hey chris i did call atlas they said i can send it back for refund ? but that doesnt help resolve problem,
whamo:no one said it had to have threads just trying something differrent
todd: thanks for suggestion have already tryed that size and other sizes
OK here goes.....Not to say that by some odd chance someone couldn't just get a bad one from the get go, although It's doubtful. If You have unique Dia then there is a learning curve as with most of the same type/design. I went through It as well as many others I know of. For me I got the hang of It fairly quickly. I have one that I have probably threaded easily over 500 ferrules with, so many that I can't really say for sure, But the numbers are up there. It still works, and I don't really have any issues like that. It takes practice as suggested and The more the better.When You finally figure It out, You should know which methods work best for You, because what works for one person may not work as well as something else would for another person.
Between what I have read here and in the previous thread about this subject, most of what I do Is covered. Still yet there are many things that most of us probably figured out on our own, many of which Might be easier for someone to comprehend By seeing in person, or through practice then through someone's description.
Assuming that most of the other info You have received has been tried already, I will try to elaborate on a few things that may have or may not been mentioned already, but some things I do that may make a difference when I'm having an issue. My method is different then others. I have seen people have success, turning the lathe on, and spinning the threads all in one go. for me that didn't work so well.
If You haven't tried what Todd mentioned, then take another look at It and read better, don't get too focused on dialing the diameter absolutely perfect, because although important to the operation, the other things he mentioned may be more relevant for where You are at in trying to figure it out. For me the other things that he mentioned are more important. What can happen with these, is that even though It is a compression dia, there are actually pieces of wood that are still being cut, or ripped. A couple of things can happen due to this... First off, if too big of a piece comes off the lead threads it can get jammed in the threads that you just cut, and if You force It You toast the threads. what I'm saying is feel is everything, you have to learn to feel this happening before It does, back off and use the slits to blow the debris out, Pay particular attention to that part, because It can strip threads just as fast as sizing the tenon wrong. When I use this tool, I will do this several times before reaching the end of the threads. Sometimes I may even back all the way off, clean the threads better, maybe even wax them again, restart the threader, until I feel it starting to bind, then do It again. I don't really recommend backing all the way off then restarting like me though because It requires an even more sensitive feel to prevent stripping the threads while restarting them. I have a method where I actually turn the threader the opposite way until I feel It drop in, then I sort of loosely restart the threader, again one of those things better seen or acquired through practice, then be described in a forum, so that's about the best way I could explain.
The bore in the back of the threader comes in handy for me. I don't even Mic the diameter of the tenon, I just use that hole as a bore gauge, much faster IMO. Fitting the tenon too snug to It, can produce some issues, as well as too loose can.If the tenon slides in fairly easily and isn't too sloppy then that should be close enough.
Another thing I use the back bore for is I mount a piece of round bar in My tail stock that fits In It, and that slides up in there aiding with the alignment process. That doesn't need to be too snug either, actually better if It is not.
There's a champer at the start of the threads of the threader, You can slightly bevel the end of the tenon to match that, and if measured correctly you can always come back and face that off without loosing too much material. That can aid in starting or restarting the threader.
This could go on and on, and some of what I mentioned is to try and help to produce success, more then speed. Once You get the basic feel, and get a few successful attempts under Your belt, It can be done faster without all the steps I mentioned. Really what It comes down to is practice though.
Oh and I don't use the tommy bar. I use It on one of Chris's lathes, so I just grip the threader, and turn the headstock by hand. I have good feel and control that way. Can go forward or back out on a dime if a feel trouble coming. Good Luck With It hope It works out for ya.
I wondered the same thing......
