
Simply hard to beat a 4.5" pocket
I once took mine to 4.25, it was a fun as a challenge but visitors bit to dial in. However, caught myself using English that I would have never previously needed... the 4.25 didn't not last long.
I agree. Blue-label Diamonds are probably the best all-around table. Tight but not too tight and they bank true.IMO, the diamond "pro-cut" pockets and blue label rails result in a table that is a good compromise for all pool games from one-pocket to straight pool for anyone that is interested in competitive pool. However, that doesn't describe all Diamond tables, nor does it describe all pool players, and even then, not everyone is willing to compromise. I think 8-ball is best on a bar box, straight pool is best on a loose gold crown with slower cloth, rotation games are okay on any table with faster cloth, and one pocket is best on a pro-cut diamond or shimmed gold crown, but I only have room for one table at home, so it's a pro-cut, blue label diamond.
As for the complaints about the pockets, they may seem very unforgiving if you're used to being able to graze the rail a couple diamonds away and still make a ball, but they accept anything hit directly between the points of the pocket at any speed, so I don't think there's anything wrong with them. It just takes some getting used to. All tables play tougher as the cloth gets some wear and if the room is humid, so take that into consideration if you've just moved to a new location/pool hall.
I agree. Blue-label Diamonds are probably the best all-around table. Tight but not too tight and they bank true.
All quite true.
Anutter thing about uber tight tables is that it changes the nature of the game, as you alluded to. In my travels I have come across some ridiculously tight tables and heard all the talk about how a proper pool table should be set up.
That’s all baloney.
Pool players should be able to use english and work the ball. And, as has already been stated, when the pockets are too tight, that aspect of the game goes out the window.
Lou Figueroa
I don't see any difference between GC's and blue-label Diamonds. The only table i've played on that seemed "weird" were the red-label Diamonds. They all banked short. Easily fixed but out-of-the-box they banked short.How do you define true when all previous competition tables banked wider? Is there an exact measurement as to how a table “should” bank? Especially since the last hundred years every table banked differently from the diamond. Seems to me this would mean diamonds bank wrong or different not the other way around.
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I don't see any difference between GC's and blue-label Diamonds. The only table i've played on that seemed "weird" were the red-label Diamonds. They all banked short. Easily fixed but out-of-the-box they banked short.
I don’t believe that they bank the same. But, I respect your opinion.
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That's pretty much exactly what Ray Martin told me at the end of a 14.1 lesson I had with him a few years ago, when I asked him what sized pocket tables I should practice my 14.1 on - 4.75, 4.5 or 4.25 corners pockets - all tables which we have in our room. Without hesitation he said the 4.75 pockets.All quite true.
Anutter thing about uber tight tables is that it changes the nature of the game, as you alluded to. In my travels I have come across some ridiculously tight tables and heard all the talk about how a proper pool table should be set up.
That’s all baloney.
Pool players should be able to use english and work the ball. And, as has already been stated, when the pockets are too tight, that aspect of the game goes out the window.
Lou Figueroa
There isn't a table in existence that I can't miss a easy shot on.
I haven't played on any two tables that bank the same. Even the same table banks differently depending on the conditions, so it's difficult to say what a "true" bank is. Rails that bank at a mirror angle at a particular speed, with a rolling cue ball, and no english using a particular cloth that has a particular amount of wear at a specific relative humidity and temperature will bank differently as soon as you change any of those variables.I don’t believe that they bank the same. But, I respect your opinion.
I haven't played on any two tables that bank the same. Even the same table banks differently depending on the conditions, so it's difficult to say what a "true" bank is. Rails that bank at a mirror angle at a particular speed, with a rolling cue ball, and no english using a particular cloth that has a particular amount of wear at a specific relative humidity and temperature will bank differently as soon as you change any of those variables.
The red label Diamond tables all banked noticeably shorter than Gold Crowns, enough so that Diamond decided it was worth changing the rail profile to produce a more similar response. You still have to make adjustments, but now it's close enough that the bank angles on a Diamond don't come a complete surprise to players that have spent most of their time on a Gold Crown.
What do you mean "about right"? That they won't run a rack more than once in maybe 10 games? Above 4 1/2" is too easy for B players? :rotflmao1: Let's do a little experiment. You find yourself a B- player and let him play a race to 20 games against the pro ghost (ghost without ball in hand) in 10 ball on a Diamond league cut (since you only got Diamonds over there apparantly). Now, lets see how many games he gets. I'd be surprised if he even got 5....Winning would be pure Science fiction, even at 9 ball with the same rules.
Too easy would imply that they're stringing racks, regularly. That aint happening. Above or exactly 4.5 inch pockets are too easy for THE PROS and SEMI PROS. Nobody else. I'm not seeing all that many 5 and 6 packs from even A-players on "easy" equipment.
They don't.
Two different cushions. Superspeed and Artemis.
Superspeed bank better as the cloth wears.
Artemis , imo, no.
What do you mean "about right"? That they won't run a rack more than once in maybe 10 games? Above 4 1/2" is too easy for B players? :rotflmao1: Let's do a little experiment. You find yourself a B- player and let him play a race to 20 games against the pro ghost (ghost without ball in hand) in 10 ball on a Diamond league cut (since you only got Diamonds over there apparantly). Now, lets see how many games he gets. I'd be surprised if he even got 5....Winning would be pure Science fiction, even at 9 ball with the same rules.
Too easy would imply that they're stringing racks, regularly. That aint happening. Above or exactly 4.5 inch pockets are too easy for THE PROS and SEMI PROS. Nobody else. I'm not seeing all that many 5 and 6 packs from even A-players on "easy" equipment.