Draw by bending your shaft

i need to take an english class

the square pool cue was a one piece cue, it was appx 1.25 at the butt and appx 1/2 inch at the tip. it was made from a piece of barnwood. just imagine a bar cue, but being square not round. the edges were rounded as not to cut your hand, and the closer to the ferrule the more round the cue became. it had a round ferrule and tip.
 
I also refer to the center of the shaft, when determnig 'straightness' of a given shaft.

Not a loaded question, but does a bend in the middle of the shaft make a difference in playability? I have a lotta shafts and can count on a nub the none I have that are perfectly straight down their length, using theie outer circumferences as measuring points.
 
I find the thinner a shaft is in the middle the more a shaft will
buckle on shots you have to pound in or jack up on.
 
your knowledge of pool cue definitions, boggles the mind, as you are once again wrong about the definition of taper roll.
i would also suggest you not get into a battle of wit's with me as you seem to to be only 1/2 prepared.


Technically, there currently is no definition for "Taper roll", but the one I gave previously,is the same as the 1 you gave,only you masked it with more words , and to think you attempted to discredit my definition :lmao: .. A battle of wits with yourself is a battle that is won relatively easily.. :boring:
 
With a good stroke you can get the same action you are describing without bending the shaft on the table. The pros do it easily and you never see their shafts bend, even on the most dramatic draw shots. Mike masses super draw shot that is on you tube does not include it, so I would suggest that it is unnecessary, and would work on a level stroke with good follow through
 
Mike does a great job demonstrating the truth, and pointing out some of the myths surrounding draw.

Hey zpele...Can you post a video of you drawing 16 diamonds using this technique? I'd be interested to see it.

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

"...It is important to distinguish between rolling friction and sliding friction. The two affect the cue ball in different ways and they are sometimes misunderstood. Sliding friction relates to the force from the cue ball sliding on the cloth. It causes draw to wear off and it allows draw or follow to take effect after the cue ball hits the object ball. Sliding friction can be reduced by getting new (slippery) cloth and by waxing the cue ball. Waxing is an easy experiment to do, and I recommend it to anyone who hasn't tried it yet...."


http://billiards.colostate.edu/threads/draw.html#cloth
 
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