Difference in "Blue Diamond" and "Red Diamond" pro-am tables

TKS PIZZA said:
So what your saying is they'll play more like a Brunswick.
Click to expand...

Trust me, Mark Gregory and I make a living building out rails to play as close to perfect as we can, and that includes Brunswick's. The dimensions we use are neither Brunswick, or Diamond's. They're the results of many years of research and development on both our parts, and a lot of support from Diamond. There isn't a table manufacture on the market today that I'm aware of that uses the same sub-rail dimensions Diamond is using today, not even Brunswick. Problem is I'm so busy it's hard for me to get around the country like I use to, so Mark is a great choice for a mechanic to send rails to for work done, I don't have any tricks up my sleeves that Mark don't know about, in fact he puts a little more over kill into the rails he calibrates than I have time for, which makes his work pretty much untouchable by anyone in this country, including myself...LOL

Glen
 
realkingcobra said:
With Diamonds older designed rails, when a ball grazes the rail on the way into a pocket, it pickes up more than usuall spin off the rail, spin that is spinning in the opposite direction to fall, meaning the ball is trying to spin out of the pocket when the ball comes into contact with fhe pocket facing. With the newer rail design, the when the object ball grazes the rail on tbe way to the pocket, the spin transfer is more of a top spin/follow english which allows the ball to drop more naturally with pocket speed...deeper into the back of the pocket, meaming less pocket rejection.
Click to expand...

Good explanation Glen. Spin is not the same as deflection.

Thanks:thumbup2:

JC
 
Rail rebuilt the right way

realkingcobra said:
Trust me, Mark Gregory and I make a living building out rails to play as close to perfect as we can, and that includes Brunswick's. The dimensions we use are neither Brunswick, or Diamond's. They're the results of many years of research and development on both our parts, and a lot of support from Diamond. There isn't a table manufacture on the market today that I'm aware of that uses the same sub-rail dimensions Diamond is using today, not even Brunswick. Problem is I'm so busy it's hard for me to get around the country like I use to, so Mark is a great choice for a mechanic to send rails to for work done, I don't have any tricks up my sleeves that Mark don't know about, in fact he puts a little more over kill into the rails he calibrates than I have time for, which makes his work pretty much untouchable by anyone in this country, including myself...LOL

Glen
Click to expand...
-
-
Period.
Rob.M
 
I got some good "reject" shots in slow motion (high speed) tonight. I'll throw something together and get it online this weekend.
 
Sorry if I am off subject but is there a simple way to know if your playing on a red or blue diamond or how it is set up?

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
 
tryin2playagain said:
Sorry if I am off subject but is there a simple way to know if your playing on a red or blue diamond or how it is set up?

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...

No problem. When we refer to Red or Blue, we are referring to the color of the Diamond label that is located in the middle of the foot rail. Mine, for example, is a Red:

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1367305415.991372.jpg

My understanding is that there were also one or more minor design changes (pocket cut / facing angles) that don't necessarily coincide with the red/blue label.

99% of Diamonds have probably not had any major alterations to their original rails. Chances are that if Glen (RealKingCobra) or one of his buddies upgraded the rails, you would hear about it from the table owner. :)
 
I play on my blue diamond 8" pro am everyday. Some observations I have about the table are interesting. I have had the pockets tightened twice, and I'm going to have it done again. The angle of these pockets are so much different than the other two standard tables we have around here. Namely Brunswick and Valley. The angle of the Diamond table just accepts balls in a unique way. I'm not saying its bad, but it takes a second to adjust on a different table. Also don't hit the balls too hard. The back of the pocket is hard and shaped to create a little ramp, so if you fire at it, it will pop straight out of the back and onto the floor. But yes, if you are good at rolling balls in, because you get a correct angle consistently, you can miss pretty far up the rail and it still goes in. Maybe more so than any other table Ive ever played on. I know every table plays different, but hearing surprised commentators never gets old. I just think to myself...Oh they must not play on them everyday.
 
APA BRIAN said:
I play on my blue diamond 8" pro am everyday. Some observations I have about the table are interesting. I have had the pockets tightened twice, and I'm going to have it done again. The angle of these pockets are so much different than the other two standard tables we have around here. Namely Brunswick and Valley. The angle of the Diamond table just accepts balls in a unique way. I'm not saying its bad, but it takes a second to adjust on a different table. Also don't hit the balls too hard. The back of the pocket is hard and shaped to create a little ramp, so if you fire at it, it will pop straight out of the back and onto the floor. But yes, if you are good at rolling balls in, because you get a correct angle consistently, you can miss pretty far up the rail and it still goes in. Maybe more so than any other table Ive ever played on. I know every table plays different, but hearing surprised commentators never gets old. I just think to myself...Oh they must not play on them everyday.
Click to expand...

This doesn't sound like any diamond I have ever played on including my own...

:cool:
 
Have to say, I like the old Diamond tables better and also a well setup GC. I played on a blue label table, was tough to control speed and the angle of the pockets needed a different approach angle on shots, you needed to aim a few extra degrees towards the center of the pocket than on a GC.

Rails bounced out a bit too much, forcing me to either play an extra rail for shape, or hit it soft, too much like rolling the ball in. Took over a dozen games to get the speed down enough to actually stay in line, had to baby a lot of shots.

I played on a GC with the exact same pocket size and pretty new cloth, and the position and aim was more natural.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top