Dime,,, it's prettier and worth more.
My experience is the same, but I think it's because a too-flat tip hits on its edge at maximum spin and doesn't get enough surface contact for maximum friction. There may be something to getting more power by hitting closer to center of the tip, but I doubt you can get much closer when hitting maximum spin.PJ....there are certain power spin shots I can’t do with a tip that‘s too flat.
The hit of a round tip means the force of the shot is closer to the center of the shaft....for the power.
...you might be able to express this better...whether you agree or not.
I only know it by experience...I can do that Jimmy Moore/Mike Massey draw shot down the rail...
...if somebody hands me their cue to see the shot, I look at their tip...if it’s too flat, I can’t do it.
A penny makes no cents, bob.Why does the penny never get any respect?![]()
Based on that theory that a tip’s radius should match the radius of the cue ball for maximum tip / cue ball contact, wouldn’t that mean the tip’s radius would be that of a cue ball’s radius, which is way flatter than any coin, even a silver dollar?Years ago somebody pointed out that the closer the radius of a tip is to the radial arc of the surface of a cue ball, the better the contact/grip it is. For most sizes of tips that's a nickel. I don't know, but I've always had better results from a nickel radius. I also learned to quit grinding my tip to try and keep a specific radius, the chalking action and the thousands of impacts your tip takes will keep your tip in an optimal radius that fits how you're hitting the ball. Once a tip gets "seasoned" during play, it keeps that same radius for me throughout its life.
Yes, that's true. For more reasons a radius that size won't work, see my reply in post #9.Based on that theory that a tip’s radius should match the radius of the cue ball for maximum tip / cue ball contact, wouldn’t that mean the tip’s radius would be that of a cue ball’s radius, which is way flatter than any coin, even a silver dollar?
As I kind of mentioned above, a flat tip will have more contact area than with equal radii. Maximum contact is achieved if the tip has a negative radius equal to the radius of the ball -- a cupped/concave tip -- so that the entire surface of the tip comes in contact with the ball. You don't want maximum contact.Based on that theory that a tip’s radius should match the radius of the cue ball for maximum tip / cue ball contact, ...
You'd have to hit it so perfectly, I think that would make straight shots almost impossible. I'd go with flat and wide.What if we had a convex tip that matched the radius of the ball, would that be the one to use for the straightest shots?
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