If that happens then I would be inclined to think you used a little excess glue. 1 small drop should be plenty. I use 1 small drop of regular Krazy Glue spread evenly on the ferrule and have never had a problem.
Difference in tip glue
- Thread starter TheThaiger
- Start date
If that happens then I would be inclined to think you used a little excess glue. 1 small drop should be plenty. I use 1 small drop of regular Krazy Glue spread evenly on the ferrule and have never had a problem.
I personally like and exclusively use 2-part epoxy, and not the quick-drying kind either. I like it because even after setting up for 24 hours, it still has a bit of tackiness on the outside surfaces which I find to be a plus in keeping the tip permanently bonded to the ferrule. I've seen some tips pop right off in cold weather conditions (when cues were left in cars), but I've not had one single tip (outside of White Diamonds) ever come off one of my cues or any of the many tip jobs I've done for friends.
I am going to try Gorilla Glue on the next White Diamond I install though.
Maniac
I am going to try Gorilla Glue on the next White Diamond I install though.
Maniac
Hahaha, you're funny Jim.
Of course we stare, everything is flat, absolutely nothing to look at.
Of course we stare, everything is flat, absolutely nothing to look at.
I still use Tweeten 10 minute cement. I imagine I have about 5 years worth left in the tube. I've never lost a tip, and plenty of time to position it. I wonder what new "miracle" glue will be out there when I finally need to buy some more. From what I read on the board, I'm the only one in the World still using it. Maybe I can get a discount next time I buy some. LOL
Used superglue gel for a while. Now tried the tweeten again. It is easier to work with tweeten -- less messy (easier to clean) and more time to center the tip. It does take longer than superglue, but what is the hurry? :grin: I never tried epoxy -- always thought that it is too brittle for that application. Also, I never thought of epoxy as glue -- in my eyes it is more of a gap filler...
The "brittle" part is what drove me to Gorilla Glue. Sometimes, with a new shaft or new cue, I may try 2-3 tips before I find just the right feel. Any superglue I tried was always a pain to cut off clean, since the glue was harder than the shaft. I'd nick the ferrule and have to turn it a bit to get a fresh, flat surface for the next tip. Using GG, I can get a clean cut, which minimizes ferrule refacing.
Bill
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glue
I agree, this is the best that I have used. The only time that I had tips come off was when I used the loc tite Gell. Maybe I just had bad luck. butterflycues
I thought you were talking about the Gorilla super glue. That is what I use. Sorry
I agree, this is the best that I have used. The only time that I had tips come off was when I used the loc tite Gell. Maybe I just had bad luck. butterflycues
I thought you were talking about the Gorilla super glue. That is what I use. Sorry
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Yes, at $55 a bottle I hope so.
Secaucus Fats
Banned
I've been installing tips and ferrules on cues for a few years and I've always used either Duro Super Gel or Loctite Super Gel. In over six years I've only had one tip pop off and that was on a cheap Chinese cue with some kind of crappy plastic ferrule material. I replaced the ferrule, installed another tip, and the guy never had a problem with the tip popping off again.
Sawtex, Gorilla glue and superglue are 2 totally different glues. Super glues are of a Cyanoactylate base. Gorilla glue is a polyurethane base. They cure similarly (AKA water) but are chemicaly different.
Gorilla glue is a very powerful glue if used properly. Water is needed to kick it off. So dampen both surfaces before applying you're tip. A tip clamp is a must. When a polyurethane glue kicks off it will foam. It can lift the tip from the ferrule if not firmly held down. You need to protect the ferrule as the foam is next to impossible to remove completely from any surface it contacts, even hands. Gloves should be worn when using it. Unless you like brown stains on your hands for several weeks(go ahead and ask me how I know that). So it can stain almost anything. It is very good at sticking most anything to anything. But it must be used properly. Cure time is overnight to 24 hours depending on materials joined.
Cyanoacryates or CA use water or certain other chemicals to kick it off. The thicker the CA the longer work time you have. It does not form a chemical bond. It instead forms a mechanical bond. It wicks into small imperfections and cracks in the surfaces to be joined. It works best on porous surfaces, wood especially. The thinner the glue the less working time. All CA's are in fact fairly brittle. But if the glue is not exposed to shear and heavy shock loads it is fine. Working time is a few seconds to about 2 minuits. Set time is about an hour and 24 hours to full strength. Thinner glues you should protect the shaft and ferrule with tape.
CA if thin enough will indeed wick into the tip and possibly harden it. GG will not. If used correctly either glue will work just fine. CA and GG will not like an oily plastic ferrule like you find on cheap cues.
