Elkmaster question?

how can you pick out the "good" ones?

Is there a difference?

I've heard lots of 'discussion' about the variation in Le Pros
and in Triangles - but the concept of a good vs bad Elkmaster
is new to me.

How is a bad one different from a good one anyway?

FWIW - it takes monts of normal play, plus trimming and re-shaping
to get an Elkmaster to the point where it plays the way those who
like them prefer.

Dale
 
The main difference is that hardness is not same for all of them. So it is upto indvidual taste how hard or soft you like them. you can press with your finger or also nail and determine the hardness you like. pressing them in the vice can alter the hardness per your liking, but you have to know how much pressure to put. If you dip the cue in the milk and press it will become a milk dud tip.

All tips are good, you have to determine how hard or soft you like them:cool:
 
If you want a soft hitting tip, you get an Elkmaster. It you press them, you will get a harder hitting tip. That's not why you picked an Elkmaster, in the 1st place. As far as trimming & reshaping, It's not necessary. Cut them flush with the ferrule, wet the edge with ammonia, burnish & coat the edge with super glue gel. Then shape the top. I have been playing with one for 4 months, 8-10 hours a week. I have only shaped the tip once, only because it became too hard...JER
 
That sounds like a good way of telling. That and applying a touch of CA to the side.

Pressing them in a vice probably won't help as I had 2 Milk Duds accordian on me a week ago. If they're bad, they're bad no matter what.
 
elkmasters

I like the ones with the smoothest backs. after cutting them down to ferule size with a blade drag, i shape the tip by moistening the front of it, so i get a smoother cut as opposed to ripping the coarser leather.
 
If you want a soft hitting tip, you get an Elkmaster. It you press them, you will get a harder hitting tip. That's not why you picked an Elkmaster, in the 1st place. As far as trimming & reshaping, It's not necessary. Cut them flush with the ferrule, wet the edge with ammonia, burnish & coat the edge with super glue gel. Then shape the top. I have been playing with one for 4 months, 8-10 hours a week. I have only shaped the tip once, only because it became too hard...JER

I doubt this will get the performance I was refering to - I wouldn't use a "new" Elkmaster if you held a gun to my head.
But, if you pound them down and trim and reshape - a not just necessary,
but vital part of preparing the tip - you get a tuff and resilient tip.

Tho still, not my personal tip of choice.

Dale
 
Dale; I think we just have to repectfully disagree. I live in an area where the Elkmaster is the prefered tip. Like I said I have one on my playing cue, that is over 4 months old. I break with it & play with it. It has an Ivory ferrule & It is a $1500- 7 year old cue. That cue has seen all 13 tips, that I stock. I waffle between tips & the last 4 months has been with the Elkmaster. I don't see the mushrooming, that is often accredited to soft tips. Burnish & coat the edge with the gel. What can I say it works for me & about 1000 retips here, a year. I do about 2000 retips a year...JER
 
Dale; I think we just have to repectfully disagree. I live in an area where the Elkmaster is the prefered tip. Like I said I have one on my playing cue, that is over 4 months old. I break with it & play with it. It has an Ivory ferrule & It is a $1500- 7 year old cue. That cue has seen all 13 tips, that I stock. I waffle between tips & the last 4 months has been with the Elkmaster. I don't see the mushrooming, that is often accredited to soft tips. Burnish & coat the edge with the gel. What can I say it works for me & about 1000 retips here, a year. I do about 2000 retips a year...JER

Imtimating as it may be to argue with some one who uses the
Royal "we", you are arguing apples and oranges.

I am quite aware of the legions of players who like Elks straight
out of the box - you would seem to be blissfuly unaware
of the people who prefer a hardend Elk.

Once again - you don't disagree with me, all of you are talking
about something other than what I am talking about and have been
for the decades I've been sticking Elkmasters on cues.

Dale
 
I still install several Elks here in NC also, although not as many as years in past. By far I install more Moori's, then LePro, and Triangle. I shot with an Elk for many years but when I played with my first Moori there was no turning back for me. Elks are fine for those who prefer them. After all, that's why they make so many brands. So we can all get what we like. I will be trying the CA on the edge though. I have had several Elks "blowout" on me while trimming. Thanks for the info.
 
Dale; I think we just have to repectfully disagree. I live in an area where the Elkmaster is the prefered tip. Like I said I have one on my playing cue, that is over 4 months old. I break with it & play with it. It has an Ivory ferrule & It is a $1500- 7 year old cue. That cue has seen all 13 tips, that I stock. I waffle between tips & the last 4 months has been with the Elkmaster. I don't see the mushrooming, that is often accredited to soft tips. Burnish & coat the edge with the gel. What can I say it works for me & about 1000 retips here, a year. I do about 2000 retips a year...JER

Jer

tableman made a good point

"I will be trying the CA on the edge though. I have had several Elks "blowout" on me while trimming. Thanks for the info."
..............................................................................................

Perhaps I should apologise for obsessing so much on claifying
and re-clairifying my point and failing to acknowledge the value
of your technique:)

After 4 months of play, does the tip seem to be any firmmer?
Have you used any, or gotten any feedback from players who have,
say a year or two, if the feel changes over time.

Dale
 
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