I also fly radio control airplanes. Have been for over 25 years. I have used about every kind of glue out there at one time or another. I build from kits or scratch. So I have learned quite a bit about glues. I even researched each type of glue to get the best results from them.
One final note of caution. CA's are a severe respritory irratant. use them only in a very well ventilated area. Continual use of them with out proper ventilation can lead to severe allergic reactions to them. So please use with caution.
I hope this helps some.
Mark Shuman
Gorilla glue is a very powerful glue if used properly. Water is needed to kick it off. So dampen both surfaces before applying you're tip. A tip clamp is a must. When a polyurethane glue kicks off it will foam. It can lift the tip from the ferrule if not firmly held down. You need to protect the ferrule as the foam is next to impossible to remove completely from any surface it contacts, even hands. Gloves should be worn when using it. Unless you like brown stains on your hands for several weeks(go ahead and ask me how I know that). So it can stain almost anything. It is very good at sticking most anything to anything. But it must be used properly. Cure time is overnight to 24 hours depending on materials joined.
Cyanoacryates or CA use water or certain other chemicals to kick it off. The thicker the CA the longer work time you have. It does not form a chemical bond. It instead forms a mechanical bond. It wicks into small imperfections and cracks in the surfaces to be joined. It works best on porous surfaces, wood especially. The thinner the glue the less working time. All CA's are in fact fairly brittle. But if the glue is not exposed to shear and heavy shock loads it is fine. Working time is a few seconds to about 2 minuits. Set time is about an hour and 24 hours to full strength. Thinner glues you should protect the shaft and ferrule with tape.
CA if thin enough will indeed wick into the tip and possibly harden it. GG will not. If used correctly either glue will work just fine. CA and GG will not like an oily plastic ferrule like you find on cheap cues.
I also fly radio control airplanes. Have been for over 25 years. I have used about every kind of glue out there at one time or another. I build from kits or scratch. So I have learned quite a bit about glues. I even researched each type of glue to get the best results from them.
One final note of caution. CA's are a severe respritory irratant. use them only in a very well ventilated area. Continual use of them with out proper ventilation can lead to severe allergic reactions to them. So please use with caution.
I hope this helps some.
Mark Shuman
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TheThaiger
Banned
Thanks - very helpful.
You say CA will wick and soak into the tip - does that apply to gel and ordinary super glue equally?
Also, what's the best method for getting glue off a ferrule - the top of, I mean? I've always been able to scrap if off with a stanley knife, but I've some on my pred that isn't shifting. I take it professional tip installers have tools to do it safely?
All CA's will wick to some extent. It's how they work. But with a gel there will be very minimal wicking. Gel is what I would use. BTW, Zap, Bob Smith and Mercury are the 3 best out there from my personal experience. I like Zap the best. Most consistant and always perfect. BTW when you open it. Reseal it and keep it in the freezer to give it the longest shelf life. CA has a shelf life.
To clean the ferrule they make CA debonder. You can use acetone or even fingernail polish remover. You just need to be careful to keep it away from the glue joint as to not soften the new joint. Clean it as soon as possible after application. You can get any of the above products in a well stocked hobby shop. Or online if you can't find one locally.
Mark Shuman
To clean the ferrule they make CA debonder. You can use acetone or even fingernail polish remover. You just need to be careful to keep it away from the glue joint as to not soften the new joint. Clean it as soon as possible after application. You can get any of the above products in a well stocked hobby shop. Or online if you can't find one locally.
Mark Shuman
I use a concoction of all the different glues mentioned here. I just put it all together in a Tupperware bowl. Then I place the tip in the bowl and stir the whole mess up with the cue shaft that needs the tip
. When this mix is done fizzing and popping it is time use the shaft to chase the well soaked tip up the side of the bowl and onto the work bench. You will not have much time once the tip hits the bench so get it centered ASAP.
No clamping is nessicery.....I tried it once but still have one of those silly aluminum clamps stuck to my main player:angry:.
When you are done simply place the lid on the Tupperware bowl and burp it so you will be ready for next time.
. When this mix is done fizzing and popping it is time use the shaft to chase the well soaked tip up the side of the bowl and onto the work bench. You will not have much time once the tip hits the bench so get it centered ASAP.No clamping is nessicery.....I tried it once but still have one of those silly aluminum clamps stuck to my main player:angry:.
When you are done simply place the lid on the Tupperware bowl and burp it so you will be ready for next time.